By Robin Bhattacharyya
Betta fish are beautiful freshwater fish that come in a variety of spectacular colors. They make great aquarium fish for numerous reasons such as being inexpensive to keep and straightforward to care for. Like any pet however, a proper system of care is essential for good health and well-being.
Background
Also known as Siamese Fighting fish, Bettas are one of the best-known types of aquarium fish. They originate in Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Vietnam and certain areas of China and are usually found in shallow waters such as rice paddies and shallow ponds.
Betta fish generally live for two or three years. Unlike most fish they breathe by going up to the surface of the water for air. This makes them quite easy to care for because their tank doesn't need an air pump, filtration or aeration.
Tank and Water
Bettas do well in bowls - a large aquarium isn't necessary. However, do make sure the jar or bowl that you keep your Betta in is large enough for him to swim around in easily without bumping his fins or scales. Also be sure there is plenty of surface area so that he can get enough air, and make sure to keep the water clean.
Keep the tank or bowl in a warm spot - Bettas are tropical fish. The temperature should be around 75 to 80 degrees. Make sure not to put the bowl in either direct sunlight or a drafty spot.
Change out one third of your Betta's water every three days. Use "aged" tap water, which is water that has been set out for twenty four hours. Make sure it's the same temperature as the water in the tank and use a product that removes chlorine as well.
*Important: Never use a fish net to catch your Betta when doing water changes. Their fins are very delicate and can easily get caught and ripped in the fiber of the net.
It's also a good idea to keep a lid on your Betta's bowl because they can actually jump out. Just make sure the lid has holes so fresh air can get in. Depending on space, keep one or more live plants in the fish bowl as well: Bettas like to rest on leaves. There is a special aquarium plant called "Betta Bulbs" available. Set the plant(s) in gravel, and be sure to keep the gravel clean to avoid unsanitary tank conditions.
Tank Mates and Other Species
Make sure not to keep two male Bettas in a tank together because they will fight to the death. They don't call them Siamese Fighting fish for nothing! Females, however, can be kept together. You can also keep both male and female Bettas with other non-aggressive fish species, but don't combine them with any aggressive species or you might have a fight on your hands! Bettas can be safely coupled with species such as guppies, algae eaters or corydorus catfish.
Feeding
Bettas must be fed once a day. Make sure you don't overfeed them, and don't leave any uneaten food in the bowl. They can be fed freeze dried brine shrimp or freeze dried blood worms. They don't usually like worm cubes or flake food though. Check your pet store for Betta food; there are many kinds available, and Bettas will happily eat most of them. However, they like live foods such as live brine shrimp the best. For this reason, a recommended part of Betta fish care is to treat your fish to some live food every now and then. It's fun watching them catch and eat it!
Don't leave any uneaten food in the water. After feeding, use a turkey baster to clean small particles of uneaten food or debris from the bottom of your Betta's bowl. If you don't, the water will become cloudy and unsanitary - it will smell bad and be very unhealthy for the fish too!
Summary
With Betta fish care, always remember that fish are living, breathing creatures just like any other pet. It's your responsibility to feed and care for your Betta and make sure he has a good environment to live in, just as you would a dog or cat. If you follow a good system of care requirements, starting with the tips in this article, your fish will be healthy and happy and will add movement and color wherever you keep them!
Need more resources? Go to my website at www.robjam.com and click on "Betta Fish Care" to learn about a great system for caring for your Betta fish!
Robin Bhattacharyya is a writer, entrepreneur, webmaster and "student of life" based in Victoria, British Columbia, Canada. He writes on a wide variety of subjects.
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Friday, December 21, 2007
A Vital Factor When Caring For Gold Fish Is Knowing Whether Something Is Hot, Warm Or Cold
By Emma Jardini
Here's a quick science lesson, that's relevant to caring for gold fish.
You may remember the concept of thermal expansion. Perhaps you're very familiar with it, even if you learned about it a long time ago.
I won't go into detail, but it is the effect where a substance expands as it gets hot.
If you remember science experiments the same way I do, the most interesting bit was always what happened when the substance was suddenly cooled (thermal contraction) by quenching in water.
The really hot material showed strong reaction as it hit the icy liquid, there and then being misshapen by the rapid cooling.
Now, I am not suggesting that gold fish are just like pieces of hot metal.
It just seems to me, this shared science memory may drive home my point. This is simply that gold fish, like any substance, find it hard to withstand dramatic temperature falls.
Any expert in caring for gold fish, would tell you to be wary of the water temperature in the gold fish aquarium, if you've just cleaned it out, or if you are about to put a new fish into the tank.
Why? Well, is it likely that your tap water is at room temperature? Or that the gold fish tank's temperature is the same as the tank at the pet store? No, to both questions.
And if the difference between the temperatures is too big, it's likely that the fish will not only suffer, but die.
Gold fish are actually quite tolerant of different temperatures, if it's fairly constant. It has been shown that some fish can live when it's so cold that ice floats in the water, and others will live in water at above 80 degrees Fahrenheit for decades.
The actual temperature is not so important - they can tolerate the warm and cold, as long as it is generally unvarying.
However, sudden warming or cooling is quite different and will harm gold fish very easily.
What does all this mean? It's clear. Looking after gold fish is just a tad more complicated than you might have thought.
Don't worry too much however. Keeping track of the temperature isn't that hard. All it takes is presence of mind and some practice.
And every time you work at it, you will move one step closer to being an expert at caring for gold fish, even if your science knowledge is a little rusty!
Get more information and guidance on caring for goldfish at: CareOfGoldFish.blogspot.com
Here's a quick science lesson, that's relevant to caring for gold fish.
You may remember the concept of thermal expansion. Perhaps you're very familiar with it, even if you learned about it a long time ago.
I won't go into detail, but it is the effect where a substance expands as it gets hot.
If you remember science experiments the same way I do, the most interesting bit was always what happened when the substance was suddenly cooled (thermal contraction) by quenching in water.
The really hot material showed strong reaction as it hit the icy liquid, there and then being misshapen by the rapid cooling.
Now, I am not suggesting that gold fish are just like pieces of hot metal.
It just seems to me, this shared science memory may drive home my point. This is simply that gold fish, like any substance, find it hard to withstand dramatic temperature falls.
Any expert in caring for gold fish, would tell you to be wary of the water temperature in the gold fish aquarium, if you've just cleaned it out, or if you are about to put a new fish into the tank.
Why? Well, is it likely that your tap water is at room temperature? Or that the gold fish tank's temperature is the same as the tank at the pet store? No, to both questions.
And if the difference between the temperatures is too big, it's likely that the fish will not only suffer, but die.
Gold fish are actually quite tolerant of different temperatures, if it's fairly constant. It has been shown that some fish can live when it's so cold that ice floats in the water, and others will live in water at above 80 degrees Fahrenheit for decades.
The actual temperature is not so important - they can tolerate the warm and cold, as long as it is generally unvarying.
However, sudden warming or cooling is quite different and will harm gold fish very easily.
What does all this mean? It's clear. Looking after gold fish is just a tad more complicated than you might have thought.
Don't worry too much however. Keeping track of the temperature isn't that hard. All it takes is presence of mind and some practice.
And every time you work at it, you will move one step closer to being an expert at caring for gold fish, even if your science knowledge is a little rusty!
Get more information and guidance on caring for goldfish at: CareOfGoldFish.blogspot.com
Saturday, December 15, 2007
How to Control Algae in Your Aquarium
By Richard Gilliland
It is impossible to eliminate algae altogether, and you should not be frustrated by the persistent nature of algae to accumulate. What you can do is control the condition under which plant life and fish thrives and algae does not. First, how much light are you allowing into your tank area? If you have light for more than ten hours a day, you are assisting algae grow in your tank, so don't keep the lights on 24-7. You can purchase algae eating fish if that would fit with your aquarium's motif. Some fish types that consume algae are three breeds of suckermouth catfish, the Ancistrus, Peckoltia, and Otocinlus. In addition, the Siamese Algae Eater, Crossocheilus siamensis is a great choice for controlling the algae in your tank. If you have a large tank, then the Common Plec is a good choice as well. But they are aggressive fish and do grow to huge size. Saltwater fish that are excellent for algae consumption are most tangs/surgeon fish, or any grazer.
The next step in controlling algae is to consistently change the water itself. By doing this, you are controlling the nutrient levels in the tank, which is crucial. Controlling nitrates, phosphates, and silicates are especially important. Another thing to look for is how you are controlling the iron in the tank. You can include different kinds of plants in your setup so they will compete for iron and other nutrients algae feeds off of in order to how a low opportunity for algae to survive.
Your first battle is likely to be with brown algae, or diatoms, because it appears first by siphoning silicon from the new aquarium tank itself, and unlike other stages of algae, it is unaffected by low lighting levels, so controlling light will not stop it from thriving. You can effectively combat it by changing water and gravel often. Diatoms thrive in conditions where phosphate is low and silicon is high, and this is generally what your scenario will be when you first start your aquarium. As time progresses and the environment changes, brown algae is usually replaced by green algae, because green algae thrives in a higher phosphate environment.
Green algae is apparently delicious and the best way to get rid of it is to bring in those algae eating catish and/or Siamese. Combined with keeping your aquarium only lit for a maximum of ten hours a day and simple manual removal of clumps of green algae, you can control what is typically the most usual and common algae growth in your aquarium.
Red Algae, or Brush, is a real problem because it is difficult to remove manually and most fish won't eat it. Take care of this pesky nuisance by changing your water to RO/DI water and let your Siamese fish tackle it.
Blue Algae, or Cynobacteria, have photosynthesis, meaning the more light, the more it thrives. It is extremely harmful to both plants, by smothering, and fish, by poisoning. Treat your aquarium with erythromycin but be sure you know what you are doing, as you will need to check for ammonia and nitrate.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
It is impossible to eliminate algae altogether, and you should not be frustrated by the persistent nature of algae to accumulate. What you can do is control the condition under which plant life and fish thrives and algae does not. First, how much light are you allowing into your tank area? If you have light for more than ten hours a day, you are assisting algae grow in your tank, so don't keep the lights on 24-7. You can purchase algae eating fish if that would fit with your aquarium's motif. Some fish types that consume algae are three breeds of suckermouth catfish, the Ancistrus, Peckoltia, and Otocinlus. In addition, the Siamese Algae Eater, Crossocheilus siamensis is a great choice for controlling the algae in your tank. If you have a large tank, then the Common Plec is a good choice as well. But they are aggressive fish and do grow to huge size. Saltwater fish that are excellent for algae consumption are most tangs/surgeon fish, or any grazer.
The next step in controlling algae is to consistently change the water itself. By doing this, you are controlling the nutrient levels in the tank, which is crucial. Controlling nitrates, phosphates, and silicates are especially important. Another thing to look for is how you are controlling the iron in the tank. You can include different kinds of plants in your setup so they will compete for iron and other nutrients algae feeds off of in order to how a low opportunity for algae to survive.
Your first battle is likely to be with brown algae, or diatoms, because it appears first by siphoning silicon from the new aquarium tank itself, and unlike other stages of algae, it is unaffected by low lighting levels, so controlling light will not stop it from thriving. You can effectively combat it by changing water and gravel often. Diatoms thrive in conditions where phosphate is low and silicon is high, and this is generally what your scenario will be when you first start your aquarium. As time progresses and the environment changes, brown algae is usually replaced by green algae, because green algae thrives in a higher phosphate environment.
Green algae is apparently delicious and the best way to get rid of it is to bring in those algae eating catish and/or Siamese. Combined with keeping your aquarium only lit for a maximum of ten hours a day and simple manual removal of clumps of green algae, you can control what is typically the most usual and common algae growth in your aquarium.
Red Algae, or Brush, is a real problem because it is difficult to remove manually and most fish won't eat it. Take care of this pesky nuisance by changing your water to RO/DI water and let your Siamese fish tackle it.
Blue Algae, or Cynobacteria, have photosynthesis, meaning the more light, the more it thrives. It is extremely harmful to both plants, by smothering, and fish, by poisoning. Treat your aquarium with erythromycin but be sure you know what you are doing, as you will need to check for ammonia and nitrate.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Setting up a new Freshwater Shrimp Aquarium
By Ryan Wood
Setting up a new shrimp tank can be very easy as long as you do it properly the first time. You don't want to rush into things! Haste makes waste when it comes to mimicking nature, so please don't attempt rush nature.
A very important rule is that you do not keep your shrimp in a tank with fish that will eat them. If a fish can fit it in its mouth, it will most likely eat it, or stress the shrimp out so much that it will go into hiding and you will never see them. When it comes to breeding, the baby shrimp are so small that they will undoubtedly get eaten by fish. You have to remember that shrimp are a natural food source for most fish in the wild. Most of the shrimp that hobbyists keep are genetic breeds which bring specific color strains. Wild varieties are more of a camouflaged coloration in order to hide. Having a colorful shrimp removes the shrimps natural camouflage defense and makes it easy for fish to find and eat it. In other words, if you want a successful shrimp tank, make it a shrimp-only tank, just a suggestion.
First thing you need to decide of course is what size tank you are going to get. Shrimp tanks are typically small, 10 gallon being very common. The reason for such a small tank is so you can manage them better, meaning you can easily remove them if need be and you can count them easily as well as well as many other reasons. This does not mean that having a large tank for shrimp is a bad thing, especially if you plan on having a massive colony. Keeping more than 100 shrimp in a 10 gallon tank is not recommended so keep that in mind. If you want to have a large colony, start with a larger tank.
OK, so you have decided on the size tank you want, now it is time to get to the equipment. Sponge Filters are highly recommended for many reasons: baby shrimp won't get sucked up into the intakes, great bio-load with the sponges, and they are inexpensive. You do not need to go out and purchase an expensive canister filter for a small shrimp tank. Sponge filters are best for smaller tanks. You can always use a canister/HOB filter for a larger tank and slip a sponge over the intake to prevent the shrimps from getting sucked into the filter. Most have reported though that after switching to a sponge filter they have seen a dramatic increase in the number of baby shrimp, suggesting that other filter types are killing them via the intake. I cannot confirm this because I use a sponge slip over the intake of my HOB AquaClear-50 filter on my 10 gallon tank. Also, sponge filters are also best for bare tanks. If you have a lot of plants you will need good circulation, which a sponge filter may not provide enough of. You make the decision, either way you will still be able to breed shrimp, just cover the intake to protect the shrimp.
Now you need to get substrate for your new tank. This can be a tricky choice and many people prefer different types. I pick the type of substrate based on the water parameter requirements of the shrimp I wish to keep. Remember that some shrimp need hard water, and some need soft water. Some shrimps need high-ph, and others low-ph. ADA Aquasoil is a substrate chosen by many hobbyists who wish to have soft, acidic water. Aquasoil also helps buffer the low ph. This substrate is best suited for shrimp that fit the soft, acidic requirements. If you notice, most Crystal Red Shrimp(CRS) breeders keep their CRS in tanks with ADA Aquasoil substrate. You can also use an inert substrate along with peat to lower ph and hardness, although buffering the ph is more difficult this way and I don't recommend it.
For a hard-water, high-ph tank, you can use an inert substrate instead of Aquasoil. Use a smaller amount of peat as well in a tank with inert substrate to keep the ph from becoming too alkaline, but not enough to drop the hardness of the water. This all depends on your tap water of course. If your tap is coming out at the ph and hardness you want when using an inert substrate then it is best not to touch a thing. My ph comes out at over 8.0, so I need to use peat in my hard water tank just to bring the ph down a bit and soften the water as well. It may sound difficult to get the ph and hardness you want, but trust me it really isn't as long as you have the right setup.
Next on the list is vegetation in your shrimp tank. It is HIGHLY recommended that you have some form of vegetation in your tank. Whether it is moss, stem plants, rhizome plants, etc., as vegetation provides cover, removes ammonia and nitrates from the water, and provide a good food surface for the shrimp, especially the baby shrimp. Moss is commonly used because it acts as a fine comb and holds a lot of microorganisms which the baby shrimp eat. You can use stem plants, which are also a good choice because they grow fast, remove harmful nutrients in the water faster, provide cover, and are also good food surfaces. Remember though that you may need to have CO2 in your tank in order to grow most stem plants, so use moss/anubias/ferns if you do not plan to inject CO2.
Fertilizers can be tricky when used in a shrimp tank. I have a heavily planted 10 gallon tank with plenty of high maintenance stem plants, moss, and anubias. The tank is injected with CO2 (DIY) and I dose plenty of fertilizers. I DO NOT dose nitrate however, I only dose Kent Pro-Plant, Seachem Iron, and K2PO4 (phosphate). I also do not dose anything with copper (Seachem Flourish, etc.). Excessive copper is sure to kill your shrimp as you may have read elsewhere. I have been dosing a lot of the abovementioned fertilizers for a long time and have not had problems with my Red Cherry Shrimp at all. They still breed like crazy. However, unless you are experienced with high maintenance planted tank and using fertilizers, I don't recommend attempting to grow shrimp in a similar tank. You can very easily kill your shrimp because fertilizers and plant uptakes are not easy chemistry.
Lighting and heating are pretty self-explanatory. Use a heater to keep your tank at the recommended temperature, and only use a small amount of light for the mosses/ferns/anubias.
Good luck. Go to http://www.planetinverts.com/forum to ask any questions you may have.
By: Ryan Wood
Planet Inverts.com
Planet Inverts.com Shrimp Store
Setting up a new shrimp tank can be very easy as long as you do it properly the first time. You don't want to rush into things! Haste makes waste when it comes to mimicking nature, so please don't attempt rush nature.
A very important rule is that you do not keep your shrimp in a tank with fish that will eat them. If a fish can fit it in its mouth, it will most likely eat it, or stress the shrimp out so much that it will go into hiding and you will never see them. When it comes to breeding, the baby shrimp are so small that they will undoubtedly get eaten by fish. You have to remember that shrimp are a natural food source for most fish in the wild. Most of the shrimp that hobbyists keep are genetic breeds which bring specific color strains. Wild varieties are more of a camouflaged coloration in order to hide. Having a colorful shrimp removes the shrimps natural camouflage defense and makes it easy for fish to find and eat it. In other words, if you want a successful shrimp tank, make it a shrimp-only tank, just a suggestion.
First thing you need to decide of course is what size tank you are going to get. Shrimp tanks are typically small, 10 gallon being very common. The reason for such a small tank is so you can manage them better, meaning you can easily remove them if need be and you can count them easily as well as well as many other reasons. This does not mean that having a large tank for shrimp is a bad thing, especially if you plan on having a massive colony. Keeping more than 100 shrimp in a 10 gallon tank is not recommended so keep that in mind. If you want to have a large colony, start with a larger tank.
