By Rinto Lim
Aquarium maintenance is an essential regular activity that provides a stable, healthy environment for fish and plants. The key to an effective program is to fulfill basic, simple tasks, which, when performed on a regular basis, take very little time and result in a clean, thriving aquarium display.
Ongoing biological processes can deplete water of essential ingredients and cause nitrate accumulation and other non-desirable substances. Most expert aquarists will agree that regular partial water changes represent a key element in fish health and condition. The following lists of maintenance activities and equipment serve as a general guide to maintaining a stable aquatic environment. Variations in percentage and frequency can exist due to stocking density and types of livestock kept.
Maintenance Tip:
1. Never change more than 40% of aquarium water at a time.
2. Never empty the entire aquarium to clean it. This causes undue stress on fish and will disturb the biological balance of your aquarium.
3. Only change half of your filter media at a time, to retain the established biological balance.
4. NEVER use soap or any detergent on your aquarium or any products used in or around your aquarium.
5. When cleaning the inside glass of your aquarium, avoid picking up pieces of gravel, as this will scratch the glass.
6. Limit the amount of times you put your hands in the water. Oils and films may cause stress in fish.
Maintenance Checklist:
Daily
1. Perform a visual check of the aquarium inhabitants to make sure that none of them are sick, hurt, or acting strangely.
2. Check that all the equipment is working properly(filters, heaters, lighting, etc.).
3. Remove any dead fish, plants, or obvious debris (such as plant leaves attached to intake strainer of filter).
Weekly
1. Perform a partial water change, 5 to 10% is recommended. Use a gravel washer to clean trapped waste from the gravel. Partial water changes on a regular basis will provide stable water quality and maintain ideal conditions.
2. Clean the glass inside and outside. This will eliminate any algae, and ensure full viewing pleasure.
3. Clean fluorescent tube(s) and fixture. This will maintain consistent light levels.
4. Test the aquarium water.
Monthly
1. Check supplies, food, water conditioners and all other regularly used items.
2. Perform filter maintenance and replace filter media as per manufacturer's recommendations and in accordance with the results of your water test.
Do this stuff, I'm sure your fish will be as happy and healthy as you want. Good Luck!
Find out more tips and guide about having, keeping, and maintaining your own saltwater aquarium here: Saltwater Aquarium Guide
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Monday, October 29, 2007
What Is Reverse Osmosis And Why Is It Good For Your Aquarium?
By Richard Gilliland
Water used within the aquariums is generally tap water, which contains a lot of undesirable ingredients such as nitrates, phosphates, silicates and even chlorine and copper. Nitrates, phosphates and silicates are directly responsible for the promotion of algal growth in the reef tanks. Hence it becomes very important to reduce their concentration in the reef tank. The method used by most aquarium hobbyists for purifying the water in their reef tank and making it resemble seawater is to use a combination of reverse osmosis along with another method known as deionization.
In the deionization process, water is purified from all ions present in it, except the ions that are naturally present in water, such as the hydronium and the hydroxyl ions. All other radicals are removed. The reverse osmosis ensures that the solute molecules in the water are retained back, and the deionization extracts all the impurity ions. Hence, when the two methods are used in conjunction, all the solid impurities within the water are eliminated and the water becomes pure to the greatest extent. In addition, the water could be made to pass through a carbon filter, which will further remove all the organic impurities from the water.
One of the biggest advantages of the reverse osmosis and deionization conjunction is that it brings water to such a pure level that desired levels of nutrients can then be added. Water is made totally neutral when the two filtering processes are carried out, so that the pH can then be adjusted to the desired level by adding the requisite amount of minerals.
Why does reverse osmosis become necessary in a reef aquarium? The organisms of the reef aquarium, including the corals, can exude a lot of ions and solid ejaculates into the water environment during their various metabolic processes. These impurities actually move out from their bodies to the water through osmosis, because their skins are akin to semipermeable membranes. Due to the addition of so many ions and compounds into the water, the pH of the water shows an appreciable increase. This could be actually harmful for the life of the organisms within the reef tank. Most of these impurities contain carbon, which can affect the pH value of the tank environment vastly. Hence, it becomes necessary to bring the pH to an optimum level. Reverse osmosis and deionization in combination can perform this task to a very good level.