OK, so you have decided on the size tank you want, now it is time to get to the equipment. Sponge Filters are highly recommended for many reasons: baby shrimp won't get sucked up into the intakes, great bio-load with the sponges, and they are inexpensive. You do not need to go out and purchase an expensive canister filter for a small shrimp tank. Sponge filters are best for smaller tanks. You can always use a canister/HOB filter for a larger tank and slip a sponge over the intake to prevent the shrimps from getting sucked into the filter. Most have reported though that after switching to a sponge filter they have seen a dramatic increase in the number of baby shrimp, suggesting that other filter types are killing them via the intake. I cannot confirm this because I use a sponge slip over the intake of my HOB AquaClear-50 filter on my 10 gallon tank. Also, sponge filters are also best for bare tanks. If you have a lot of plants you will need good circulation, which a sponge filter may not provide enough of. You make the decision, either way you will still be able to breed shrimp, just cover the intake to protect the shrimp.
Now you need to get substrate for your new tank. This can be a tricky choice and many people prefer different types. I pick the type of substrate based on the water parameter requirements of the shrimp I wish to keep. Remember that some shrimp need hard water, and some need soft water. Some shrimps need high-ph, and others low-ph. ADA Aquasoil is a substrate chosen by many hobbyists who wish to have soft, acidic water. Aquasoil also helps buffer the low ph. This substrate is best suited for shrimp that fit the soft, acidic requirements. If you notice, most Crystal Red Shrimp(CRS) breeders keep their CRS in tanks with ADA Aquasoil substrate. You can also use an inert substrate along with peat to lower ph and hardness, although buffering the ph is more difficult this way and I don't recommend it.
For a hard-water, high-ph tank, you can use an inert substrate instead of Aquasoil. Use a smaller amount of peat as well in a tank with inert substrate to keep the ph from becoming too alkaline, but not enough to drop the hardness of the water. This all depends on your tap water of course. If your tap is coming out at the ph and hardness you want when using an inert substrate then it is best not to touch a thing. My ph comes out at over 8.0, so I need to use peat in my hard water tank just to bring the ph down a bit and soften the water as well. It may sound difficult to get the ph and hardness you want, but trust me it really isn't as long as you have the right setup.
Next on the list is vegetation in your shrimp tank. It is HIGHLY recommended that you have some form of vegetation in your tank. Whether it is moss, stem plants, rhizome plants, etc., as vegetation provides cover, removes ammonia and nitrates from the water, and provide a good food surface for the shrimp, especially the baby shrimp. Moss is commonly used because it acts as a fine comb and holds a lot of microorganisms which the baby shrimp eat. You can use stem plants, which are also a good choice because they grow fast, remove harmful nutrients in the water faster, provide cover, and are also good food surfaces. Remember though that you may need to have CO2 in your tank in order to grow most stem plants, so use moss/anubias/ferns if you do not plan to inject CO2.
Fertilizers can be tricky when used in a shrimp tank. I have a heavily planted 10 gallon tank with plenty of high maintenance stem plants, moss, and anubias. The tank is injected with CO2 (DIY) and I dose plenty of fertilizers. I DO NOT dose nitrate however, I only dose Kent Pro-Plant, Seachem Iron, and K2PO4 (phosphate). I also do not dose anything with copper (Seachem Flourish, etc.). Excessive copper is sure to kill your shrimp as you may have read elsewhere. I have been dosing a lot of the abovementioned fertilizers for a long time and have not had problems with my Red Cherry Shrimp at all. They still breed like crazy. However, unless you are experienced with high maintenance planted tank and using fertilizers, I don't recommend attempting to grow shrimp in a similar tank. You can very easily kill your shrimp because fertilizers and plant uptakes are not easy chemistry.
Lighting and heating are pretty self-explanatory. Use a heater to keep your tank at the recommended temperature, and only use a small amount of light for the mosses/ferns/anubias.
Good luck. Go to http://www.planetinverts.com/forum to ask any questions you may have.
By: Ryan Wood
Planet Inverts.com
Planet Inverts.com Shrimp Store
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
What Species of Fish Will Thrive in My Salt Water Fish Tank?
By Arturo Ronzon
If you have invested in a salt water fish tank, you are certain to want to acquire fish that will thrive in the environment. Many salt water fish need special conditions to be happy and healthy. Be certain you do the research on any species to provide you with the information you need to provide the fish with what they need.
There are many species of fish that are adaptable to most salt water fish tanks. The specific fish you choose should be largely based on what you are intending to accomplish with the tank. If you are looking to add color and life for your room, you may want to look for species that are more brightly colored. Many of the most popular colored fish are the damselfish and the many varieties of wrasse. These have been used for years by people looking to add color and flair.
If you are looking to fill your tank with more rare and exotic fish, you may need to do a little more research. Many of the normal pet stores or fish suppliers may not have these species readily available. An exotic salt water tank will be a topic of conversation for people who view it and the more exotic the fish. Many of the more exotic species that will thrive could include any form of lionfish or even a seahorse. These are not common to salt water fish tanks, but they should have no trouble living in your tank.
If you have recently set up an aquarium tank, you will need to fill it with fish. The species listed above are just a few examples of the thousands available. Be certain that the pet you purchase will be healthy in a salt water tank and is what you are looking for. Since it is your aquarium, you will need to decide what species are going to give you the most satisfaction.
For more information about Salt Water Fish Tanks, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-6-Salt-Water-Fish-Tanks.html
If you have invested in a salt water fish tank, you are certain to want to acquire fish that will thrive in the environment. Many salt water fish need special conditions to be happy and healthy. Be certain you do the research on any species to provide you with the information you need to provide the fish with what they need.
There are many species of fish that are adaptable to most salt water fish tanks. The specific fish you choose should be largely based on what you are intending to accomplish with the tank. If you are looking to add color and life for your room, you may want to look for species that are more brightly colored. Many of the most popular colored fish are the damselfish and the many varieties of wrasse. These have been used for years by people looking to add color and flair.
If you are looking to fill your tank with more rare and exotic fish, you may need to do a little more research. Many of the normal pet stores or fish suppliers may not have these species readily available. An exotic salt water tank will be a topic of conversation for people who view it and the more exotic the fish. Many of the more exotic species that will thrive could include any form of lionfish or even a seahorse. These are not common to salt water fish tanks, but they should have no trouble living in your tank.
If you have recently set up an aquarium tank, you will need to fill it with fish. The species listed above are just a few examples of the thousands available. Be certain that the pet you purchase will be healthy in a salt water tank and is what you are looking for. Since it is your aquarium, you will need to decide what species are going to give you the most satisfaction.
For more information about Salt Water Fish Tanks, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-6-Salt-Water-Fish-Tanks.html
Friday, November 23, 2007
Is Your Goldfish Suffering With Eyestrain?
By Elaine Rushmore
All that glitters is not goldfish friendly. Your goldfish may need protection from things you may not see. Goldfish have very well developed vision; in fact the optic lobe--the vision center--is the largest part of your goldfish's brain. Though a little short sighted, they have an almost 360 degree view of the world because their eyes are on the sides of their head. That lets them see two things at the same time - which is great for finding food and for keeping an eye open for predators.
Like us, goldfish see in color, but they can also see ultraviolet light. They have greater sensitivity to light than we do but, unlike us, they have no eyelids because their eyes are constantly bathed in water. That gives them a problem we don't have; they can't shut their eyes to avoid bright lights. Furthermore, they can't dilate their pupils, so their eyes adjust to changes in light levels much more slowly than ours. It can take goldfish twenty minutes to adapt to lights being turned on or off, which is why they often dash for cover when you turn on a light. It's impossible for them to look away so all they can do is try to hide behind rocks and plants.
It's important to protect your fish from bright lights and sudden movements and to spend a little time working out the right location for their tank.
Avoid placing your tank on or near a windowsill - the worst place for bright sunlight. If you can't avoid putting the tank near a window, make sure you shade it from the incoming light using window blinds, or the wrap-round tank 'wallpaper' that most fish shops sell.
Remember that bright sunlight isn't a problem only in the summer months. It can be worse in winter because the winter sun is lower in the sky. Think how dazzling it can be when you are driving your car towards the sun, and think how much worse it could be for your goldfish in their tank if they have to suffer that all day, every day.
Add some stones or a small upturned flower pot for your fish to find refuge in.
There may be problems with bright light that you haven't noticed. Try crouching down at each end of the tank and look through it to see what your fish see. Check for mirrors or other shiny objects that may be causing a problem for your fish but which have never been a problem for you.
Room lights can be another problem for your goldfish. Although you may think nothing of it when you switch a room light on or off, your goldfish needs up to twenty minutes to adapt to the change in light. If your tank doesn't have a lid, it's a good idea to get one, especially if you have a ceiling light shining directly into the tank. If your fish tank is fitted with a light, turn the room light on first and then wait fifteen minutes before turning on the tank light so your fish has time to adjust to the light.
At night, switch the tank light off fifteen minutes before you switch the room light off. If you have dimmer switches for any of the lights near your fish tank the job is easy. You could also consider putting your tank light on a timer so it comes on after you start your day, and goes off before you go to bed.
Sudden movement is something else your fish can't close their eyes to. When you're positioning your fish tank, it's important to think about the activity that will happen near the tank. Avoid the hallway and kitchen if you can. Both these locations might seem like good ones, but each has drawbacks. The hallway is likely to be one place in your house that gets a lot of traffic so your fish may see a lot of giant fast moving objects hurtling towards their world.
The kitchen, though a common place to put a fish tank, can also be a busy place. Cooking involves constant moving about between refrigerator, work top, cooker, and cupboards. If your fish are nearby they get a constant stream of rapid and unexpected, and possibly frightening, movement they can't escape from.
A quiet corner of your living room is often a much better location, and provides you with the opportunity to sit and relax watching your goldfish. But even here it's not necessarily relaxing for your fish. Make sure the tank is not in line of sight of the TV - a rich source of sudden movement. Your bedroom is a good location, because most of the time there's not much happening there. Your child's bedroom, however, could be a very active place, depending on the age of your child.
Of course, in every home there will always be some bright lights and some sudden movement. However, by using tank 'wallpaper' to cover one or more sides of the tank, you can protect your fish from the worst of them, and create a greater sense of security for your fish. Keeping plenty of healthy plants in the tank helps screen fish from visual noise, and makes the tank more interesting for you to look at. Developing a fish eye view of the world helps you give your fish a more comfortable and healthier home, and a longer life.
Elaine Rushmore is the author of 'The Goldfish Doctor' - a top quality, step-by-step guide to the diagnosis, treatment and cure of sick goldfish. Goldfish owners around the world have benefited from the information this book contains.
Protect your family's goldfish now - http://www.goldfishdoctor.com
All that glitters is not goldfish friendly. Your goldfish may need protection from things you may not see. Goldfish have very well developed vision; in fact the optic lobe--the vision center--is the largest part of your goldfish's brain. Though a little short sighted, they have an almost 360 degree view of the world because their eyes are on the sides of their head. That lets them see two things at the same time - which is great for finding food and for keeping an eye open for predators.
Like us, goldfish see in color, but they can also see ultraviolet light. They have greater sensitivity to light than we do but, unlike us, they have no eyelids because their eyes are constantly bathed in water. That gives them a problem we don't have; they can't shut their eyes to avoid bright lights. Furthermore, they can't dilate their pupils, so their eyes adjust to changes in light levels much more slowly than ours. It can take goldfish twenty minutes to adapt to lights being turned on or off, which is why they often dash for cover when you turn on a light. It's impossible for them to look away so all they can do is try to hide behind rocks and plants.
It's important to protect your fish from bright lights and sudden movements and to spend a little time working out the right location for their tank.
Avoid placing your tank on or near a windowsill - the worst place for bright sunlight. If you can't avoid putting the tank near a window, make sure you shade it from the incoming light using window blinds, or the wrap-round tank 'wallpaper' that most fish shops sell.
Remember that bright sunlight isn't a problem only in the summer months. It can be worse in winter because the winter sun is lower in the sky. Think how dazzling it can be when you are driving your car towards the sun, and think how much worse it could be for your goldfish in their tank if they have to suffer that all day, every day.
Add some stones or a small upturned flower pot for your fish to find refuge in.
There may be problems with bright light that you haven't noticed. Try crouching down at each end of the tank and look through it to see what your fish see. Check for mirrors or other shiny objects that may be causing a problem for your fish but which have never been a problem for you.
Room lights can be another problem for your goldfish. Although you may think nothing of it when you switch a room light on or off, your goldfish needs up to twenty minutes to adapt to the change in light. If your tank doesn't have a lid, it's a good idea to get one, especially if you have a ceiling light shining directly into the tank. If your fish tank is fitted with a light, turn the room light on first and then wait fifteen minutes before turning on the tank light so your fish has time to adjust to the light.
At night, switch the tank light off fifteen minutes before you switch the room light off. If you have dimmer switches for any of the lights near your fish tank the job is easy. You could also consider putting your tank light on a timer so it comes on after you start your day, and goes off before you go to bed.
Sudden movement is something else your fish can't close their eyes to. When you're positioning your fish tank, it's important to think about the activity that will happen near the tank. Avoid the hallway and kitchen if you can. Both these locations might seem like good ones, but each has drawbacks. The hallway is likely to be one place in your house that gets a lot of traffic so your fish may see a lot of giant fast moving objects hurtling towards their world.
The kitchen, though a common place to put a fish tank, can also be a busy place. Cooking involves constant moving about between refrigerator, work top, cooker, and cupboards. If your fish are nearby they get a constant stream of rapid and unexpected, and possibly frightening, movement they can't escape from.
A quiet corner of your living room is often a much better location, and provides you with the opportunity to sit and relax watching your goldfish. But even here it's not necessarily relaxing for your fish. Make sure the tank is not in line of sight of the TV - a rich source of sudden movement. Your bedroom is a good location, because most of the time there's not much happening there. Your child's bedroom, however, could be a very active place, depending on the age of your child.
Of course, in every home there will always be some bright lights and some sudden movement. However, by using tank 'wallpaper' to cover one or more sides of the tank, you can protect your fish from the worst of them, and create a greater sense of security for your fish. Keeping plenty of healthy plants in the tank helps screen fish from visual noise, and makes the tank more interesting for you to look at. Developing a fish eye view of the world helps you give your fish a more comfortable and healthier home, and a longer life.
Elaine Rushmore is the author of 'The Goldfish Doctor' - a top quality, step-by-step guide to the diagnosis, treatment and cure of sick goldfish. Goldfish owners around the world have benefited from the information this book contains.
Protect your family's goldfish now - http://www.goldfishdoctor.com
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
What Fish Can I Put in My Freshwater Fish Tank?
By Arturo Ronzon
There are literally hundreds of species of fish that can thrive in a freshwater fish tank. The type of fish and the quantity will be up to you and what you are looking to accomplish with the tank. Anyone knows that there are a lot of fish that will not live in freshwater tanks and should be avoided.
There are many sorts of fish that can add to your freshwater fish tank. Many of these fish are very brightly colored and some can be very costly. An employee at a pet or fish store will help you in deciding which fish to buy. Goldfish and guppies are popular choices but you could choose to get a little fancier. Betas or African Cichlids are more rare species but will add much needed color and value to your freshwater fish tank. It is common belief that it is not healthy to the fish to overcrowd your tank.
Experts say that the proper rule is to have one fish for every 4 gallons of water your tank holds. This will give each fish the proper room needed for swimming and allow them to feel like they have their own territory. Some species of fish can be fairly aggressive and this will relieve them of some of the pressure to assert themselves on the other fish. No matter what type of fish you choose, you should be able to fill your fish with the color or variety you are looking for.
Most people know that tropical or saltwater fish should not be placed in a freshwater tank. These fish require different things in order to thrive. If you are uncertain as to what kind of water a fish needs, consult a fish store employee or research the fish's online. This will keep you from wasting your money on species that are not going to do well in your freshwater fish tank.
Choose your fish wisely, and you should be able to fill your tank with the freshwater fish you want. Make certain you only get enough fish to give them the room they need and in no way put tropical or saltwater fish into your freshwater fish tank.
For more information about Freshwater Fish Tanks, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-8-Freshwater-Fish-Tanks.html
There are literally hundreds of species of fish that can thrive in a freshwater fish tank. The type of fish and the quantity will be up to you and what you are looking to accomplish with the tank. Anyone knows that there are a lot of fish that will not live in freshwater tanks and should be avoided.
There are many sorts of fish that can add to your freshwater fish tank. Many of these fish are very brightly colored and some can be very costly. An employee at a pet or fish store will help you in deciding which fish to buy. Goldfish and guppies are popular choices but you could choose to get a little fancier. Betas or African Cichlids are more rare species but will add much needed color and value to your freshwater fish tank. It is common belief that it is not healthy to the fish to overcrowd your tank.
Experts say that the proper rule is to have one fish for every 4 gallons of water your tank holds. This will give each fish the proper room needed for swimming and allow them to feel like they have their own territory. Some species of fish can be fairly aggressive and this will relieve them of some of the pressure to assert themselves on the other fish. No matter what type of fish you choose, you should be able to fill your fish with the color or variety you are looking for.
Most people know that tropical or saltwater fish should not be placed in a freshwater tank. These fish require different things in order to thrive. If you are uncertain as to what kind of water a fish needs, consult a fish store employee or research the fish's online. This will keep you from wasting your money on species that are not going to do well in your freshwater fish tank.
Choose your fish wisely, and you should be able to fill your tank with the freshwater fish you want. Make certain you only get enough fish to give them the room they need and in no way put tropical or saltwater fish into your freshwater fish tank.
For more information about Freshwater Fish Tanks, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-8-Freshwater-Fish-Tanks.html
Monday, November 19, 2007
Some Beginner Tips For Aquarium Hobbyists
By Richard Gilliland
However, amateur aquarium hobbyists are prone to make mistakes that could endanger the lives of their tiny aquatic inhabitants. Not to mention, it would do nothing to add to the beauty of your home. If you are entering into an aquarium-keeping hobby for the first time, you should bear some things in mind. Here are some tips that people who are new to the aquarium keeping hobby can use:
The location of the aquarium is the first important concern. Your aquarium should be placed in a corner where there is adequate light. If you place an aquarium in a dark corner, not only will it not be seen properly, but it will also be detrimental to the health of the fish. At the same time, do not keep an aquarium at a place where there is an overabundance of sunlight. Reflected sunlight will be good, but not direct sunlight, especially if your tank houses temperate climate fish. If you are buying a big aquarium tank, then a corner placement will not do justice to it. Place it then against a prominent wall of the room.
The shape and size of the tank is another thing to be concerned about. The basic rectangular glass tanks are the cheapest ones, and they also show the fish very nicely. If you want some interesting shapes, then you could go for curved shapes or hexagonal or octagonal cut tanks. Round tanks are also good to look at, but they are difficult to clean, so amateur aquarium hobbyists would do well to avoid them. Do not buy a tank that is too big or too small for the fish. One cannot really say how many fish you can place in a tank, because the size of fish can greatly vary. Just make sure you don't have to cramp your fish in it.