At the same time, reverse osmosis and deionization are popular among professional reef keepers and hobby reef keepers alike because of the low cost of the process. Using a reverse osmosis and deionization unit in a fair sized tank will cost about 18 to 20 cents per gallon, which is far better than any other filtration system for reef tanks.
However, there is some criticism against the reverse osmosis and deionization systems, such as they remove vital trace elements like calcium, magnesium and potassium from the water. These minerals are essential for the well-being of the reef tank inhabitants. Another criticism is that these units require the most maintenance. Yet, they do remain the most popular choice for aquarium owners due to the cheap cost of the mechanism and the quick, assured results they show in cleaning the water ecosystem well enough for the inhabitants to thrive.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Water used within the aquariums is generally tap water, which contains a lot of undesirable ingredients such as nitrates, phosphates, silicates and even chlorine and copper. Nitrates, phosphates and silicates are directly responsible for the promotion of algal growth in the reef tanks. Hence it becomes very important to reduce their concentration in the reef tank. The method used by most aquarium hobbyists for purifying the water in their reef tank and making it resemble seawater is to use a combination of reverse osmosis along with another method known as deionization.
In the deionization process, water is purified from all ions present in it, except the ions that are naturally present in water, such as the hydronium and the hydroxyl ions. All other radicals are removed. The reverse osmosis ensures that the solute molecules in the water are retained back, and the deionization extracts all the impurity ions. Hence, when the two methods are used in conjunction, all the solid impurities within the water are eliminated and the water becomes pure to the greatest extent. In addition, the water could be made to pass through a carbon filter, which will further remove all the organic impurities from the water.
One of the biggest advantages of the reverse osmosis and deionization conjunction is that it brings water to such a pure level that desired levels of nutrients can then be added. Water is made totally neutral when the two filtering processes are carried out, so that the pH can then be adjusted to the desired level by adding the requisite amount of minerals.
Why does reverse osmosis become necessary in a reef aquarium? The organisms of the reef aquarium, including the corals, can exude a lot of ions and solid ejaculates into the water environment during their various metabolic processes. These impurities actually move out from their bodies to the water through osmosis, because their skins are akin to semipermeable membranes. Due to the addition of so many ions and compounds into the water, the pH of the water shows an appreciable increase. This could be actually harmful for the life of the organisms within the reef tank. Most of these impurities contain carbon, which can affect the pH value of the tank environment vastly. Hence, it becomes necessary to bring the pH to an optimum level. Reverse osmosis and deionization in combination can perform this task to a very good level.
At the same time, reverse osmosis and deionization are popular among professional reef keepers and hobby reef keepers alike because of the low cost of the process. Using a reverse osmosis and deionization unit in a fair sized tank will cost about 18 to 20 cents per gallon, which is far better than any other filtration system for reef tanks.
However, there is some criticism against the reverse osmosis and deionization systems, such as they remove vital trace elements like calcium, magnesium and potassium from the water. These minerals are essential for the well-being of the reef tank inhabitants. Another criticism is that these units require the most maintenance. Yet, they do remain the most popular choice for aquarium owners due to the cheap cost of the mechanism and the quick, assured results they show in cleaning the water ecosystem well enough for the inhabitants to thrive.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Saturday, October 27, 2007
What Do I Need Fish Tank Stands For?
By Arturo Ronzon
There is a ton of things that could cause a person to feel the need of a good fish tank stand. Just think about the weight of a 55-gallon fish tank that is full of water. This is the main reason for the need. There are many more as well, including the need to keep your room stylish.
Not many people are wise enough to understand the structural demands needed to create a good fish tank stand. This is the main reason you will need to look into purchasing one. The weight of the tank plus the water inside of it puts too much strain on many home built stands. Unless you are a structural engineer, leave stand building to the experts. There are numerous affordable models available made of strong steel or wood that can handle the structural needs of a fish tank stand.
Another reason for a stand would be to make the fish tank itself look more stylish. Many people resist purchasing a tank because they feel it doesn't add beauty to a room. With the proper fish tank stand, there could nothing further from the truth. Many of the wooden stands designed today focus on adding beauty and style to your room. You should be able to find a wooden stand that matches the grain or finish of the wood already in your home. This will make the fish tank and stand further blend into the room and look as if it were always there. If most people only notice the fish tank and not the stand, you have been successful in finding the right one. A stand should not overpower the tank and its contents.
If you are making the large investment of a new fish tank, consider the added expense of a fish tank stand. There are many choices to choose from at almost pet supply stores, so finding the one that most meets your needs and budget shouldn't be too hard. If you are looking to provide the most stable stand to the tank, you may need a steel structure. If you are focused on the look of the stand, a wood stand is probably your best option.
For more information about Fish Tank Stands, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-2-Fish-Tank-Stands.html
There is a ton of things that could cause a person to feel the need of a good fish tank stand. Just think about the weight of a 55-gallon fish tank that is full of water. This is the main reason for the need. There are many more as well, including the need to keep your room stylish.
Not many people are wise enough to understand the structural demands needed to create a good fish tank stand. This is the main reason you will need to look into purchasing one. The weight of the tank plus the water inside of it puts too much strain on many home built stands. Unless you are a structural engineer, leave stand building to the experts. There are numerous affordable models available made of strong steel or wood that can handle the structural needs of a fish tank stand.
Another reason for a stand would be to make the fish tank itself look more stylish. Many people resist purchasing a tank because they feel it doesn't add beauty to a room. With the proper fish tank stand, there could nothing further from the truth. Many of the wooden stands designed today focus on adding beauty and style to your room. You should be able to find a wooden stand that matches the grain or finish of the wood already in your home. This will make the fish tank and stand further blend into the room and look as if it were always there. If most people only notice the fish tank and not the stand, you have been successful in finding the right one. A stand should not overpower the tank and its contents.
If you are making the large investment of a new fish tank, consider the added expense of a fish tank stand. There are many choices to choose from at almost pet supply stores, so finding the one that most meets your needs and budget shouldn't be too hard. If you are looking to provide the most stable stand to the tank, you may need a steel structure. If you are focused on the look of the stand, a wood stand is probably your best option.
For more information about Fish Tank Stands, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-2-Fish-Tank-Stands.html
Thursday, October 25, 2007
How Do You Properly Clean Your Hanging Fish Tank Filter?
By Arturo Ronzon
If you are looking to maintain the cleanest fish tank possible, you will need to learn how to clean your hanging fish tank filter. This process is fairly simple and will go far to keeping your tank as clean as it can be. Many people fail to see the importance of this chore and their tank and fish pay the price.
This process is so easy it can be performed in about half an hour. The first thing you need to do is to gently remove the filter from the aquarium and place it in a bucket. This will keep your floor dry as the filter will probably have water still in it.
You need to remove the old filter cartridge and throw it away. Take the filter unit itself apart. This includes the bowl and sponge inserts. Any part of the filter should be able to be removed. Examine each item closely to determine how dirty it is. If the filter seems to be extremely dirty and covered in algae or lime deposits, you may need to clean it a little more regular.
After you have taken apart the unit, you must now begin to clean it. It is recommended that you use a mild dish soap. This will help to prevent any harm to your fish if you fail to remove all of the cleaner before putting the filter back into the tank. Make certain to remove all of the dirty and algae-covered areas. This will ensure your new cartridge will work the most efficient and produce the best results.
When you put the filter back into the tank, it may be needed to add a little water to the filter tank. This will help in starting the filtering process for the new cartridge. Once all of the parts have been returned and the filter is put back into the water, it is now safe to turn the filter back on. This finishes the process and now your tank will provide healthy clean water for your fish and be better for you to look at.