You must consider how easy it will be for you to clean the tanks. Again, rectangular tanks are the easiest to clean. Do not get deep tanks while starting out; they will only be too difficult to clean. Also, acrylic tanks are easier to clean (and unbreakable) as compared to glass tanks. You must clean the tank regularly too, because stagnant water can allow algae to breed in them, which are undesirable in any tank. Keeping the water well circulated using an aquarium pump is also a good idea.
There are two types of aquarium that you can keep - saltwater and freshwater. But if you are a beginner, the saltwater tanks are the best avoided. These tanks are difficult to clean, and the fish that thrive in saltwater need several conditions for thriving. There are many other aspects such as pH value of the water in the tank, the nitrogen content, and even the minerals in the tank bed gravel that you need to be concerned about. A little change in the tank could be fatal to the fish. Freshwater tanks are several times safer.
At the least, you will need a good quality filter for your aquarium. An aquarium filter works continuously to remove the impurities and fish waste products through a set mechanism and keeps the water at a healthy level. There are several types of filters available, such as power filters, under-gravel filters and canister filters. All of them are good, but you can do a little bit of research and decide which of these will be suitable to your tank. The power filter is recommended because it is easy to clean and maintain and it can be hidden behind the aquarium tank.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
However, amateur aquarium hobbyists are prone to make mistakes that could endanger the lives of their tiny aquatic inhabitants. Not to mention, it would do nothing to add to the beauty of your home. If you are entering into an aquarium-keeping hobby for the first time, you should bear some things in mind. Here are some tips that people who are new to the aquarium keeping hobby can use:
The location of the aquarium is the first important concern. Your aquarium should be placed in a corner where there is adequate light. If you place an aquarium in a dark corner, not only will it not be seen properly, but it will also be detrimental to the health of the fish. At the same time, do not keep an aquarium at a place where there is an overabundance of sunlight. Reflected sunlight will be good, but not direct sunlight, especially if your tank houses temperate climate fish. If you are buying a big aquarium tank, then a corner placement will not do justice to it. Place it then against a prominent wall of the room.
The shape and size of the tank is another thing to be concerned about. The basic rectangular glass tanks are the cheapest ones, and they also show the fish very nicely. If you want some interesting shapes, then you could go for curved shapes or hexagonal or octagonal cut tanks. Round tanks are also good to look at, but they are difficult to clean, so amateur aquarium hobbyists would do well to avoid them. Do not buy a tank that is too big or too small for the fish. One cannot really say how many fish you can place in a tank, because the size of fish can greatly vary. Just make sure you don't have to cramp your fish in it.
You must consider how easy it will be for you to clean the tanks. Again, rectangular tanks are the easiest to clean. Do not get deep tanks while starting out; they will only be too difficult to clean. Also, acrylic tanks are easier to clean (and unbreakable) as compared to glass tanks. You must clean the tank regularly too, because stagnant water can allow algae to breed in them, which are undesirable in any tank. Keeping the water well circulated using an aquarium pump is also a good idea.
There are two types of aquarium that you can keep - saltwater and freshwater. But if you are a beginner, the saltwater tanks are the best avoided. These tanks are difficult to clean, and the fish that thrive in saltwater need several conditions for thriving. There are many other aspects such as pH value of the water in the tank, the nitrogen content, and even the minerals in the tank bed gravel that you need to be concerned about. A little change in the tank could be fatal to the fish. Freshwater tanks are several times safer.
At the least, you will need a good quality filter for your aquarium. An aquarium filter works continuously to remove the impurities and fish waste products through a set mechanism and keeps the water at a healthy level. There are several types of filters available, such as power filters, under-gravel filters and canister filters. All of them are good, but you can do a little bit of research and decide which of these will be suitable to your tank. The power filter is recommended because it is easy to clean and maintain and it can be hidden behind the aquarium tank.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Saturday, November 17, 2007
Removal Of Fish From Your Aquarium
By Richard Gilliland
Removing dead fish is a very simple process actually, but you have to be sure the fish is really dead. Dead fish will temporarily sink to the bottom of the aquarium, but then soon enough, they will begin floating in the tank in the infamous belly-up position. This is the time when the fish will begin releasing toxins into the water. When you see a fish in this manner, remove it as soon as possible. It is not a good idea, however, to actually handle dead fish. You must use small nets or gloves to remove the fish from your tank.
However, it is not just dead fish that you will need to remove from your tank. Fish that are obviously sick must be immediately quarantined, which you can do by putting them into a fishbowl so that they do not spread their disease to the other fish in the tank. You can understand if fish are sick by looking at their movement in the water. If the fish are sluggish in the way they move (you must compare with how they move normally), or if they are spending a lot of time behind the rocks or plants in the aquarium, or simply lying lethargically on the aquarium bed, then something is wrong with them. The eyes of the fish could also be indicators of disease. If there is anything different with the eye, first remove the fish from the aquarium, and then get it checked by a qualified person.
But the most difficult thing is to remove a live and healthy fish from the tank. There are many reasons why you would want to remove a live fish. The fish might have outgrown the capacity of the tank, or the tank might be getting crowded, or simply the fish might be a danger to other fish due to its violent nature. Betta fish are notorious for attacking other fish in the tanks. Whatever the reason may be, removing live healthy fish from the tank is always a challenge.
There are some obvious problems. Live fish will squirm and wriggle around a lot in protest when you try to remove them. Some fish, like the surgeonfish, will also harm you if you try to touch them. Then there are toxic fish that you have to be worried about. Also, when you try to remove a live fish, there will be a lot of thrashing and flailing about, due to which the entire setup of your aquarium tank could be disturbed.
Your best bet to take out a live fish from your tank would be to use a line, hook and bait, just like you do when you go fishing. But you will have to use a blunt hook so as not to harm the fish. Tie up a morsel of the fish's favorite food on the hook and dangle it in the tank keeping the line tight. The fish will take the bait, and then you can transfer it to another tank.
Another way to do this effectively is to confuse the fish. Most fish are startled when there are sudden changes in light, because deep under the water in their natural habitat, there are never any quick light changes. Anyways, you can keep your tank in darkness for several hours and then suddenly put all the lights on in the room. Taking advantage of the confusion of the fish, you can manually take them up, using protective gloves. An alternative to this is to come up to the tank in the middle of the night and then to shine a torch suddenly at them.
Putting fish into a tank is many times easier than removing them, especially if you want to retain fish that are still alive. You will need to be patient and careful so that you accomplish the task without harming the fish in question and the other inhabitants of the tank.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Removing dead fish is a very simple process actually, but you have to be sure the fish is really dead. Dead fish will temporarily sink to the bottom of the aquarium, but then soon enough, they will begin floating in the tank in the infamous belly-up position. This is the time when the fish will begin releasing toxins into the water. When you see a fish in this manner, remove it as soon as possible. It is not a good idea, however, to actually handle dead fish. You must use small nets or gloves to remove the fish from your tank.
However, it is not just dead fish that you will need to remove from your tank. Fish that are obviously sick must be immediately quarantined, which you can do by putting them into a fishbowl so that they do not spread their disease to the other fish in the tank. You can understand if fish are sick by looking at their movement in the water. If the fish are sluggish in the way they move (you must compare with how they move normally), or if they are spending a lot of time behind the rocks or plants in the aquarium, or simply lying lethargically on the aquarium bed, then something is wrong with them. The eyes of the fish could also be indicators of disease. If there is anything different with the eye, first remove the fish from the aquarium, and then get it checked by a qualified person.
But the most difficult thing is to remove a live and healthy fish from the tank. There are many reasons why you would want to remove a live fish. The fish might have outgrown the capacity of the tank, or the tank might be getting crowded, or simply the fish might be a danger to other fish due to its violent nature. Betta fish are notorious for attacking other fish in the tanks. Whatever the reason may be, removing live healthy fish from the tank is always a challenge.
There are some obvious problems. Live fish will squirm and wriggle around a lot in protest when you try to remove them. Some fish, like the surgeonfish, will also harm you if you try to touch them. Then there are toxic fish that you have to be worried about. Also, when you try to remove a live fish, there will be a lot of thrashing and flailing about, due to which the entire setup of your aquarium tank could be disturbed.
Your best bet to take out a live fish from your tank would be to use a line, hook and bait, just like you do when you go fishing. But you will have to use a blunt hook so as not to harm the fish. Tie up a morsel of the fish's favorite food on the hook and dangle it in the tank keeping the line tight. The fish will take the bait, and then you can transfer it to another tank.
Another way to do this effectively is to confuse the fish. Most fish are startled when there are sudden changes in light, because deep under the water in their natural habitat, there are never any quick light changes. Anyways, you can keep your tank in darkness for several hours and then suddenly put all the lights on in the room. Taking advantage of the confusion of the fish, you can manually take them up, using protective gloves. An alternative to this is to come up to the tank in the middle of the night and then to shine a torch suddenly at them.
Putting fish into a tank is many times easier than removing them, especially if you want to retain fish that are still alive. You will need to be patient and careful so that you accomplish the task without harming the fish in question and the other inhabitants of the tank.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
The Process Known as Painting or Juicing Tropical Fish
By Paul Bromhall
The process of painting started in the late 1970's with the Glass Perch (Chanda ranga or Chanda wolfii ) and was soon noticed by the aquarium keepers of the day, protests followed and it seemed that the process had been stopped. However in the late 1980's early 1990's the process started again but this time spread to many more species. The rather worrying fact is that most people who buy these modified fish are totally unaware of the disgusting process involved to juice their fish or are unaware that their fish have been modified at all.
There is more than one method to alter the colour and appearance of tropical fish. Some are more barbaric than others but all have some significant health consequences. Coloring fish stresses them and makes them more susceptible to disease. Young fish that are not fully grown are often stunted by the painting process. The mortality rates are a staggering 80%. This process shows another example of man's disregard for nature and is obviously fueled by greed. The methods for painting are:-
Treated Food -
Fish, normally young fish are fed treated foods that will tint them. This dye certainly stunts their growth. Once these fish have been purchased and are no longer fed the modified food then their colour eventually fades.
Dye Injection -
Needles are used to puncture and inject dye under the skin, like a tattoo. This process can only colour a small area each time so fish will receive many, many injections to achieve the desired effect. The dye remains as liquid until the fish's immune system removes it. Many fish will succumb to other infections cause by the puncture wounds. The fish who survive this process will begin to lose their colour after six months. Only 10% of fish that survive this ordeal will keep their colour for any length of time.
Dipping in Dye -
If you thought injecting was barbaric then dying is even worse. The fish are bathed in a caustic solution that strips off their protective outer slime coating (mucoprotein coating), dipped or injected with dye and finally bathed in another chemical that stimulates re-growth of the slime coat. Again the fish undergo extreme stress and not surprisingly the death rate is very high. It is rumoured that foreign breeders have even offered to dye words or emblems onto fish with a laser.
The only real way to stop this despicable trade is to stop buying them and boycott any fish store that still supplies or offers to supply them. Always ask your dealer if the fish are painted or juiced before buying.
More information about fish painting and a list of the most common fish painted can be found at The Process of Painting Fish. When buying fish try to prevent disease by selecting only healthy fish.
For all other tropical fish information can be found at http://www.mytropicalfishworld.com
The process of painting started in the late 1970's with the Glass Perch (Chanda ranga or Chanda wolfii ) and was soon noticed by the aquarium keepers of the day, protests followed and it seemed that the process had been stopped. However in the late 1980's early 1990's the process started again but this time spread to many more species. The rather worrying fact is that most people who buy these modified fish are totally unaware of the disgusting process involved to juice their fish or are unaware that their fish have been modified at all.
There is more than one method to alter the colour and appearance of tropical fish. Some are more barbaric than others but all have some significant health consequences. Coloring fish stresses them and makes them more susceptible to disease. Young fish that are not fully grown are often stunted by the painting process. The mortality rates are a staggering 80%. This process shows another example of man's disregard for nature and is obviously fueled by greed. The methods for painting are:-
Treated Food -
Fish, normally young fish are fed treated foods that will tint them. This dye certainly stunts their growth. Once these fish have been purchased and are no longer fed the modified food then their colour eventually fades.
Dye Injection -
Needles are used to puncture and inject dye under the skin, like a tattoo. This process can only colour a small area each time so fish will receive many, many injections to achieve the desired effect. The dye remains as liquid until the fish's immune system removes it. Many fish will succumb to other infections cause by the puncture wounds. The fish who survive this process will begin to lose their colour after six months. Only 10% of fish that survive this ordeal will keep their colour for any length of time.
Dipping in Dye -
If you thought injecting was barbaric then dying is even worse. The fish are bathed in a caustic solution that strips off their protective outer slime coating (mucoprotein coating), dipped or injected with dye and finally bathed in another chemical that stimulates re-growth of the slime coat. Again the fish undergo extreme stress and not surprisingly the death rate is very high. It is rumoured that foreign breeders have even offered to dye words or emblems onto fish with a laser.
The only real way to stop this despicable trade is to stop buying them and boycott any fish store that still supplies or offers to supply them. Always ask your dealer if the fish are painted or juiced before buying.
More information about fish painting and a list of the most common fish painted can be found at The Process of Painting Fish. When buying fish try to prevent disease by selecting only healthy fish.
For all other tropical fish information can be found at http://www.mytropicalfishworld.com
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
How Hard is it to Set Up a Tropical Fish Tank?
By Arturo Ronzon
This will greatly depend on the amount of knowledge you have on the subject. If you are not that knowledgeable, you may want to research the project before beginning. The process is basically simple, but if done wrong, your fish will pay the price.
The first thing required, is the purchase of the proper elements to keep your tropical fish tank working properly. The most important thing you will need is a tank heater. Since the fish you will keep are used to swimming in warmer water, you will need to keep your tank at that temperature. A good heater will allow the fish to swim as if they were in their own local water, resulting in a better overall tropical fish tank.
A filter is another key feature to the installation of a tropical fish tank. The filter should be large enough to handle the size of your tank. The filter is the main source of keeping the water clean and clear to better keep your fish healthy. The lack of a filter or an improper filter could lead to green water and alga deposits on your tank. This is not the desired effect of any tank and should be avoided.
The stand for your tropical fish tank will add emphasis to the tank. It can be bought or built to add style to what has been known to be an eyesore of a room. The stand must be strong enough to handle the weight of your tank and the water it will hold. Make certain that the stand can handle your specific tank or the result could be costly.
Setting up the proper tropical fish tank is not a difficult process. If you give yourself the proper tools needed, you should have no trouble. The heater, filter and stand all play a pivotal role in keeping a tropical fish tank. They are all necessary and should not be left out of the process. They will allow you to enjoy your tropical fish tank to the fullest.
For more information about Tropical Fish Tanks, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-5-Tropical-Fish-Tanks.html
This will greatly depend on the amount of knowledge you have on the subject. If you are not that knowledgeable, you may want to research the project before beginning. The process is basically simple, but if done wrong, your fish will pay the price.
The first thing required, is the purchase of the proper elements to keep your tropical fish tank working properly. The most important thing you will need is a tank heater. Since the fish you will keep are used to swimming in warmer water, you will need to keep your tank at that temperature. A good heater will allow the fish to swim as if they were in their own local water, resulting in a better overall tropical fish tank.
A filter is another key feature to the installation of a tropical fish tank. The filter should be large enough to handle the size of your tank. The filter is the main source of keeping the water clean and clear to better keep your fish healthy. The lack of a filter or an improper filter could lead to green water and alga deposits on your tank. This is not the desired effect of any tank and should be avoided.
The stand for your tropical fish tank will add emphasis to the tank. It can be bought or built to add style to what has been known to be an eyesore of a room. The stand must be strong enough to handle the weight of your tank and the water it will hold. Make certain that the stand can handle your specific tank or the result could be costly.
Setting up the proper tropical fish tank is not a difficult process. If you give yourself the proper tools needed, you should have no trouble. The heater, filter and stand all play a pivotal role in keeping a tropical fish tank. They are all necessary and should not be left out of the process. They will allow you to enjoy your tropical fish tank to the fullest.
For more information about Tropical Fish Tanks, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-5-Tropical-Fish-Tanks.html
Sunday, November 11, 2007
How To Set Up A New Fish Tank, And Stock It With Fish
By Chris Emmerson
So you think it is easy to set a tank up with a few tropical fish in it, think again folk's.
If you get into the technical side of things "oh boy" you are going to need a P.H.D.
in everything, but that will not happen on this page, I plan on simplifying this material for you.
First things first.
1. Buy a tank and all of the other paraphernalia you are going to need.
2. You will need a water heater, pump, filter, gravel, plants, rocks and a background if you are going to use one.
3. Fill your tank with water it sounds silly but make sure it is on something sturdy, because when full they are extremely heavy, check for leaks then empty the water.
4. Wash your gravel and rocks under running water, you will be amazed at the dirt that comes out. When you think it is clean do it again, remember this is going to be your fishes home for a long time to come.
5. Put all the clean gravel in the bottom of the tank add your rocks, fit the background at this stage and make sure it is secure. Install your filter, heater and pump at this time.
If you are going to equip your aquarium with lights do it now, it is also a good idea to plant up before filling the tank with water. These are simple to do just place the plants directly into the gravel, you may have to trim them a little.
Now you can fill the aquarium with water, to me this is the exciting bit. But I hope you have not bought any fish yet, fish do not like chlorine and tap water is full of it.
You will need to buy a water conditioner there are plenty of different types on the market, that needs to be put in the tank.
It is time to turn everything on the lights, heater, filter and pump you will hear some noise and see a flow of bubbles, these will settle down to a nice steady rhythm.
If you have a friend or relative who keeps fish, you want to be going around to their house because I want you to scrounge some of their water and if they are not looking pinch some gravel.
You are going to add this to your tank as this will help to establish your water more quickly with nitrogen and bacteria, beneficial to the fish and plants.
Just make sure none of your friends fish are diseased, if they are you will only be transferring it to your tank.
Run the tank like this for five to seven days, do you recall what I said about chlorine well after this space of time it will all have dissipated.
This is without doubt the best part of keeping fish going to the pet shop to purchase some. I am going to give you a few more tips here please read carefully.
1. While you are in the pet shop looking at the tanks of fish ask the shopkeeper if he has a quarantine tank, he should have because any sick fish should be in here receiving treatment.
2. If there is no tank for sick fish leave the shop and go elsewhere.
3. After all if he does not have quarantine tanks, it means he may be selling sick fish to the public.
4. Choose your fish wisely, the kids will try to tempt you into buying fish you do not need.
5. Stick to your guns, the worst thing you could do is get some fish that will outgrow your tank, or a species that will eat every other fish in sight.
I hope you do some research before dashing off to buy fish, there are plenty to pick from and it is nice to know what you want, it beats a shopkeeper selling you what he wants to sell you.
Above all have fun, the hobby is sure to grow on you the more you become involved with it, cheers.
Chris Emmerson full of aches pains and woes but sorry folks still around contrary to some folks wishes.
Why don't you pop over to my site http://www.bulldogsandallpets.com
have a look around folks I am sure you will find something to interest you, don't worry its not all to do with bulldogs.
So you think it is easy to set a tank up with a few tropical fish in it, think again folk's.
If you get into the technical side of things "oh boy" you are going to need a P.H.D.
in everything, but that will not happen on this page, I plan on simplifying this material for you.
First things first.
1. Buy a tank and all of the other paraphernalia you are going to need.
2. You will need a water heater, pump, filter, gravel, plants, rocks and a background if you are going to use one.
3. Fill your tank with water it sounds silly but make sure it is on something sturdy, because when full they are extremely heavy, check for leaks then empty the water.
4. Wash your gravel and rocks under running water, you will be amazed at the dirt that comes out. When you think it is clean do it again, remember this is going to be your fishes home for a long time to come.
5. Put all the clean gravel in the bottom of the tank add your rocks, fit the background at this stage and make sure it is secure. Install your filter, heater and pump at this time.
If you are going to equip your aquarium with lights do it now, it is also a good idea to plant up before filling the tank with water. These are simple to do just place the plants directly into the gravel, you may have to trim them a little.
Now you can fill the aquarium with water, to me this is the exciting bit. But I hope you have not bought any fish yet, fish do not like chlorine and tap water is full of it.
You will need to buy a water conditioner there are plenty of different types on the market, that needs to be put in the tank.
It is time to turn everything on the lights, heater, filter and pump you will hear some noise and see a flow of bubbles, these will settle down to a nice steady rhythm.
If you have a friend or relative who keeps fish, you want to be going around to their house because I want you to scrounge some of their water and if they are not looking pinch some gravel.
You are going to add this to your tank as this will help to establish your water more quickly with nitrogen and bacteria, beneficial to the fish and plants.
Just make sure none of your friends fish are diseased, if they are you will only be transferring it to your tank.
Run the tank like this for five to seven days, do you recall what I said about chlorine well after this space of time it will all have dissipated.
This is without doubt the best part of keeping fish going to the pet shop to purchase some. I am going to give you a few more tips here please read carefully.
1. While you are in the pet shop looking at the tanks of fish ask the shopkeeper if he has a quarantine tank, he should have because any sick fish should be in here receiving treatment.
2. If there is no tank for sick fish leave the shop and go elsewhere.
3. After all if he does not have quarantine tanks, it means he may be selling sick fish to the public.
4. Choose your fish wisely, the kids will try to tempt you into buying fish you do not need.
5. Stick to your guns, the worst thing you could do is get some fish that will outgrow your tank, or a species that will eat every other fish in sight.
I hope you do some research before dashing off to buy fish, there are plenty to pick from and it is nice to know what you want, it beats a shopkeeper selling you what he wants to sell you.
Above all have fun, the hobby is sure to grow on you the more you become involved with it, cheers.
Chris Emmerson full of aches pains and woes but sorry folks still around contrary to some folks wishes.
Why don't you pop over to my site http://www.bulldogsandallpets.com
have a look around folks I am sure you will find something to interest you, don't worry its not all to do with bulldogs.
Friday, November 9, 2007
Controlling Algae In Your Aquarium
By Richard Gilliland
First, let us see the factors that promote the growth of algae.
1. Sunlight - Just like for any other plant life, sunlight is absolutely essential for the growth of algae too. Though sunlight looks very good for the water of the aquarium, the same sunlight can cause algae to grow, which could be hazardous to the other living organisms. Not just direct sunlight, but any form of artificial aquarium light too would promote algal growth if it is kept on continuously for more than 10 hours per day.
2. Nutrient levels - Algae will grow faster if there is an overabundance of nutrients in your aquarium. All plants require nitrates, phosphates and silicates for their better growth. When you introduce nutrients into the aquarium, the levels of these nutrients might go higher, which would facilitate algal growth.
3. Plant population - Algae will grow faster in a tank if there are very few plants in the tank to compete with, because then they can get all the resources present in the tank.
Now that we know what the major factors promoting the growth of algae in aquatic tanks are, we can try to understand the methods that can be employed in order to check the growth of algae. The following are some algae control methods that can be employed even by amateur aquarium owners:-
1. There are some species of fish that eat algae. These fish are called as tank cleaner fishes. Some of the cheaply and popularly available tank cleaner fishes are the otos or dwarf suckermouth catfish, Siamese algae eater, bushy-nosed pleco, twig catfish and even the Japanese algae eating shrimp. You can introduce one of these fishes into the tank once it begins to show an algal infiltration. You can also include a hermit crab or a snail, since they feed on algae too.
2. Using a protein skimmer could be a very good option too. Protein skimmers are devices that remove the unwanted proteins from the tank environment. They will remove the dissolved organic compounds from the tank, which would otherwise promote the growth of algae. They bring the nutrient level down. Protein skimmers also reduce the concentration of carbon dioxide from the tank, which the algae, being plants, need for food preparation through photosynthesis.
3. Reduce the amount of actinic lighting in your aquarium setup. The actinic lighting is the blue light, and it helps to promote the growth of algae if used in excess. The ideal situation would be use 50% of actinic light mixed with 50% of white spectrum (daytime) light. Also, the light sources must be replaced periodically. All VHO (Very High Output) fluorescent lights need replacement after every eight months. Metal halide lamps will do with an annual replacement. It must also be remembered not to keep the artificial light source continuously on for more than 10 hours in a day.
4. Carbon dioxide is directly responsible for the growth of algae because, after all, they are plants. If your carbon dioxide filter has choked up, then there is a possibility that the level of carbon dioxide in the tank will be high. Using a pump in the aquarium to allow the water to circulate continuously is way of reducing on the amount of carbon dioxide in the tank. You can find out when the carbon dioxide level in the aquarium is going up by checking the alkalinity and pH value of the water within the tank. If these levels show an abnormal dip, then it is time to do something about increased carbon dioxide levels within the tank.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium phosban reactor on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and aquarium controllers.
First, let us see the factors that promote the growth of algae.
1. Sunlight - Just like for any other plant life, sunlight is absolutely essential for the growth of algae too. Though sunlight looks very good for the water of the aquarium, the same sunlight can cause algae to grow, which could be hazardous to the other living organisms. Not just direct sunlight, but any form of artificial aquarium light too would promote algal growth if it is kept on continuously for more than 10 hours per day.
2. Nutrient levels - Algae will grow faster if there is an overabundance of nutrients in your aquarium. All plants require nitrates, phosphates and silicates for their better growth. When you introduce nutrients into the aquarium, the levels of these nutrients might go higher, which would facilitate algal growth.
3. Plant population - Algae will grow faster in a tank if there are very few plants in the tank to compete with, because then they can get all the resources present in the tank.
Now that we know what the major factors promoting the growth of algae in aquatic tanks are, we can try to understand the methods that can be employed in order to check the growth of algae. The following are some algae control methods that can be employed even by amateur aquarium owners:-
1. There are some species of fish that eat algae. These fish are called as tank cleaner fishes. Some of the cheaply and popularly available tank cleaner fishes are the otos or dwarf suckermouth catfish, Siamese algae eater, bushy-nosed pleco, twig catfish and even the Japanese algae eating shrimp. You can introduce one of these fishes into the tank once it begins to show an algal infiltration. You can also include a hermit crab or a snail, since they feed on algae too.
2. Using a protein skimmer could be a very good option too. Protein skimmers are devices that remove the unwanted proteins from the tank environment. They will remove the dissolved organic compounds from the tank, which would otherwise promote the growth of algae. They bring the nutrient level down. Protein skimmers also reduce the concentration of carbon dioxide from the tank, which the algae, being plants, need for food preparation through photosynthesis.
3. Reduce the amount of actinic lighting in your aquarium setup. The actinic lighting is the blue light, and it helps to promote the growth of algae if used in excess. The ideal situation would be use 50% of actinic light mixed with 50% of white spectrum (daytime) light. Also, the light sources must be replaced periodically. All VHO (Very High Output) fluorescent lights need replacement after every eight months. Metal halide lamps will do with an annual replacement. It must also be remembered not to keep the artificial light source continuously on for more than 10 hours in a day.
4. Carbon dioxide is directly responsible for the growth of algae because, after all, they are plants. If your carbon dioxide filter has choked up, then there is a possibility that the level of carbon dioxide in the tank will be high. Using a pump in the aquarium to allow the water to circulate continuously is way of reducing on the amount of carbon dioxide in the tank. You can find out when the carbon dioxide level in the aquarium is going up by checking the alkalinity and pH value of the water within the tank. If these levels show an abnormal dip, then it is time to do something about increased carbon dioxide levels within the tank.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium phosban reactor on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and aquarium controllers.
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Marine Fish Aquarium Maintenance Tips
By Rinto Lim
Aquarium maintenance is an essential regular activity that provides a stable, healthy environment for fish and plants. The key to an effective program is to fulfill basic, simple tasks, which, when performed on a regular basis, take very little time and result in a clean, thriving aquarium display.
Ongoing biological processes can deplete water of essential ingredients and cause nitrate accumulation and other non-desirable substances. Most expert aquarists will agree that regular partial water changes represent a key element in fish health and condition. The following lists of maintenance activities and equipment serve as a general guide to maintaining a stable aquatic environment. Variations in percentage and frequency can exist due to stocking density and types of livestock kept.
Maintenance Tip:
1. Never change more than 40% of aquarium water at a time.
2. Never empty the entire aquarium to clean it. This causes undue stress on fish and will disturb the biological balance of your aquarium.
3. Only change half of your filter media at a time, to retain the established biological balance.
4. NEVER use soap or any detergent on your aquarium or any products used in or around your aquarium.
5. When cleaning the inside glass of your aquarium, avoid picking up pieces of gravel, as this will scratch the glass.
6. Limit the amount of times you put your hands in the water. Oils and films may cause stress in fish.
Maintenance Checklist:
Daily
1. Perform a visual check of the aquarium inhabitants to make sure that none of them are sick, hurt, or acting strangely.
2. Check that all the equipment is working properly(filters, heaters, lighting, etc.).
3. Remove any dead fish, plants, or obvious debris (such as plant leaves attached to intake strainer of filter).
Weekly
1. Perform a partial water change, 5 to 10% is recommended. Use a gravel washer to clean trapped waste from the gravel. Partial water changes on a regular basis will provide stable water quality and maintain ideal conditions.
2. Clean the glass inside and outside. This will eliminate any algae, and ensure full viewing pleasure.
3. Clean fluorescent tube(s) and fixture. This will maintain consistent light levels.
4. Test the aquarium water.
Monthly
1. Check supplies, food, water conditioners and all other regularly used items.
2. Perform filter maintenance and replace filter media as per manufacturer's recommendations and in accordance with the results of your water test.
Do this stuff, I'm sure your fish will be as happy and healthy as you want. Good Luck!
Find out more tips and guide about having, keeping, and maintaining your own saltwater aquarium here: Saltwater Aquarium Guide
Aquarium maintenance is an essential regular activity that provides a stable, healthy environment for fish and plants. The key to an effective program is to fulfill basic, simple tasks, which, when performed on a regular basis, take very little time and result in a clean, thriving aquarium display.
Ongoing biological processes can deplete water of essential ingredients and cause nitrate accumulation and other non-desirable substances. Most expert aquarists will agree that regular partial water changes represent a key element in fish health and condition. The following lists of maintenance activities and equipment serve as a general guide to maintaining a stable aquatic environment. Variations in percentage and frequency can exist due to stocking density and types of livestock kept.
Maintenance Tip:
1. Never change more than 40% of aquarium water at a time.
2. Never empty the entire aquarium to clean it. This causes undue stress on fish and will disturb the biological balance of your aquarium.
3. Only change half of your filter media at a time, to retain the established biological balance.
4. NEVER use soap or any detergent on your aquarium or any products used in or around your aquarium.
5. When cleaning the inside glass of your aquarium, avoid picking up pieces of gravel, as this will scratch the glass.
6. Limit the amount of times you put your hands in the water. Oils and films may cause stress in fish.
Maintenance Checklist:
Daily
1. Perform a visual check of the aquarium inhabitants to make sure that none of them are sick, hurt, or acting strangely.
2. Check that all the equipment is working properly(filters, heaters, lighting, etc.).
3. Remove any dead fish, plants, or obvious debris (such as plant leaves attached to intake strainer of filter).
Weekly
1. Perform a partial water change, 5 to 10% is recommended. Use a gravel washer to clean trapped waste from the gravel. Partial water changes on a regular basis will provide stable water quality and maintain ideal conditions.
2. Clean the glass inside and outside. This will eliminate any algae, and ensure full viewing pleasure.
3. Clean fluorescent tube(s) and fixture. This will maintain consistent light levels.
4. Test the aquarium water.
Monthly
1. Check supplies, food, water conditioners and all other regularly used items.
2. Perform filter maintenance and replace filter media as per manufacturer's recommendations and in accordance with the results of your water test.
Do this stuff, I'm sure your fish will be as happy and healthy as you want. Good Luck!
Find out more tips and guide about having, keeping, and maintaining your own saltwater aquarium here: Saltwater Aquarium Guide
Monday, October 29, 2007
What Is Reverse Osmosis And Why Is It Good For Your Aquarium?
By Richard Gilliland
Water used within the aquariums is generally tap water, which contains a lot of undesirable ingredients such as nitrates, phosphates, silicates and even chlorine and copper. Nitrates, phosphates and silicates are directly responsible for the promotion of algal growth in the reef tanks. Hence it becomes very important to reduce their concentration in the reef tank. The method used by most aquarium hobbyists for purifying the water in their reef tank and making it resemble seawater is to use a combination of reverse osmosis along with another method known as deionization.
In the deionization process, water is purified from all ions present in it, except the ions that are naturally present in water, such as the hydronium and the hydroxyl ions. All other radicals are removed. The reverse osmosis ensures that the solute molecules in the water are retained back, and the deionization extracts all the impurity ions. Hence, when the two methods are used in conjunction, all the solid impurities within the water are eliminated and the water becomes pure to the greatest extent. In addition, the water could be made to pass through a carbon filter, which will further remove all the organic impurities from the water.
One of the biggest advantages of the reverse osmosis and deionization conjunction is that it brings water to such a pure level that desired levels of nutrients can then be added. Water is made totally neutral when the two filtering processes are carried out, so that the pH can then be adjusted to the desired level by adding the requisite amount of minerals.
Why does reverse osmosis become necessary in a reef aquarium? The organisms of the reef aquarium, including the corals, can exude a lot of ions and solid ejaculates into the water environment during their various metabolic processes. These impurities actually move out from their bodies to the water through osmosis, because their skins are akin to semipermeable membranes. Due to the addition of so many ions and compounds into the water, the pH of the water shows an appreciable increase. This could be actually harmful for the life of the organisms within the reef tank. Most of these impurities contain carbon, which can affect the pH value of the tank environment vastly. Hence, it becomes necessary to bring the pH to an optimum level. Reverse osmosis and deionization in combination can perform this task to a very good level.
At the same time, reverse osmosis and deionization are popular among professional reef keepers and hobby reef keepers alike because of the low cost of the process. Using a reverse osmosis and deionization unit in a fair sized tank will cost about 18 to 20 cents per gallon, which is far better than any other filtration system for reef tanks.
However, there is some criticism against the reverse osmosis and deionization systems, such as they remove vital trace elements like calcium, magnesium and potassium from the water. These minerals are essential for the well-being of the reef tank inhabitants. Another criticism is that these units require the most maintenance. Yet, they do remain the most popular choice for aquarium owners due to the cheap cost of the mechanism and the quick, assured results they show in cleaning the water ecosystem well enough for the inhabitants to thrive.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Water used within the aquariums is generally tap water, which contains a lot of undesirable ingredients such as nitrates, phosphates, silicates and even chlorine and copper. Nitrates, phosphates and silicates are directly responsible for the promotion of algal growth in the reef tanks. Hence it becomes very important to reduce their concentration in the reef tank. The method used by most aquarium hobbyists for purifying the water in their reef tank and making it resemble seawater is to use a combination of reverse osmosis along with another method known as deionization.
In the deionization process, water is purified from all ions present in it, except the ions that are naturally present in water, such as the hydronium and the hydroxyl ions. All other radicals are removed. The reverse osmosis ensures that the solute molecules in the water are retained back, and the deionization extracts all the impurity ions. Hence, when the two methods are used in conjunction, all the solid impurities within the water are eliminated and the water becomes pure to the greatest extent. In addition, the water could be made to pass through a carbon filter, which will further remove all the organic impurities from the water.
One of the biggest advantages of the reverse osmosis and deionization conjunction is that it brings water to such a pure level that desired levels of nutrients can then be added. Water is made totally neutral when the two filtering processes are carried out, so that the pH can then be adjusted to the desired level by adding the requisite amount of minerals.
Why does reverse osmosis become necessary in a reef aquarium? The organisms of the reef aquarium, including the corals, can exude a lot of ions and solid ejaculates into the water environment during their various metabolic processes. These impurities actually move out from their bodies to the water through osmosis, because their skins are akin to semipermeable membranes. Due to the addition of so many ions and compounds into the water, the pH of the water shows an appreciable increase. This could be actually harmful for the life of the organisms within the reef tank. Most of these impurities contain carbon, which can affect the pH value of the tank environment vastly. Hence, it becomes necessary to bring the pH to an optimum level. Reverse osmosis and deionization in combination can perform this task to a very good level.
At the same time, reverse osmosis and deionization are popular among professional reef keepers and hobby reef keepers alike because of the low cost of the process. Using a reverse osmosis and deionization unit in a fair sized tank will cost about 18 to 20 cents per gallon, which is far better than any other filtration system for reef tanks.
However, there is some criticism against the reverse osmosis and deionization systems, such as they remove vital trace elements like calcium, magnesium and potassium from the water. These minerals are essential for the well-being of the reef tank inhabitants. Another criticism is that these units require the most maintenance. Yet, they do remain the most popular choice for aquarium owners due to the cheap cost of the mechanism and the quick, assured results they show in cleaning the water ecosystem well enough for the inhabitants to thrive.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Saturday, October 27, 2007
What Do I Need Fish Tank Stands For?
By Arturo Ronzon
There is a ton of things that could cause a person to feel the need of a good fish tank stand. Just think about the weight of a 55-gallon fish tank that is full of water. This is the main reason for the need. There are many more as well, including the need to keep your room stylish.
Not many people are wise enough to understand the structural demands needed to create a good fish tank stand. This is the main reason you will need to look into purchasing one. The weight of the tank plus the water inside of it puts too much strain on many home built stands. Unless you are a structural engineer, leave stand building to the experts. There are numerous affordable models available made of strong steel or wood that can handle the structural needs of a fish tank stand.