For more information about Fish Tank Filter, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-1-Fish-Tank-Filter.html
If you are looking to maintain the cleanest fish tank possible, you will need to learn how to clean your hanging fish tank filter. This process is fairly simple and will go far to keeping your tank as clean as it can be. Many people fail to see the importance of this chore and their tank and fish pay the price.
This process is so easy it can be performed in about half an hour. The first thing you need to do is to gently remove the filter from the aquarium and place it in a bucket. This will keep your floor dry as the filter will probably have water still in it.
You need to remove the old filter cartridge and throw it away. Take the filter unit itself apart. This includes the bowl and sponge inserts. Any part of the filter should be able to be removed. Examine each item closely to determine how dirty it is. If the filter seems to be extremely dirty and covered in algae or lime deposits, you may need to clean it a little more regular.
After you have taken apart the unit, you must now begin to clean it. It is recommended that you use a mild dish soap. This will help to prevent any harm to your fish if you fail to remove all of the cleaner before putting the filter back into the tank. Make certain to remove all of the dirty and algae-covered areas. This will ensure your new cartridge will work the most efficient and produce the best results.
When you put the filter back into the tank, it may be needed to add a little water to the filter tank. This will help in starting the filtering process for the new cartridge. Once all of the parts have been returned and the filter is put back into the water, it is now safe to turn the filter back on. This finishes the process and now your tank will provide healthy clean water for your fish and be better for you to look at.
For more information about Fish Tank Filter, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/article-1-Fish-Tank-Filter.html
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Six Reasons Why You Should Never Neglect Changing Water In Your Aquarium Tank
By Richard Gilliland
pH Control � pH stands for hydrogen potenz. It is actually the concentration of hydrogen ions present in your aquarium tank, and as you know, hydrogen ion concentration refers to acidity of the water in the tank. As fishes live in the water, performing all their biological activities, the pH value is bound to change. The best way to ensure that the pH values remain conducive for the health of your fish is to change the water often.
Kh control � For the scientifically inclined people, Kh is the hydrolysis constant. Simply speaking, it is ability of water to buffer, which means, maintain a particular optimum level of the acids and bases in it. Changes occur in the fish tank over time due to the inclusion of chemicals produced from biological activity. That is one reason why the water has to be periodically changed.
Controlling nitrate levels � Ideally speaking, a saltwater aquarium must have a nitrate concentration of at the most 20 parts per million and a freshwater aquarium must have at the most 50 parts per million. Fish excretion is in the form of ammonia, which increases the nitrate level of the tank. There are protein skimmers available that can help to keep the nitrate levels to optimal levels within the tank. But these skimmers will not be able to remove the organic debris that collects in the tank from time to time. That is the reason why complete water changes become necessary. In fact, aquarium sellers do stress upon nitrate level maintenance as the most important reason for making periodical water changes.
Detoxifying the aquariums � Dead aquatic organisms, byproducts of metabolic activities in the fish and other aquarium residents and the excretion products of your fish will definitely introduce some toxic products in your aquarium tank. Some toxic materials can also enter from the external environment, such as when things drop into your tank or when some microorganisms enter through the air. They could play havoc with the health of your delicate fish. You cannot effectively monitor such toxic intrusions. The best way is to change water.
Cleaning aquarium accessories � If you have live elements in your aquarium tank such as live sand, live rock, sponges, bio balls, etc. it is best to provide them with clean water of aquarium standard to filter out the wastes that they produce from time to time.
Controlling algal growth � Algae are microscopic plants that grow in all types of aquatic environment. They grow faster in aquariums because the water there is stagnant and favorable for their growth. However, algae can pollute the water in the closed environment to drastic levels, which could also mean health problems to your fish. Not only that, algae will compete with the fish with the resources available in your aquarium. If you change the water from your aquarium regularly, you are also removing the algae that have grown in them.
Hence, water changes in your aquarium are a very important aspect of aquarium cleaning. They ensure that your fish live longer and healthier in the home you provide them.