Another reason for a stand would be to make the fish tank itself look more stylish. Many people resist purchasing a tank because they feel it doesn't add beauty to a room. With the proper fish tank stand, there could nothing further from the truth. Many of the wooden stands designed today focus on adding beauty and style to your room. You should be able to find a wooden stand that matches the grain or finish of the wood already in your home. This will make the fish tank and stand further blend into the room and look as if it were always there. If most people only notice the fish tank and not the stand, you have been successful in finding the right one. A stand should not overpower the tank and its contents.
If you are making the large investment of a new fish tank, consider the added expense of a fish tank stand. There are many choices to choose from at almost pet supply stores, so finding the one that most meets your needs and budget shouldn't be too hard. If you are looking to provide the most stable stand to the tank, you may need a steel structure. If you are focused on the look of the stand, a wood stand is probably your best option.
For more information about Fish Tank Stands, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-2-Fish-Tank-Stands.html
There is a ton of things that could cause a person to feel the need of a good fish tank stand. Just think about the weight of a 55-gallon fish tank that is full of water. This is the main reason for the need. There are many more as well, including the need to keep your room stylish.
Not many people are wise enough to understand the structural demands needed to create a good fish tank stand. This is the main reason you will need to look into purchasing one. The weight of the tank plus the water inside of it puts too much strain on many home built stands. Unless you are a structural engineer, leave stand building to the experts. There are numerous affordable models available made of strong steel or wood that can handle the structural needs of a fish tank stand.
Another reason for a stand would be to make the fish tank itself look more stylish. Many people resist purchasing a tank because they feel it doesn't add beauty to a room. With the proper fish tank stand, there could nothing further from the truth. Many of the wooden stands designed today focus on adding beauty and style to your room. You should be able to find a wooden stand that matches the grain or finish of the wood already in your home. This will make the fish tank and stand further blend into the room and look as if it were always there. If most people only notice the fish tank and not the stand, you have been successful in finding the right one. A stand should not overpower the tank and its contents.
If you are making the large investment of a new fish tank, consider the added expense of a fish tank stand. There are many choices to choose from at almost pet supply stores, so finding the one that most meets your needs and budget shouldn't be too hard. If you are looking to provide the most stable stand to the tank, you may need a steel structure. If you are focused on the look of the stand, a wood stand is probably your best option.
For more information about Fish Tank Stands, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-2-Fish-Tank-Stands.html
Thursday, October 25, 2007
How Do You Properly Clean Your Hanging Fish Tank Filter?
By Arturo Ronzon
If you are looking to maintain the cleanest fish tank possible, you will need to learn how to clean your hanging fish tank filter. This process is fairly simple and will go far to keeping your tank as clean as it can be. Many people fail to see the importance of this chore and their tank and fish pay the price.
This process is so easy it can be performed in about half an hour. The first thing you need to do is to gently remove the filter from the aquarium and place it in a bucket. This will keep your floor dry as the filter will probably have water still in it.
You need to remove the old filter cartridge and throw it away. Take the filter unit itself apart. This includes the bowl and sponge inserts. Any part of the filter should be able to be removed. Examine each item closely to determine how dirty it is. If the filter seems to be extremely dirty and covered in algae or lime deposits, you may need to clean it a little more regular.
After you have taken apart the unit, you must now begin to clean it. It is recommended that you use a mild dish soap. This will help to prevent any harm to your fish if you fail to remove all of the cleaner before putting the filter back into the tank. Make certain to remove all of the dirty and algae-covered areas. This will ensure your new cartridge will work the most efficient and produce the best results.
When you put the filter back into the tank, it may be needed to add a little water to the filter tank. This will help in starting the filtering process for the new cartridge. Once all of the parts have been returned and the filter is put back into the water, it is now safe to turn the filter back on. This finishes the process and now your tank will provide healthy clean water for your fish and be better for you to look at.
For more information about Fish Tank Filter, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-1-Fish-Tank-Filter.html
If you are looking to maintain the cleanest fish tank possible, you will need to learn how to clean your hanging fish tank filter. This process is fairly simple and will go far to keeping your tank as clean as it can be. Many people fail to see the importance of this chore and their tank and fish pay the price.
This process is so easy it can be performed in about half an hour. The first thing you need to do is to gently remove the filter from the aquarium and place it in a bucket. This will keep your floor dry as the filter will probably have water still in it.
You need to remove the old filter cartridge and throw it away. Take the filter unit itself apart. This includes the bowl and sponge inserts. Any part of the filter should be able to be removed. Examine each item closely to determine how dirty it is. If the filter seems to be extremely dirty and covered in algae or lime deposits, you may need to clean it a little more regular.
After you have taken apart the unit, you must now begin to clean it. It is recommended that you use a mild dish soap. This will help to prevent any harm to your fish if you fail to remove all of the cleaner before putting the filter back into the tank. Make certain to remove all of the dirty and algae-covered areas. This will ensure your new cartridge will work the most efficient and produce the best results.
When you put the filter back into the tank, it may be needed to add a little water to the filter tank. This will help in starting the filtering process for the new cartridge. Once all of the parts have been returned and the filter is put back into the water, it is now safe to turn the filter back on. This finishes the process and now your tank will provide healthy clean water for your fish and be better for you to look at.
For more information about Fish Tank Filter, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-1-Fish-Tank-Filter.html
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Six Reasons Why You Should Never Neglect Changing Water In Your Aquarium Tank
By Richard Gilliland
pH Control � pH stands for hydrogen potenz. It is actually the concentration of hydrogen ions present in your aquarium tank, and as you know, hydrogen ion concentration refers to acidity of the water in the tank. As fishes live in the water, performing all their biological activities, the pH value is bound to change. The best way to ensure that the pH values remain conducive for the health of your fish is to change the water often.
Kh control � For the scientifically inclined people, Kh is the hydrolysis constant. Simply speaking, it is ability of water to buffer, which means, maintain a particular optimum level of the acids and bases in it. Changes occur in the fish tank over time due to the inclusion of chemicals produced from biological activity. That is one reason why the water has to be periodically changed.
Controlling nitrate levels � Ideally speaking, a saltwater aquarium must have a nitrate concentration of at the most 20 parts per million and a freshwater aquarium must have at the most 50 parts per million. Fish excretion is in the form of ammonia, which increases the nitrate level of the tank. There are protein skimmers available that can help to keep the nitrate levels to optimal levels within the tank. But these skimmers will not be able to remove the organic debris that collects in the tank from time to time. That is the reason why complete water changes become necessary. In fact, aquarium sellers do stress upon nitrate level maintenance as the most important reason for making periodical water changes.
Detoxifying the aquariums � Dead aquatic organisms, byproducts of metabolic activities in the fish and other aquarium residents and the excretion products of your fish will definitely introduce some toxic products in your aquarium tank. Some toxic materials can also enter from the external environment, such as when things drop into your tank or when some microorganisms enter through the air. They could play havoc with the health of your delicate fish. You cannot effectively monitor such toxic intrusions. The best way is to change water.
Cleaning aquarium accessories � If you have live elements in your aquarium tank such as live sand, live rock, sponges, bio balls, etc. it is best to provide them with clean water of aquarium standard to filter out the wastes that they produce from time to time.
Controlling algal growth � Algae are microscopic plants that grow in all types of aquatic environment. They grow faster in aquariums because the water there is stagnant and favorable for their growth. However, algae can pollute the water in the closed environment to drastic levels, which could also mean health problems to your fish. Not only that, algae will compete with the fish with the resources available in your aquarium. If you change the water from your aquarium regularly, you are also removing the algae that have grown in them.
Hence, water changes in your aquarium are a very important aspect of aquarium cleaning. They ensure that your fish live longer and healthier in the home you provide them.
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pH Control � pH stands for hydrogen potenz. It is actually the concentration of hydrogen ions present in your aquarium tank, and as you know, hydrogen ion concentration refers to acidity of the water in the tank. As fishes live in the water, performing all their biological activities, the pH value is bound to change. The best way to ensure that the pH values remain conducive for the health of your fish is to change the water often.
Kh control � For the scientifically inclined people, Kh is the hydrolysis constant. Simply speaking, it is ability of water to buffer, which means, maintain a particular optimum level of the acids and bases in it. Changes occur in the fish tank over time due to the inclusion of chemicals produced from biological activity. That is one reason why the water has to be periodically changed.
Controlling nitrate levels � Ideally speaking, a saltwater aquarium must have a nitrate concentration of at the most 20 parts per million and a freshwater aquarium must have at the most 50 parts per million. Fish excretion is in the form of ammonia, which increases the nitrate level of the tank. There are protein skimmers available that can help to keep the nitrate levels to optimal levels within the tank. But these skimmers will not be able to remove the organic debris that collects in the tank from time to time. That is the reason why complete water changes become necessary. In fact, aquarium sellers do stress upon nitrate level maintenance as the most important reason for making periodical water changes.
Detoxifying the aquariums � Dead aquatic organisms, byproducts of metabolic activities in the fish and other aquarium residents and the excretion products of your fish will definitely introduce some toxic products in your aquarium tank. Some toxic materials can also enter from the external environment, such as when things drop into your tank or when some microorganisms enter through the air. They could play havoc with the health of your delicate fish. You cannot effectively monitor such toxic intrusions. The best way is to change water.
Cleaning aquarium accessories � If you have live elements in your aquarium tank such as live sand, live rock, sponges, bio balls, etc. it is best to provide them with clean water of aquarium standard to filter out the wastes that they produce from time to time.
Controlling algal growth � Algae are microscopic plants that grow in all types of aquatic environment. They grow faster in aquariums because the water there is stagnant and favorable for their growth. However, algae can pollute the water in the closed environment to drastic levels, which could also mean health problems to your fish. Not only that, algae will compete with the fish with the resources available in your aquarium. If you change the water from your aquarium regularly, you are also removing the algae that have grown in them.
Hence, water changes in your aquarium are a very important aspect of aquarium cleaning. They ensure that your fish live longer and healthier in the home you provide them.
Credit-Wisdom.com Provides Expert opinions and reviews to help you Compare and Apply for a Credit Card - 0% apr credit cards with Credit-Wisdom.com - Unraveling the best in Personal and Business Credit Card Offer.
Friday, October 19, 2007
What Supplies Do I Need for My Tropical Fish Tank?
By Arturo Ronzon
If you are in the market for a tropical fish tank, and aren't sure what supplies you will need to get at the pet store, know that there is a long list. To properly care for your tank and fish, you will need several things including a filter, heaters, and chemical purifying agents. The lack of any one of these supplies could lead to the death of the fish.
Any person operating a fish tank would be best advised to get a filter. This works greatly in ensuring the tank is kept clean and clear of waste and debris. Basically, the filter sucks in the water and cleans it before returning it to the tank. This keeps the water in the tank clear and allows the fish to live healthier. A clean tank could add years to the life of your tropical fish.
Tropical fish are used to swimming in warmer water. A tank heater will be needed to keep the water in your tank at the proper temperature. The most common form of a heater for tropical tanks is simply a light that warms the water from above. This is the cheapest way to keep your tropical tank warm enough for your pets.
Another way to keep your tank healthy is through the use of chemical cleaning agents. These chemicals usually pose no threat to the fish, but work well in cleaning and purifying the water. Chemical agents are usually sold as blocks or powder that dissolves into the fish tank in little or no time at all.
Any of these supplies can be bought at your local pet store. The absence of the proper equipment is the main reason your tropical fish will not stay healthy and live long. Before you invest money in tropical fish, make sure that you have all the things you need to keep the tank clean and working properly. This will keep your tropical fish healthy and happy, and save you a lot of money in replacing them.
For more information about Tropical Fish Tank Supply, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/Tropical-Fish-Tank-Supply.html
If you are in the market for a tropical fish tank, and aren't sure what supplies you will need to get at the pet store, know that there is a long list. To properly care for your tank and fish, you will need several things including a filter, heaters, and chemical purifying agents. The lack of any one of these supplies could lead to the death of the fish.
Any person operating a fish tank would be best advised to get a filter. This works greatly in ensuring the tank is kept clean and clear of waste and debris. Basically, the filter sucks in the water and cleans it before returning it to the tank. This keeps the water in the tank clear and allows the fish to live healthier. A clean tank could add years to the life of your tropical fish.
Tropical fish are used to swimming in warmer water. A tank heater will be needed to keep the water in your tank at the proper temperature. The most common form of a heater for tropical tanks is simply a light that warms the water from above. This is the cheapest way to keep your tropical tank warm enough for your pets.
Another way to keep your tank healthy is through the use of chemical cleaning agents. These chemicals usually pose no threat to the fish, but work well in cleaning and purifying the water. Chemical agents are usually sold as blocks or powder that dissolves into the fish tank in little or no time at all.
Any of these supplies can be bought at your local pet store. The absence of the proper equipment is the main reason your tropical fish will not stay healthy and live long. Before you invest money in tropical fish, make sure that you have all the things you need to keep the tank clean and working properly. This will keep your tropical fish healthy and happy, and save you a lot of money in replacing them.
For more information about Tropical Fish Tank Supply, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/Tropical-Fish-Tank-Supply.html
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Why Should You Have Ozone In The Reef Aquarium?
By Richard Gilliland
Ozone is present in the higher reaches of the earth's atmosphere � its density begins from 16 km above the earth's crust and it begins thinning out after 23 km. In between these atmospheric limits, ozone is continuously produced due to the action of sun's ultraviolet rays on oxygen. Ozone is also produced during lightings, and the fresh air we get to smell immediately after a thunderstorm has occurred is generally the smell of ozone.
Chemical experts have always maintained that ozone is fresher and more life-sustaining than oxygen. Since aquarium inhabitants also live by taking in the oxygen that is dissolved in their aquatic surroundings, they will live markedly better if they are provided ozone in their aquarium. Of course, getting an ozone supply for an aquarium can be very expensive, but it could be money well invested, especially if you really mean to give a good and healthy life to your reef tank inhabitants.
The following are some of the positive benefits that ozone contributes to a reef tank aquarium:-
1. Ozone is a purifying agent. Normally, we use chlorine in aquarium media to take care of unwanted inhabitants like bacteria, algae, viruses and other such microorganisms. But ozone can treat this water thousand times better than chlorine can. If you think about it, this can be how you can actually save money, since you will need only a little ozone to purify your tank than the large quantity of chlorine you will have to use.
2. Ozone helps in the eliminations of wastes that the aquatic inhabitants will produce. It oxidizes the pollutants in the tank and brings them to a form from which they can be discarded properly.
3. Ozone is also a disinfecting agent. Since it can combat with most pathogens, ozone can make the residents of the aquarium live healthier and longer.
4. Ozone enhances the quality of the water. Ozone is a fresh gas, present in the higher realms of the atmosphere where it is purer. The same kind of purity is brought into the reef tank when ozone is used in it. Ozonized water is odorless, colorless and tasteless.
5. Ozone does not leave chemical wastes in the water when it is passed through it. That means, when water is ozonized, there will be effectively less amount of wastes and chemical discharges into the water.
Ozone can be continuously produced in aquarium tanks by machines that are known as ozonizers. There are different types of ozonizers based on the principle on which they work, such as the corona discharge ozonizers and the ultraviolet ozonizers. The corona discharge ozonizers can produce stables quantities of ozone for a long time, and so they are better for bigger aquariums.
They are also costlier. For home purposes, ozonizers that generate ozone using ultraviolet lamps are much more suitable and economical.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Ozone is present in the higher reaches of the earth's atmosphere � its density begins from 16 km above the earth's crust and it begins thinning out after 23 km. In between these atmospheric limits, ozone is continuously produced due to the action of sun's ultraviolet rays on oxygen. Ozone is also produced during lightings, and the fresh air we get to smell immediately after a thunderstorm has occurred is generally the smell of ozone.
Chemical experts have always maintained that ozone is fresher and more life-sustaining than oxygen. Since aquarium inhabitants also live by taking in the oxygen that is dissolved in their aquatic surroundings, they will live markedly better if they are provided ozone in their aquarium. Of course, getting an ozone supply for an aquarium can be very expensive, but it could be money well invested, especially if you really mean to give a good and healthy life to your reef tank inhabitants.
The following are some of the positive benefits that ozone contributes to a reef tank aquarium:-
1. Ozone is a purifying agent. Normally, we use chlorine in aquarium media to take care of unwanted inhabitants like bacteria, algae, viruses and other such microorganisms. But ozone can treat this water thousand times better than chlorine can. If you think about it, this can be how you can actually save money, since you will need only a little ozone to purify your tank than the large quantity of chlorine you will have to use.
2. Ozone helps in the eliminations of wastes that the aquatic inhabitants will produce. It oxidizes the pollutants in the tank and brings them to a form from which they can be discarded properly.
3. Ozone is also a disinfecting agent. Since it can combat with most pathogens, ozone can make the residents of the aquarium live healthier and longer.
4. Ozone enhances the quality of the water. Ozone is a fresh gas, present in the higher realms of the atmosphere where it is purer. The same kind of purity is brought into the reef tank when ozone is used in it. Ozonized water is odorless, colorless and tasteless.
5. Ozone does not leave chemical wastes in the water when it is passed through it. That means, when water is ozonized, there will be effectively less amount of wastes and chemical discharges into the water.
Ozone can be continuously produced in aquarium tanks by machines that are known as ozonizers. There are different types of ozonizers based on the principle on which they work, such as the corona discharge ozonizers and the ultraviolet ozonizers. The corona discharge ozonizers can produce stables quantities of ozone for a long time, and so they are better for bigger aquariums.
They are also costlier. For home purposes, ozonizers that generate ozone using ultraviolet lamps are much more suitable and economical.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Fish's Use of Our Life
By Praba Kar
High levels can cause severe stress, whereas slightly elevated levels can contribute to chronic stress. Temperature fluctuations are a much under appreciated stressor of fish. Most tropical freshwater and marine fish do not tolerate temperature changes very well. Many tanks that are not set up properly will have over the recommended maximum of one degree of temperature fluctuation in a 24-hour period due to room temperature, lights, and equipment. The daily fluctuations will create chronic stress as will having too low or too high of a temperature in the tank for the species of fish present.
Many fish adapt to long-term changes, but there are limits. pH levels that change abruptly cause acute stress and continually elevated or lowered pH levels can cause chronic stress. pH changes of more than 1.5 points below or above recommended levels are going to have a negative effect over time and should never be considered acceptable.
Their bodies work hard to maintain the osmotic gradient between themselves and their environment. Wild fish live within very specific salinity levels (levels of salt in the water). If their environmental salinity is not specific to their needs and is not held at a steady level, they have to work harder to maintain their osmotic gradient, which generates chronic stress.
Oxygen levels that are below recommended levels can cause fish to 'breathe' faster than optimum and this can result in chronic stress. Obviously, very low oxygen levels can lead to severe short-term stress and death.
There should be two suitable hiding spaces for every fish in the tank, otherwise, there are going to be fish that are stressed and bullied. Remember that unlike their environment in the wild, these fish are confined and cannot get away from aggressors. Aggression is a very real problem in many tanks that leads to many injuries, infections, and death. For more information www.indomunch.com
Representing Fish�s Use of Our Life in the website http://www.indomunch.com/
High levels can cause severe stress, whereas slightly elevated levels can contribute to chronic stress. Temperature fluctuations are a much under appreciated stressor of fish. Most tropical freshwater and marine fish do not tolerate temperature changes very well. Many tanks that are not set up properly will have over the recommended maximum of one degree of temperature fluctuation in a 24-hour period due to room temperature, lights, and equipment. The daily fluctuations will create chronic stress as will having too low or too high of a temperature in the tank for the species of fish present.
Many fish adapt to long-term changes, but there are limits. pH levels that change abruptly cause acute stress and continually elevated or lowered pH levels can cause chronic stress. pH changes of more than 1.5 points below or above recommended levels are going to have a negative effect over time and should never be considered acceptable.
Their bodies work hard to maintain the osmotic gradient between themselves and their environment. Wild fish live within very specific salinity levels (levels of salt in the water). If their environmental salinity is not specific to their needs and is not held at a steady level, they have to work harder to maintain their osmotic gradient, which generates chronic stress.
Oxygen levels that are below recommended levels can cause fish to 'breathe' faster than optimum and this can result in chronic stress. Obviously, very low oxygen levels can lead to severe short-term stress and death.
There should be two suitable hiding spaces for every fish in the tank, otherwise, there are going to be fish that are stressed and bullied. Remember that unlike their environment in the wild, these fish are confined and cannot get away from aggressors. Aggression is a very real problem in many tanks that leads to many injuries, infections, and death. For more information www.indomunch.com
Representing Fish�s Use of Our Life in the website http://www.indomunch.com/
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Setting Up Your First Saltwater Fish Tank Is Easier Than You Think
By Scott Cole
For many people thinking about setting up an aquarium, the immediate thought is to avoid saltwater tanks because they are to complicated. Saltwater or marine aquariums once setup can be as complex or as simple as you want them to be. You don�t have to have a tank full of corals and delicate invertebrates to enjoy the vibrant colors found in saltwater tanks. Whether you are new to the aquarium hobby or have kept tropical fish in the past, anyone can have a saltwater tank. To be successful does not mean you just throw some water into a tank and head to the local pet store however; some preparation and thought do need to go into setting up your tank.
Without getting too complex, the basic equipment you will need in addition to a tank will include a good quality filter, a heater and lighting. Saltwater tanks will also require that you purchase a hydrometer to measure salt levels in the water. I don�t want to give you the impression that this is an all-inclusive list; this is just the basics to get you up and running. Most local pet stores sell aquarium starter kits that include all the basic equipment. Some larger pet stores will even have kits setup specifically for saltwater fish.
When selecting which equipment to purchase there are a couple things to keep in mind. The most important item you purchase is not the tank or the lights it is the filter. The filter is the heart of your tank. A poor or inadequate filter will quickly lead to the demise of your tank inhabitants. There are a number or different types of filters on the market from canisters and wet-dry to the cheaper �waterfall� types that hang on the back of the tank. For a fish only tank, any of these will work. I recommend getting a filter that is sized for a tank slightly bigger than the one you are setting up. By up-sizing the filter, you are not maxing out its performance and it will easily handle the biological load of the tank provided you follow the manufacture recommended cleaning cycle.
Next let�s discuss the tanks lighting. What good is it to have beautiful, vibrant saltwater fish if you can�t see them? Before you go out and buy an expensive light fixture there are a couple of things to consider. Look at the location of the tank in your home and consider how much natural sun light your tank will receive during the day. A tank that receives good natural lighting through out the day may not need to be artificially lit until the evening hours. Consider next the needs of the tanks inhabitants. Most fish do not require high intensity lighting to be happy and healthy. A lighting fixture utilizing compact florescent tubes should be adequate. Since this article deals with a simple fish only marine tank, specialty lighting for corals and invertebrates is not needed.
Once you have setup your tank and filled it with water, it�s time to add the salt. Your local pet store will most likely carry a couple of different brands of salt mix for your tank. Most commercially available mixes contain the same components and will work just fine. Slowly add the salt to your tank until the reading on your hydrometer shows a specific gravity in the range of 1.020 to 1.023. You can typically begin to add fish in a couple of days but it is a good practice to allow the tank to �cycle� for the next two weeks prior to adding fish. Before adding any fish it is a good idea to recheck the specific gravity of the water and make sure your water temperature is comfortable for the fish your planning to add. When adding fish to a new tank it is a good practice to start with heartier fish species like Damsels. Damsels are cheaper and can adapt to harsher water conditions typical in a new tank. After a couple of weeks, you can begin to add more fish.
For additional information please visit http://saltwaterfishtanksetup.blogspot.com/
For many people thinking about setting up an aquarium, the immediate thought is to avoid saltwater tanks because they are to complicated. Saltwater or marine aquariums once setup can be as complex or as simple as you want them to be. You don�t have to have a tank full of corals and delicate invertebrates to enjoy the vibrant colors found in saltwater tanks. Whether you are new to the aquarium hobby or have kept tropical fish in the past, anyone can have a saltwater tank. To be successful does not mean you just throw some water into a tank and head to the local pet store however; some preparation and thought do need to go into setting up your tank.
Without getting too complex, the basic equipment you will need in addition to a tank will include a good quality filter, a heater and lighting. Saltwater tanks will also require that you purchase a hydrometer to measure salt levels in the water. I don�t want to give you the impression that this is an all-inclusive list; this is just the basics to get you up and running. Most local pet stores sell aquarium starter kits that include all the basic equipment. Some larger pet stores will even have kits setup specifically for saltwater fish.
When selecting which equipment to purchase there are a couple things to keep in mind. The most important item you purchase is not the tank or the lights it is the filter. The filter is the heart of your tank. A poor or inadequate filter will quickly lead to the demise of your tank inhabitants. There are a number or different types of filters on the market from canisters and wet-dry to the cheaper �waterfall� types that hang on the back of the tank. For a fish only tank, any of these will work. I recommend getting a filter that is sized for a tank slightly bigger than the one you are setting up. By up-sizing the filter, you are not maxing out its performance and it will easily handle the biological load of the tank provided you follow the manufacture recommended cleaning cycle.
Next let�s discuss the tanks lighting. What good is it to have beautiful, vibrant saltwater fish if you can�t see them? Before you go out and buy an expensive light fixture there are a couple of things to consider. Look at the location of the tank in your home and consider how much natural sun light your tank will receive during the day. A tank that receives good natural lighting through out the day may not need to be artificially lit until the evening hours. Consider next the needs of the tanks inhabitants. Most fish do not require high intensity lighting to be happy and healthy. A lighting fixture utilizing compact florescent tubes should be adequate. Since this article deals with a simple fish only marine tank, specialty lighting for corals and invertebrates is not needed.
Once you have setup your tank and filled it with water, it�s time to add the salt. Your local pet store will most likely carry a couple of different brands of salt mix for your tank. Most commercially available mixes contain the same components and will work just fine. Slowly add the salt to your tank until the reading on your hydrometer shows a specific gravity in the range of 1.020 to 1.023. You can typically begin to add fish in a couple of days but it is a good practice to allow the tank to �cycle� for the next two weeks prior to adding fish. Before adding any fish it is a good idea to recheck the specific gravity of the water and make sure your water temperature is comfortable for the fish your planning to add. When adding fish to a new tank it is a good practice to start with heartier fish species like Damsels. Damsels are cheaper and can adapt to harsher water conditions typical in a new tank. After a couple of weeks, you can begin to add more fish.
For additional information please visit http://saltwaterfishtanksetup.blogspot.com/
Thursday, October 11, 2007
The Secrets Of Breeding Discus As A Hobby
By Pius Ephenus
Discus breeding as a hobby has become so popular worldwide that discus fish keeping has turn into a multi-million dollar industry and discus aquariums is fast becoming the home of this exotic fish. For a lot of breeders, raising this exotic fish as hobby brings huge satisfaction especially when they manage to get some cute baby discus too. It is quite rewarding to see what start as hobby raising discus has turn out to be a lifetime experience. Now what's special about keeping discus as a hobby? Fish breeding is a challenge and many aquarists find that attractive. What make discus fish special as a pet is it beauty and unique social behavior.
It is quite a surprise to those who breed discus as a hobby to notice after sometime that discus begin to show signs of connection to the environment outside the tank in which they reside in. You know breeding discus as a hobby require spending time attending to the welfare of the fish(i.e feeding, checking the tank constantly,lighting etc). It is said that discus recognize it owner quite quickly and they can get close to you as far as even to eat from your hand. It has also been noticed by some discus owner while breeding them that it watch them move round the room and even react to Tv noise.
Apart from their shy and generally peaceful aquarium inhabitants, discus are sensitive to stress and disturbance or lack of protection, they like quiet and close community with other fellow fish from the same species. As an aquarist, you may need to pay close attention to discus cohabitants especially since they like close communities and living with other fish from the same species. It has also been claimed by some aquarists that keeping them together with other species like angelfish will introduce parasites or diseases and small characides like tetras. It is noticeable that the dominant discus would be the first to couple and followed by others if Aquarium water chemistry, Feeding, Lighting and other breeding conditions are met. Once you've notice the couple while breeding discus, you should move pairs into another tank to allow them to raise fry.
Those who takes breeding discus as a hobby, it is important discus living conditions are constantly monitored. You should be careful with the lighting because too much light will warm the water above accepted level and reduces the oxygen level. There's not a lot of difference between breeding discus as a hobby or as a professional, discus require the same amount of attention in respective of which side you belong.
Victor Ephenus owns Discus Fish Resources website discusfishresources.com with informations helping beginners and advanced fish keepers with discus problems including keeping and breeding them. Please visit the site for more information on discus fish and breeding discus.
Discus breeding as a hobby has become so popular worldwide that discus fish keeping has turn into a multi-million dollar industry and discus aquariums is fast becoming the home of this exotic fish. For a lot of breeders, raising this exotic fish as hobby brings huge satisfaction especially when they manage to get some cute baby discus too. It is quite rewarding to see what start as hobby raising discus has turn out to be a lifetime experience. Now what's special about keeping discus as a hobby? Fish breeding is a challenge and many aquarists find that attractive. What make discus fish special as a pet is it beauty and unique social behavior.
It is quite a surprise to those who breed discus as a hobby to notice after sometime that discus begin to show signs of connection to the environment outside the tank in which they reside in. You know breeding discus as a hobby require spending time attending to the welfare of the fish(i.e feeding, checking the tank constantly,lighting etc). It is said that discus recognize it owner quite quickly and they can get close to you as far as even to eat from your hand. It has also been noticed by some discus owner while breeding them that it watch them move round the room and even react to Tv noise.
Apart from their shy and generally peaceful aquarium inhabitants, discus are sensitive to stress and disturbance or lack of protection, they like quiet and close community with other fellow fish from the same species. As an aquarist, you may need to pay close attention to discus cohabitants especially since they like close communities and living with other fish from the same species. It has also been claimed by some aquarists that keeping them together with other species like angelfish will introduce parasites or diseases and small characides like tetras. It is noticeable that the dominant discus would be the first to couple and followed by others if Aquarium water chemistry, Feeding, Lighting and other breeding conditions are met. Once you've notice the couple while breeding discus, you should move pairs into another tank to allow them to raise fry.
Those who takes breeding discus as a hobby, it is important discus living conditions are constantly monitored. You should be careful with the lighting because too much light will warm the water above accepted level and reduces the oxygen level. There's not a lot of difference between breeding discus as a hobby or as a professional, discus require the same amount of attention in respective of which side you belong.
Victor Ephenus owns Discus Fish Resources website discusfishresources.com with informations helping beginners and advanced fish keepers with discus problems including keeping and breeding them. Please visit the site for more information on discus fish and breeding discus.
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Puffers - Freshwater, Brackish Or Marine?
By Rodrigo Flores
The reason most puffers die within the first months of captivity is that the local fish store fails tremendously to inform their customers about the requirements of their new fish. I have seen many puffers either mislabled or not labled at all in fresh water tanks, slowlly dying. The key is to know what species you are getting (even if your fish store does not tell you) and to know what kind of water they need.
This is a quick guide to determine which puffers are from freshwater, brackish and marine.
Fresh water Puffers:
Auriglobus modestus; --- Bronze puffer
Carinotetraodon borneensis; --- Bornean redeyed puffer
Carinotetraodon irrubesco; --- Red tailed redeye puffer
Carinotetraodon salivator; --- Striped redeye puffer
Carinotetraodon travancoricus; --- Dwarf Puffer
Colomesus asellus; --- South American Puffer
Monotrete abei; --- Abei Puffer
Tetraodon baileyi; --- 'Hairy' puffer
Tetraodon barbatus
Tetraodon cochinchinensis; --- Fangs Puffer
Tetraodon cutcutia; --- Common Puffer
Tetraodon duboisi; --- Dubois' Freshwater Puffer
Tetraodon lineatus; ---Fahaka puffer
Tetraodon mbu; --- Mbu Puffer
Tetraodon miurus; --- Congo Puffer
Tetraodon palembangensis; --- Palembang Puffer
Tetraodon pustulatus; --- Cross River Puffer
Tetraodon suvattii; --- Arrowhead Puffer
Tetraodon turgidus; --- Brown Puffer
Brackish Puffers
Colomesus psittacus; --- Banded Puffer
Tetraodon biocellatus; --- Figure Eight Puffer
Tetraodon erythrotaenia; --- Red-striped Toadfish
Tetraodon fluviatilis; --- Ceylon Puffer
Tetraodon nigroviridis; --- Green Spotted Puffer
Tetraodon Sabahensis; --- Giant Spotted Puffer
Marine Puffers
Arothron caerulopunctatus; --- Blue-spotted Puffer
Arothron diadematus; --- Masked Puffer
Arothron hispidus; --- White-spotted puffer
Arothron manilensis; --- Narrow-lined Puffer
Arothron mappa; --- Map puffer
Arothron meleagris; --- Guineafowl Puffer
Arothron nigropunctatus; --- Dog-faced Puffer
Arothron reticularis; --- Reticulated Puffer
Arothron stellatus; --- Starry Toadfish
Canthigaster bennetti; --- Bennett's Sharpnose Puffer
Canthigaster coronata; --- Crowned Puffer
Canthigaster papua; --- Papuan Toby
Canthigaster rostrata; --- Caribbean Sharpnose Puffer
Canthigaster solandri; --- Spotted Sharpnose
Canthigaster valentini; --- Saddled Puffer
Diodon holocanthus; --- Porcupine Puffer
Sphoeroides annulatus; --- Bullseye Puffer
Sphoeroides marmoratus; --- Guinean Puffer
Takifugu niphobles; --- Niphobles Puffer
Takifugu oblongus; --- Lattice Blaasop
Takifugu ocellatus; --- Fugu Puffer
Takifugu pardalis; --- Panther Puffer
Takifugu rubripes; --- Tiger Puffer
Check out my other articles and some fish pics in my blog: http://www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
The reason most puffers die within the first months of captivity is that the local fish store fails tremendously to inform their customers about the requirements of their new fish. I have seen many puffers either mislabled or not labled at all in fresh water tanks, slowlly dying. The key is to know what species you are getting (even if your fish store does not tell you) and to know what kind of water they need.
This is a quick guide to determine which puffers are from freshwater, brackish and marine.
Fresh water Puffers:
Auriglobus modestus; --- Bronze puffer
Carinotetraodon borneensis; --- Bornean redeyed puffer
Carinotetraodon irrubesco; --- Red tailed redeye puffer
Carinotetraodon salivator; --- Striped redeye puffer
Carinotetraodon travancoricus; --- Dwarf Puffer
Colomesus asellus; --- South American Puffer
Monotrete abei; --- Abei Puffer
Tetraodon baileyi; --- 'Hairy' puffer
Tetraodon barbatus
Tetraodon cochinchinensis; --- Fangs Puffer
Tetraodon cutcutia; --- Common Puffer
Tetraodon duboisi; --- Dubois' Freshwater Puffer
Tetraodon lineatus; ---Fahaka puffer
Tetraodon mbu; --- Mbu Puffer
Tetraodon miurus; --- Congo Puffer
Tetraodon palembangensis; --- Palembang Puffer
Tetraodon pustulatus; --- Cross River Puffer
Tetraodon suvattii; --- Arrowhead Puffer
Tetraodon turgidus; --- Brown Puffer
Brackish Puffers
Colomesus psittacus; --- Banded Puffer
Tetraodon biocellatus; --- Figure Eight Puffer
Tetraodon erythrotaenia; --- Red-striped Toadfish
Tetraodon fluviatilis; --- Ceylon Puffer
Tetraodon nigroviridis; --- Green Spotted Puffer
Tetraodon Sabahensis; --- Giant Spotted Puffer
Marine Puffers
Arothron caerulopunctatus; --- Blue-spotted Puffer
Arothron diadematus; --- Masked Puffer
Arothron hispidus; --- White-spotted puffer
Arothron manilensis; --- Narrow-lined Puffer
Arothron mappa; --- Map puffer
Arothron meleagris; --- Guineafowl Puffer
Arothron nigropunctatus; --- Dog-faced Puffer
Arothron reticularis; --- Reticulated Puffer
Arothron stellatus; --- Starry Toadfish
Canthigaster bennetti; --- Bennett's Sharpnose Puffer
Canthigaster coronata; --- Crowned Puffer
Canthigaster papua; --- Papuan Toby
Canthigaster rostrata; --- Caribbean Sharpnose Puffer
Canthigaster solandri; --- Spotted Sharpnose
Canthigaster valentini; --- Saddled Puffer
Diodon holocanthus; --- Porcupine Puffer
Sphoeroides annulatus; --- Bullseye Puffer
Sphoeroides marmoratus; --- Guinean Puffer
Takifugu niphobles; --- Niphobles Puffer
Takifugu oblongus; --- Lattice Blaasop
Takifugu ocellatus; --- Fugu Puffer
Takifugu pardalis; --- Panther Puffer
Takifugu rubripes; --- Tiger Puffer
Check out my other articles and some fish pics in my blog: http://www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
Sunday, October 7, 2007
How to Prevent Betta Fish Fin Rot
By Jason Osborn
Fin rot is one of the most common things that you have to watch out for with your betta. Of course the best way to deal with fin rot is to prevent it from ever happening. So how do you prevent fin rot from happening? Here are a few great tips.
The fist thing that you need to know is that fin rot is a bacterial infection that happens when a torn fin drags across the gravel. The tail is the most common place for this to happen. Your betta's fins rest on the tank or floor and soak up the bad bacteria.
The simple solution for this is to keep both the water and the gravel clean. One trick that you can do as well is to toys like caves, silk plants, snail shells, or other things that your betta can rest on. Bettas like to rest so this is a great way to help make sure that they stay off the gravel.
So on to the gravel and water cleaning. Use a turkey baster to remove the gravel scum. Do this as often as you think about it. As far as the water, change it every one to two days and add a little aquarium salt to make the water less hospitable for bacteria.
You can use medications for fin rot; however these medications can often have side effects that could make things worse. This is why I recommend using fresh water and salt as your first line of defence against fin rot.
Do you want to take the best care of your betta fish?
Click here to discover the secrets of giving the best care to your betta: Betta Fish Care
Fin rot is one of the most common things that you have to watch out for with your betta. Of course the best way to deal with fin rot is to prevent it from ever happening. So how do you prevent fin rot from happening? Here are a few great tips.
The fist thing that you need to know is that fin rot is a bacterial infection that happens when a torn fin drags across the gravel. The tail is the most common place for this to happen. Your betta's fins rest on the tank or floor and soak up the bad bacteria.
The simple solution for this is to keep both the water and the gravel clean. One trick that you can do as well is to toys like caves, silk plants, snail shells, or other things that your betta can rest on. Bettas like to rest so this is a great way to help make sure that they stay off the gravel.
So on to the gravel and water cleaning. Use a turkey baster to remove the gravel scum. Do this as often as you think about it. As far as the water, change it every one to two days and add a little aquarium salt to make the water less hospitable for bacteria.
You can use medications for fin rot; however these medications can often have side effects that could make things worse. This is why I recommend using fresh water and salt as your first line of defence against fin rot.
Do you want to take the best care of your betta fish?
Click here to discover the secrets of giving the best care to your betta: Betta Fish Care
Friday, October 5, 2007
5 Top Ways to Care For Your Betta Fish
By Jason Osborn
Betta fish are a very popular type of fish. They are also called Siamese fighting fish. Betta fish are fairly simple to care for which makes it a great fish to have if you don't want to have a lot of maintainance.
One of the first things you should do when you bring your betta fish home is to get familiar with it's movements and moods. This is important so you can know when something is wrong with your betta fish.
Here are 5 great ways to make sure you take great care of your betta fish.
1. Make sure that you keep your betta in the cleanest water possible. You don't need a filtration system however, you do need to keep the water clean so that your betta fish doesn't get any fungal or bacterial infections. The best way to keep the water clean is to replace one third of the water every two or three days. Make sure that you use aged water, water set out for 24 hours, to replace the old water.
2. Your betta fish needs to get plenty of oxygen so make sure that the bowl you keep your betta in has a large opening at the top. Also make sure that you keep your fish in a bowl large enough where it's not bumping into the edges as it swims.
3. Make sure the you keep the PH levels of your tank at exactly 7.0. If your not sure what the PH levels are, you can get a test kit at your local pet store.
4. Watch out for jumping fish! Your betta fish will jump and the last thing you want is to find it on the floor. Make sure to cover your tank or bowl and keep the water level at least two inches from the top.
5. Of course the best way to care for your betta fish is to treat it as you would yourself. Feed it when it needs food, keep the water and bowl clean, and if it gets sick, take it to the vet.
Discover the best ways to care for your betta fish by visiting here: Betta Fish Care
Betta fish are a very popular type of fish. They are also called Siamese fighting fish. Betta fish are fairly simple to care for which makes it a great fish to have if you don't want to have a lot of maintainance.
One of the first things you should do when you bring your betta fish home is to get familiar with it's movements and moods. This is important so you can know when something is wrong with your betta fish.
Here are 5 great ways to make sure you take great care of your betta fish.
1. Make sure that you keep your betta in the cleanest water possible. You don't need a filtration system however, you do need to keep the water clean so that your betta fish doesn't get any fungal or bacterial infections. The best way to keep the water clean is to replace one third of the water every two or three days. Make sure that you use aged water, water set out for 24 hours, to replace the old water.
2. Your betta fish needs to get plenty of oxygen so make sure that the bowl you keep your betta in has a large opening at the top. Also make sure that you keep your fish in a bowl large enough where it's not bumping into the edges as it swims.
3. Make sure the you keep the PH levels of your tank at exactly 7.0. If your not sure what the PH levels are, you can get a test kit at your local pet store.
4. Watch out for jumping fish! Your betta fish will jump and the last thing you want is to find it on the floor. Make sure to cover your tank or bowl and keep the water level at least two inches from the top.
5. Of course the best way to care for your betta fish is to treat it as you would yourself. Feed it when it needs food, keep the water and bowl clean, and if it gets sick, take it to the vet.
Discover the best ways to care for your betta fish by visiting here: Betta Fish Care
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Starting Out In Tropical Fishkeeping
By Jonathan Castro
A well designed, fully stocked aquarium is a very attractive feature, and watching fish swim relaxes the mind! But before you venture out into keeping tropical fish, ensure you have enough money at hand, as there are quite a few things you will be buying: a glass tank with lid, a flourescent bulb, an under-gravel filter, an air pump with plastic tubing and airstones, an attractive background strip for the tank, fish food, a heater, a thermometer, a fish net, a wide-diameter flexible tube (useful for draining water out of the tank), rocks, gravel, warm water plants and Aquasafe (or another such chemical - for de-chlorinating tap water). Take a trip to the best local pet shop and have a wander round to get an idea of how much everything will cost. Then get ready to take the plunge!
Before you buy any fish, set up the tank with the under-gravel filter in place, topped with a fairly deep layer of washed gravel (wash it beforehand or your water will end up mucky!), rocks, etc. Install the water heater, the air pump & lines, and fix the decorative backing to the tank. Make sure that before you put anything in the tank (filter, gravel, etc), that the tank is positioned in a suitable location, and on top of a foam lining or thick blanket. This is to prevent the glass bottom of the tank cracking due to any unevenness in the surface on which the tank is placed. The tank will be heavy when full, so locate it somewhere safe where there is no possibility of any instability or failure in the supporting structure. Many tanks come with an optional supporting stand or cabinet.
When you have set up the tank in the desired location, fill it up with tap water which has been appropriately treated (e.g. by using Aquasafe). Turn on the air line and water heater. Then wait for at least 3 weeks before buying any fish. After a day, check that the temperature of the water is between about 75 and 82 F (24-28 C). A temperature of 77 F (25C) is ideal. Adjust the thermostat on the water heater if necessary to achieve this temperature.
After 3 weeks, you are then ready to buy some fish. A wise tactic is to start with only a handful of fish (i.e. 5 or 6), then if these survive you can slowly add more. You will need a fairly local pet store to buy the fish from, to prevent the water cooling too much during your return journey (as this will kill off the fish). Setting up a fishtank during the summer months is ideal, as this will make it easier to transport fish safely without the risk of water cooling. Alternatively, run the heater in your car for a short while before you go to buy the fish, to create a warm atmosphere. When you have brought the fish back home, place the bags in the water and wait for about 20 minutes to enable the temperature to equalize. Then open the bags and carefully empty them, with the fish, into the tank.
You should keep the flourescent light on for most of the day, but you can switch it off at night. Feed the fish once a day, at the same time each day if possible. If a fish dies, take it out of the water as soon as possible. Initially, check every day to make sure no fish have died. Every few weeks, do a partial water change. Don't allow any plants to clog up the tank. Plants such as Elodea grow very quickly, and will need cutting back. You can throw away the excess plant growth or donate it to a fellow fish enthusiast! If you are having problems with fish dying, check the quality of the water. You can buy a testing kit or take a couple of water samples to your local pet store to get them checked.
Happy fishkeeping!
Jonathan Castro is a transport planner and web entrepreneur. He is the manager of several websites, including http://www.fishguides.co.uk and http://www.antichurch.org.uk
A well designed, fully stocked aquarium is a very attractive feature, and watching fish swim relaxes the mind! But before you venture out into keeping tropical fish, ensure you have enough money at hand, as there are quite a few things you will be buying: a glass tank with lid, a flourescent bulb, an under-gravel filter, an air pump with plastic tubing and airstones, an attractive background strip for the tank, fish food, a heater, a thermometer, a fish net, a wide-diameter flexible tube (useful for draining water out of the tank), rocks, gravel, warm water plants and Aquasafe (or another such chemical - for de-chlorinating tap water). Take a trip to the best local pet shop and have a wander round to get an idea of how much everything will cost. Then get ready to take the plunge!
Before you buy any fish, set up the tank with the under-gravel filter in place, topped with a fairly deep layer of washed gravel (wash it beforehand or your water will end up mucky!), rocks, etc. Install the water heater, the air pump & lines, and fix the decorative backing to the tank. Make sure that before you put anything in the tank (filter, gravel, etc), that the tank is positioned in a suitable location, and on top of a foam lining or thick blanket. This is to prevent the glass bottom of the tank cracking due to any unevenness in the surface on which the tank is placed. The tank will be heavy when full, so locate it somewhere safe where there is no possibility of any instability or failure in the supporting structure. Many tanks come with an optional supporting stand or cabinet.
When you have set up the tank in the desired location, fill it up with tap water which has been appropriately treated (e.g. by using Aquasafe). Turn on the air line and water heater. Then wait for at least 3 weeks before buying any fish. After a day, check that the temperature of the water is between about 75 and 82 F (24-28 C). A temperature of 77 F (25C) is ideal. Adjust the thermostat on the water heater if necessary to achieve this temperature.
After 3 weeks, you are then ready to buy some fish. A wise tactic is to start with only a handful of fish (i.e. 5 or 6), then if these survive you can slowly add more. You will need a fairly local pet store to buy the fish from, to prevent the water cooling too much during your return journey (as this will kill off the fish). Setting up a fishtank during the summer months is ideal, as this will make it easier to transport fish safely without the risk of water cooling. Alternatively, run the heater in your car for a short while before you go to buy the fish, to create a warm atmosphere. When you have brought the fish back home, place the bags in the water and wait for about 20 minutes to enable the temperature to equalize. Then open the bags and carefully empty them, with the fish, into the tank.
You should keep the flourescent light on for most of the day, but you can switch it off at night. Feed the fish once a day, at the same time each day if possible. If a fish dies, take it out of the water as soon as possible. Initially, check every day to make sure no fish have died. Every few weeks, do a partial water change. Don't allow any plants to clog up the tank. Plants such as Elodea grow very quickly, and will need cutting back. You can throw away the excess plant growth or donate it to a fellow fish enthusiast! If you are having problems with fish dying, check the quality of the water. You can buy a testing kit or take a couple of water samples to your local pet store to get them checked.
Happy fishkeeping!
Jonathan Castro is a transport planner and web entrepreneur. He is the manager of several websites, including http://www.fishguides.co.uk and http://www.antichurch.org.uk
Monday, October 1, 2007
Breeding Dwarf Seahorses
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Rodrigo_Flores]Rodrigo Flores
I love Seahorses, I'm sure you have figured that by now. In the past I have kept several different types of horses and pipefish, I have even collected some of my own in the Caribbean!!! The one species I had not had and that I wanted was the Dwarf Seahorse, Hippocampus zosterae. So at the beginning of spring when we took the boys to Disney World, I though this is my chance to go a little bit further south and get myself some Dwarfs!!! All the way down there the boys where giddy about the rides they would ride, the food, the hotel and the beach� I was just as giddy about the Seahorses� We stayed a little over a week in Disney and finally the day had come to go finding my own H. zosterae. I had spoken with several people about collecting fish in Florida and I found out that all I needed was a fishing license and good luck. I was also told that you could find H. Zosterae in the Indian River all they way up to Cape Canaveral down to the keys. I spent several days going up and down the Indian River, we did not make it as far south as I wanted but we made it to Vero Beach. No Seahorses!!! Not even one� I found some pretty nudibranchs and some other things but no Seahorses� So I had to come home.
But then I found The Florida Collector. I ordered 20 Seahorses all for my own. I set them up in one 40-gallon Eclipse tank with 2 biowheels and I put the intake in a Hydrosponge so the horses would not get sucked up. The tank had been running for over a year and had served as a hospital/quarantine tank for my larger marine tanks. The problem with H. Zosterae, and this is the reason why I had not kept them before, is that they only eat live food and it must be really small, the Seahorses themselves are about 1 to 1 1/2 inches total lenght. Rachel (my wife) had made a point that I would have to feed the fish and she would not help with the whole artemia hatching, rinsing and feeding procedures until now. Since I am not at home most of the day she would have to take care of a big part of the feeding schedules. To be able to feed them brine shrimp and it be enough for them, you have to hatch at least 2 batches per day and feed them right away while the nauplii (baby shrimp) still has some of the yolk sack and the exoskeleton is soft.
After a few days of feeding them we noticed that the tank was too big for them. They would hitch to something near the bottom and the artemia would swim near the top missing the seahorses by over half the tank. So we moved them to 5-gallon tanks. We separated them by pairs or what we thought where pairs and we waited. They did really well� After a few weeks we noticed that one of the males was �dancing� with a smaller female. By now we could tell them apart by coloration, shape and size. About a week later the male seemed to have a bigger belly and about 2 weeks later we had babies. At first just 2 or 3 but by the next day we had about 25!!! Then some of the other males followed suit, and soon we had more seahorses than we knew what to do with.
The babies don�t eat for the first day or two since they have some yolk left. After that we had to hatch a lot of artemia every day and night. We had jars with artemia cultures everywhere. I gave a lot of my babies away and some died. We had an invasion of hydras that came with the artemia (sometimes there are hydra eggs attached to the shells of the artemia eggs and if you don�t buy de-capsulated eggs, or do it yourself, you could introduce them in your tank. They ate a lot of the babies in one of my tanks and it was nearly impossible to eradicate them. Some of the nudybranchs we found in Florida helped to eat them but they have a short life span. Sadly the same is true for the H. Zosterae, they live just over a year so the population has renewed itself and now some of our babies are having babies. Hopefully we will be able to keep them for many generations.
Check out my other articles and some fish pics in my blog: http://www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
I love Seahorses, I'm sure you have figured that by now. In the past I have kept several different types of horses and pipefish, I have even collected some of my own in the Caribbean!!! The one species I had not had and that I wanted was the Dwarf Seahorse, Hippocampus zosterae. So at the beginning of spring when we took the boys to Disney World, I though this is my chance to go a little bit further south and get myself some Dwarfs!!! All the way down there the boys where giddy about the rides they would ride, the food, the hotel and the beach� I was just as giddy about the Seahorses� We stayed a little over a week in Disney and finally the day had come to go finding my own H. zosterae. I had spoken with several people about collecting fish in Florida and I found out that all I needed was a fishing license and good luck. I was also told that you could find H. Zosterae in the Indian River all they way up to Cape Canaveral down to the keys. I spent several days going up and down the Indian River, we did not make it as far south as I wanted but we made it to Vero Beach. No Seahorses!!! Not even one� I found some pretty nudibranchs and some other things but no Seahorses� So I had to come home.
But then I found The Florida Collector. I ordered 20 Seahorses all for my own. I set them up in one 40-gallon Eclipse tank with 2 biowheels and I put the intake in a Hydrosponge so the horses would not get sucked up. The tank had been running for over a year and had served as a hospital/quarantine tank for my larger marine tanks. The problem with H. Zosterae, and this is the reason why I had not kept them before, is that they only eat live food and it must be really small, the Seahorses themselves are about 1 to 1 1/2 inches total lenght. Rachel (my wife) had made a point that I would have to feed the fish and she would not help with the whole artemia hatching, rinsing and feeding procedures until now. Since I am not at home most of the day she would have to take care of a big part of the feeding schedules. To be able to feed them brine shrimp and it be enough for them, you have to hatch at least 2 batches per day and feed them right away while the nauplii (baby shrimp) still has some of the yolk sack and the exoskeleton is soft.
After a few days of feeding them we noticed that the tank was too big for them. They would hitch to something near the bottom and the artemia would swim near the top missing the seahorses by over half the tank. So we moved them to 5-gallon tanks. We separated them by pairs or what we thought where pairs and we waited. They did really well� After a few weeks we noticed that one of the males was �dancing� with a smaller female. By now we could tell them apart by coloration, shape and size. About a week later the male seemed to have a bigger belly and about 2 weeks later we had babies. At first just 2 or 3 but by the next day we had about 25!!! Then some of the other males followed suit, and soon we had more seahorses than we knew what to do with.
The babies don�t eat for the first day or two since they have some yolk left. After that we had to hatch a lot of artemia every day and night. We had jars with artemia cultures everywhere. I gave a lot of my babies away and some died. We had an invasion of hydras that came with the artemia (sometimes there are hydra eggs attached to the shells of the artemia eggs and if you don�t buy de-capsulated eggs, or do it yourself, you could introduce them in your tank. They ate a lot of the babies in one of my tanks and it was nearly impossible to eradicate them. Some of the nudybranchs we found in Florida helped to eat them but they have a short life span. Sadly the same is true for the H. Zosterae, they live just over a year so the population has renewed itself and now some of our babies are having babies. Hopefully we will be able to keep them for many generations.
Check out my other articles and some fish pics in my blog: http://www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Identifying Injuries To Avoid Tropical Fish Diseases
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chrystal_Summers]Chrystal Summers
Most occurrences of tropical fish diseases is a result of weakened or injured fishes becoming infected.
Some injuries are part of life in an aquarium and do not require much attention, such as territorial fishes having fights or fishes swimming into sharp/edged features. Other injuries can be more serious and will need you to help prevent wounds from being infected during the fish�s weakened state.
If you notice a fish with a more serious injury, the first thing you need to do is to separate that fish from the aquarium, and place it into a recuperation tank. This will allow the fish to heal from its injuries without becoming stressed, or risking further injury.
It�s also a good idea to add some antibiotics, such as tetracycline and chloromycetin, into the water of the recuperation tank to prevent the fish from contracting any infections. Depending on the type of fish and its needs, a lower pH level, around 6.6 is ideal in most cases, may help to speed up the recovery time.
While you are allowing your fish to recuperate, you should try to identify what caused the injury. If it is a sharp feature you have placed in the aquarium, you should consider removing it. If it is another fish who is responsible for causing the injury, then you should consider separating them into different tanks.
Then again, some minor injuries can just be caused by simple accidents, and you need not worry too much about them. Just allow some time for your fish to recuperate, and it will be back in action in no time.
Chrystal Summers is a tropical fish. Not really, she just loves them. If you want to learn more about how you can take better care of your fishes, so they stay free from tropical fish diseases, visit her blog here: http://tropicalfishdiseases.blogspot.com/
Most occurrences of tropical fish diseases is a result of weakened or injured fishes becoming infected.
Some injuries are part of life in an aquarium and do not require much attention, such as territorial fishes having fights or fishes swimming into sharp/edged features. Other injuries can be more serious and will need you to help prevent wounds from being infected during the fish�s weakened state.
If you notice a fish with a more serious injury, the first thing you need to do is to separate that fish from the aquarium, and place it into a recuperation tank. This will allow the fish to heal from its injuries without becoming stressed, or risking further injury.
It�s also a good idea to add some antibiotics, such as tetracycline and chloromycetin, into the water of the recuperation tank to prevent the fish from contracting any infections. Depending on the type of fish and its needs, a lower pH level, around 6.6 is ideal in most cases, may help to speed up the recovery time.
While you are allowing your fish to recuperate, you should try to identify what caused the injury. If it is a sharp feature you have placed in the aquarium, you should consider removing it. If it is another fish who is responsible for causing the injury, then you should consider separating them into different tanks.
Then again, some minor injuries can just be caused by simple accidents, and you need not worry too much about them. Just allow some time for your fish to recuperate, and it will be back in action in no time.
Chrystal Summers is a tropical fish. Not really, she just loves them. If you want to learn more about how you can take better care of your fishes, so they stay free from tropical fish diseases, visit her blog here: http://tropicalfishdiseases.blogspot.com/
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Breeding Betta Fishes
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Bosun_Sogeke]Bosun Sogeke
Betta fishes are in reality very sociable fish as long as you don't place two males together. They can be very easily kept with most other fish, and what you truly have to watch out for is the fish that bothers bettas.
Betta fishes are slow moving fish with incredibly long fins, so they can't be placed with any fast moving fish that is being known for it�s fin-nipping, like zebra danios. They get along in a very good manner with most breeds of tetras, and you can let your baby betta fish grow with baby neons.
When you place bettas in a community tank, the most significant thing to keep in mind is that they are fish that initially came from an area with slow moving water. So any kind of big filtration on the tank will shock a betta and make him conceal in a corner away from the current. You have to create a sense of balance in this case with the other fish in the tank that have need of the current and bubbles for the oxygen in the water for them to survive. Alternatively, once a betta fish gets accustomed to the current from a filter, you will every now and then see the betta playing in it for fun. Simply take care that there is an area with slow moving water or still water in the tank for the betta to move to when they are exhausted.
Normally you can�t place a male and female betta fish in the same tank if
* The two fish are not very babyish (more than a few months old generally won't work)
* They are not prepared and ready to reproduce,
* They have not grown up together from a very young age, and
* You do not have sufficient hiding places for the female.
This is a sweeping statement - your mileage may differ on this one!
Generally, even for usual breeders, getting the silly small fish to breed can be either an effortless joy or a royal pain. They're not as good as the humans on blind dates. Many a times one couple will take to each other right away and you'll have eggs spread here and there in the tank, and sometimes they can swim around the tank for weeks and in no way look at each other. Or in certain cases one will be attracted but the other won't. So don't ever get depressed about not being able to breed the fish.
As a universal rule, for a female betta fish, give her sufficient time for her to recuperate and start looking prepared again; Sorry, that won�t help out a lot, but every fish is unusual just keep an eye on your betta fish. If she had a despondent initially, it'll take her a while to recuperate. If the whole thing went well, she can be hot to trot again within a week.
Generally the second mating produce less number of eggs as compared to the first one, but it's never debilitated the female yet. If the female betta fish hasn't been fed, high-protein food regularly, then it takes normally a minimum time of 2-3 weeks after starting that food that she'll be prepared for breeding. After having been bred, if the female fish has been put on that same food again, usually within 2-3 weeks she'll be prepared again. However, it would better on your part to maintain a gap of one month in between.
Look carefully while placing the fish together. If the female is trying to attract the male aggressively and the bubblenest, and hanging her head down in the water, she's prepared. If all she does is swim away worriedly trying to run away, she's not.
Males also have to be conditioned as they use up a lot of exertion in tending the fry, but they're time and again more prepared than females. Though, keep an eye on the fish. From time to time the male is just so eager to be with a female that he's more involved in either fighting or showing off to truly doing anything about it. Or he's been around females so much that being lonely with one just isn't a delight anymore. Make use of your decision.
Normally after a fish is beaten up, it's fine to give them sufficient time to recuperate from whatever wounds they received, but torn fins aren't generally a trouble.
For more information or to learn more on Betta Fish, please visit my [http://www.bettafishworld.blogspot.com ]blog
Betta fishes are in reality very sociable fish as long as you don't place two males together. They can be very easily kept with most other fish, and what you truly have to watch out for is the fish that bothers bettas.
Betta fishes are slow moving fish with incredibly long fins, so they can't be placed with any fast moving fish that is being known for it�s fin-nipping, like zebra danios. They get along in a very good manner with most breeds of tetras, and you can let your baby betta fish grow with baby neons.
When you place bettas in a community tank, the most significant thing to keep in mind is that they are fish that initially came from an area with slow moving water. So any kind of big filtration on the tank will shock a betta and make him conceal in a corner away from the current. You have to create a sense of balance in this case with the other fish in the tank that have need of the current and bubbles for the oxygen in the water for them to survive. Alternatively, once a betta fish gets accustomed to the current from a filter, you will every now and then see the betta playing in it for fun. Simply take care that there is an area with slow moving water or still water in the tank for the betta to move to when they are exhausted.
Normally you can�t place a male and female betta fish in the same tank if
* The two fish are not very babyish (more than a few months old generally won't work)
* They are not prepared and ready to reproduce,
* They have not grown up together from a very young age, and
* You do not have sufficient hiding places for the female.
This is a sweeping statement - your mileage may differ on this one!
Generally, even for usual breeders, getting the silly small fish to breed can be either an effortless joy or a royal pain. They're not as good as the humans on blind dates. Many a times one couple will take to each other right away and you'll have eggs spread here and there in the tank, and sometimes they can swim around the tank for weeks and in no way look at each other. Or in certain cases one will be attracted but the other won't. So don't ever get depressed about not being able to breed the fish.
As a universal rule, for a female betta fish, give her sufficient time for her to recuperate and start looking prepared again; Sorry, that won�t help out a lot, but every fish is unusual just keep an eye on your betta fish. If she had a despondent initially, it'll take her a while to recuperate. If the whole thing went well, she can be hot to trot again within a week.
Generally the second mating produce less number of eggs as compared to the first one, but it's never debilitated the female yet. If the female betta fish hasn't been fed, high-protein food regularly, then it takes normally a minimum time of 2-3 weeks after starting that food that she'll be prepared for breeding. After having been bred, if the female fish has been put on that same food again, usually within 2-3 weeks she'll be prepared again. However, it would better on your part to maintain a gap of one month in between.
Look carefully while placing the fish together. If the female is trying to attract the male aggressively and the bubblenest, and hanging her head down in the water, she's prepared. If all she does is swim away worriedly trying to run away, she's not.
Males also have to be conditioned as they use up a lot of exertion in tending the fry, but they're time and again more prepared than females. Though, keep an eye on the fish. From time to time the male is just so eager to be with a female that he's more involved in either fighting or showing off to truly doing anything about it. Or he's been around females so much that being lonely with one just isn't a delight anymore. Make use of your decision.
Normally after a fish is beaten up, it's fine to give them sufficient time to recuperate from whatever wounds they received, but torn fins aren't generally a trouble.
For more information or to learn more on Betta Fish, please visit my [http://www.bettafishworld.blogspot.com ]blog
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Tropical Fish Diseases - Choosing The Right Fishes
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Chrystal_Summers]Chrystal Summers
Being able to choose the right tropical fishes for your home aquarium is one of the most important steps you can take to prevent tropical fish diseases.
There are so many types of tropical fishes that you can find any that will match your personality and lifestyle. But there are some vital tips you need to be aware of if you want to keep them healthy and happy.
Temperament:
One of the first things you need to know about the tropical fishes at the pet store is their temperament. There are three types of fish:
Social: these fishes will get along well with most other types, they include Danios, Tetras, Guppies, Swordtails, Mollies, and Corydoras
Semi-social: these fishes can be kept with other fishes that are of the same size. They include Barbs, Angelfish, and Gouramis
Aggressive: these fishes should always be kept isolated from other fishes, because as the category suggests they can be quite aggressive. Some examples include male Bettas, Oscars, and Jewelfish
Color/health:
This might sound so common sense you might think it�s not even worth mentioning, but it is an often forgotten tip: when choosing your tropical fishes make sure they have dense and well-defined color. A fish with strong colors and no marks means it is in good health. If your fish is not healthy when you purchase it, it will be more susceptible to tropical fish diseases when you introduce it into your home aquarium.
Different environments:
Just like us, different fishes have different needs when it comes to a good environment to live in. You need to know what types of tanks the fishes like, how much space they need, as well as the water temperature that is required for each fish. Some fishes prefer bigger tanks, while others like smaller spaces, some fishes like a lot of room to swim around in, while others like to have rocks, plants, and other features so they can hide, and then again some like the water to be warmer than others. If you put a fish in an environment that they do not like, they will gradually become more stressed and this will lead to tropical fish diseases.
Don�t overcrowd:
Once you know the type of fishes you want, and have made sure that they will all get along, you want to be careful not to overcrowd the tank. This is often an overlooked reason for fishes contracting tropical fish diseases. You need to number the fishes in the tank on a per gallon basis, again this depends on the preference of the fishes you purchase (picky aren�t they?). Overcrowding will lead to stress and as we all know, too much stress is just not good for the health, in people and fishes.
If you are sure what the preferences are or the temperament of the fishes you want to purchase, always ask for advice at the pet store. If you take these steps when choosing your fishes, you will be ensuring they stay free from tropical fish diseases, and remain happy and healthy.
Chrystal Summers is a tropical fish. Not really, she just loves them. If you want to learn more about how you can take better care of your fishes, so they stay free from tropical fish diseases, visit her blog here: http://tropicalfishdiseases.blogspot.com/
Being able to choose the right tropical fishes for your home aquarium is one of the most important steps you can take to prevent tropical fish diseases.
There are so many types of tropical fishes that you can find any that will match your personality and lifestyle. But there are some vital tips you need to be aware of if you want to keep them healthy and happy.
Temperament:
One of the first things you need to know about the tropical fishes at the pet store is their temperament. There are three types of fish:
Social: these fishes will get along well with most other types, they include Danios, Tetras, Guppies, Swordtails, Mollies, and Corydoras
Semi-social: these fishes can be kept with other fishes that are of the same size. They include Barbs, Angelfish, and Gouramis
Aggressive: these fishes should always be kept isolated from other fishes, because as the category suggests they can be quite aggressive. Some examples include male Bettas, Oscars, and Jewelfish
Color/health:
This might sound so common sense you might think it�s not even worth mentioning, but it is an often forgotten tip: when choosing your tropical fishes make sure they have dense and well-defined color. A fish with strong colors and no marks means it is in good health. If your fish is not healthy when you purchase it, it will be more susceptible to tropical fish diseases when you introduce it into your home aquarium.
Different environments:
Just like us, different fishes have different needs when it comes to a good environment to live in. You need to know what types of tanks the fishes like, how much space they need, as well as the water temperature that is required for each fish. Some fishes prefer bigger tanks, while others like smaller spaces, some fishes like a lot of room to swim around in, while others like to have rocks, plants, and other features so they can hide, and then again some like the water to be warmer than others. If you put a fish in an environment that they do not like, they will gradually become more stressed and this will lead to tropical fish diseases.
Don�t overcrowd:
Once you know the type of fishes you want, and have made sure that they will all get along, you want to be careful not to overcrowd the tank. This is often an overlooked reason for fishes contracting tropical fish diseases. You need to number the fishes in the tank on a per gallon basis, again this depends on the preference of the fishes you purchase (picky aren�t they?). Overcrowding will lead to stress and as we all know, too much stress is just not good for the health, in people and fishes.
If you are sure what the preferences are or the temperament of the fishes you want to purchase, always ask for advice at the pet store. If you take these steps when choosing your fishes, you will be ensuring they stay free from tropical fish diseases, and remain happy and healthy.
Chrystal Summers is a tropical fish. Not really, she just loves them. If you want to learn more about how you can take better care of your fishes, so they stay free from tropical fish diseases, visit her blog here: http://tropicalfishdiseases.blogspot.com/
Sunday, September 23, 2007
Taking Care of your Betta fish
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Bosun_Sogeke]Bosun Sogeke
Betta fishes live for approximately 2 to 5 years. The Fishes that are sold in pet stores are generally adults, so they have the fine lengthy fins, but that also shows that they are by now a year old. That shows that if your betta fish lives for more than 2-3 years after you purchase it, it's a fine, long-lived fish.
The foods for bettas have a tendency to be more of a meat diet as compared to other fishes. A number of fishes are very particular about what they will or won't consume. It's totally special with every fish, although, and depends a great deal on what they were initially lived with. Most bettas will involuntarily be stuck on and consume all types of live food, brine shrimp, tubiflex worms, black worms, mosquito larvae, daphina, etc. But the majority of the people don't like or aren't capable of keeping the live food around always, so dry foods are developed for the fish. You can get pellets and special flakes for bettas from your nearby pet shop. However be aware that if your fish hasn't eaten them earlier it might take some time for him to develop a taste to them or even to begin eating them. One more kind of dried food is the freeze-dried foods like bloodworms, brine shrimp, worms, etc. You can also train your betta fish to eat normal flake food that you feed the rest of your aquarium fishes and exchange that with the live foods.
A betta fish�s home must be like their natural habitat to make your fish a happy fish and live. The rice paddy region is exceptionally hot and humid, with ordinary waters in the 80-85 deg F range, and very moist air. In the U.S., the atmosphere doesn't usually come close to matching that atmosphere, and the fish have been bred for years and years to cope up with various weather conditions, so that they can also stay alive in room temperature water, but they will be much more contented and healthier in warmer water.
A most suitable temperature for a betta fish is 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Not much hotter than that, as the outside temperature doesn't match. And they are also fine generally down to 72 degrees. But if the room temperature gets much lower than that, the betta fish will most likely not be able to eat, will get ill or have many other troubles.
If the outside temperature is hotter than 80 degrees, don't be troubled about trying to keep the betta cool. They will be contented in the higher temperatures, but you must keep an eye as hotter temperatures will also make the water stinking faster and sicknesses that had been hole up might unexpectedly have an effect on the fish.
Betta fishes are fish that initially came from very hot regions of Asia. They get raised in still water where rice and other plants grew. To become accustomed to this inactive water with low-oxygen content, they developed a particular organ called a "labyrinth organ" that performs action something like a mammal's lung. In this case the fish goes to the upper surface of the water, takes in a lungful of air, and then the organ lets them to process the oxygen from the air, instead of an ordinary fish that obtains the oxygen from the water through its gills. And only because of this unusual capability of bettas, they can be placed in small jars and enclosures and can live in it. They don't have the need of the movement of the water and the quantity of water like other fish.
Though, that doesn't signify that they're happy fish when placed in the small jars. They are usually very happy fish in bigger containers, and a small bowl or jar must only be a provisional tank for a betta fish.
Mainly one gallon of water is an excellent size to place a Betta fish with water changes in two weeks. If you don�t keep your fish in that much water then you might face two types of problems i.e. the water will become polluted very and the fish can't swim in it. If you don't possess an aquarium, you can use a plastic or glass 1 gal goldfish bowl as the initial container for a betta fish.
While changing the water, it is a great idea to acquire some water conditioner to get rid of the chlorine and some "stress coat" formula to help out to keep the fish healthy. Be alert to match both the temperatures, as in that way the betta fish doesn't get disturbed.
For more information or to learn more on Betta Fish, please visit my [http://www.bettafishworld.blogspot.com ]blog
Betta fishes live for approximately 2 to 5 years. The Fishes that are sold in pet stores are generally adults, so they have the fine lengthy fins, but that also shows that they are by now a year old. That shows that if your betta fish lives for more than 2-3 years after you purchase it, it's a fine, long-lived fish.
The foods for bettas have a tendency to be more of a meat diet as compared to other fishes. A number of fishes are very particular about what they will or won't consume. It's totally special with every fish, although, and depends a great deal on what they were initially lived with. Most bettas will involuntarily be stuck on and consume all types of live food, brine shrimp, tubiflex worms, black worms, mosquito larvae, daphina, etc. But the majority of the people don't like or aren't capable of keeping the live food around always, so dry foods are developed for the fish. You can get pellets and special flakes for bettas from your nearby pet shop. However be aware that if your fish hasn't eaten them earlier it might take some time for him to develop a taste to them or even to begin eating them. One more kind of dried food is the freeze-dried foods like bloodworms, brine shrimp, worms, etc. You can also train your betta fish to eat normal flake food that you feed the rest of your aquarium fishes and exchange that with the live foods.
A betta fish�s home must be like their natural habitat to make your fish a happy fish and live. The rice paddy region is exceptionally hot and humid, with ordinary waters in the 80-85 deg F range, and very moist air. In the U.S., the atmosphere doesn't usually come close to matching that atmosphere, and the fish have been bred for years and years to cope up with various weather conditions, so that they can also stay alive in room temperature water, but they will be much more contented and healthier in warmer water.
A most suitable temperature for a betta fish is 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Not much hotter than that, as the outside temperature doesn't match. And they are also fine generally down to 72 degrees. But if the room temperature gets much lower than that, the betta fish will most likely not be able to eat, will get ill or have many other troubles.
If the outside temperature is hotter than 80 degrees, don't be troubled about trying to keep the betta cool. They will be contented in the higher temperatures, but you must keep an eye as hotter temperatures will also make the water stinking faster and sicknesses that had been hole up might unexpectedly have an effect on the fish.
Betta fishes are fish that initially came from very hot regions of Asia. They get raised in still water where rice and other plants grew. To become accustomed to this inactive water with low-oxygen content, they developed a particular organ called a "labyrinth organ" that performs action something like a mammal's lung. In this case the fish goes to the upper surface of the water, takes in a lungful of air, and then the organ lets them to process the oxygen from the air, instead of an ordinary fish that obtains the oxygen from the water through its gills. And only because of this unusual capability of bettas, they can be placed in small jars and enclosures and can live in it. They don't have the need of the movement of the water and the quantity of water like other fish.
Though, that doesn't signify that they're happy fish when placed in the small jars. They are usually very happy fish in bigger containers, and a small bowl or jar must only be a provisional tank for a betta fish.
Mainly one gallon of water is an excellent size to place a Betta fish with water changes in two weeks. If you don�t keep your fish in that much water then you might face two types of problems i.e. the water will become polluted very and the fish can't swim in it. If you don't possess an aquarium, you can use a plastic or glass 1 gal goldfish bowl as the initial container for a betta fish.
While changing the water, it is a great idea to acquire some water conditioner to get rid of the chlorine and some "stress coat" formula to help out to keep the fish healthy. Be alert to match both the temperatures, as in that way the betta fish doesn't get disturbed.
For more information or to learn more on Betta Fish, please visit my [http://www.bettafishworld.blogspot.com ]blog
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