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pH Control � pH stands for hydrogen potenz. It is actually the concentration of hydrogen ions present in your aquarium tank, and as you know, hydrogen ion concentration refers to acidity of the water in the tank. As fishes live in the water, performing all their biological activities, the pH value is bound to change. The best way to ensure that the pH values remain conducive for the health of your fish is to change the water often.
Kh control � For the scientifically inclined people, Kh is the hydrolysis constant. Simply speaking, it is ability of water to buffer, which means, maintain a particular optimum level of the acids and bases in it. Changes occur in the fish tank over time due to the inclusion of chemicals produced from biological activity. That is one reason why the water has to be periodically changed.
Controlling nitrate levels � Ideally speaking, a saltwater aquarium must have a nitrate concentration of at the most 20 parts per million and a freshwater aquarium must have at the most 50 parts per million. Fish excretion is in the form of ammonia, which increases the nitrate level of the tank. There are protein skimmers available that can help to keep the nitrate levels to optimal levels within the tank. But these skimmers will not be able to remove the organic debris that collects in the tank from time to time. That is the reason why complete water changes become necessary. In fact, aquarium sellers do stress upon nitrate level maintenance as the most important reason for making periodical water changes.
Detoxifying the aquariums � Dead aquatic organisms, byproducts of metabolic activities in the fish and other aquarium residents and the excretion products of your fish will definitely introduce some toxic products in your aquarium tank. Some toxic materials can also enter from the external environment, such as when things drop into your tank or when some microorganisms enter through the air. They could play havoc with the health of your delicate fish. You cannot effectively monitor such toxic intrusions. The best way is to change water.
Cleaning aquarium accessories � If you have live elements in your aquarium tank such as live sand, live rock, sponges, bio balls, etc. it is best to provide them with clean water of aquarium standard to filter out the wastes that they produce from time to time.
Controlling algal growth � Algae are microscopic plants that grow in all types of aquatic environment. They grow faster in aquariums because the water there is stagnant and favorable for their growth. However, algae can pollute the water in the closed environment to drastic levels, which could also mean health problems to your fish. Not only that, algae will compete with the fish with the resources available in your aquarium. If you change the water from your aquarium regularly, you are also removing the algae that have grown in them.
Hence, water changes in your aquarium are a very important aspect of aquarium cleaning. They ensure that your fish live longer and healthier in the home you provide them.
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Friday, October 19, 2007
What Supplies Do I Need for My Tropical Fish Tank?
By Arturo Ronzon
If you are in the market for a tropical fish tank, and aren't sure what supplies you will need to get at the pet store, know that there is a long list. To properly care for your tank and fish, you will need several things including a filter, heaters, and chemical purifying agents. The lack of any one of these supplies could lead to the death of the fish.
Any person operating a fish tank would be best advised to get a filter. This works greatly in ensuring the tank is kept clean and clear of waste and debris. Basically, the filter sucks in the water and cleans it before returning it to the tank. This keeps the water in the tank clear and allows the fish to live healthier. A clean tank could add years to the life of your tropical fish.
Tropical fish are used to swimming in warmer water. A tank heater will be needed to keep the water in your tank at the proper temperature. The most common form of a heater for tropical tanks is simply a light that warms the water from above. This is the cheapest way to keep your tropical tank warm enough for your pets.
Another way to keep your tank healthy is through the use of chemical cleaning agents. These chemicals usually pose no threat to the fish, but work well in cleaning and purifying the water. Chemical agents are usually sold as blocks or powder that dissolves into the fish tank in little or no time at all.
Any of these supplies can be bought at your local pet store. The absence of the proper equipment is the main reason your tropical fish will not stay healthy and live long. Before you invest money in tropical fish, make sure that you have all the things you need to keep the tank clean and working properly. This will keep your tropical fish healthy and happy, and save you a lot of money in replacing them.
For more information about Tropical Fish Tank Supply, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/Tropical-Fish-Tank-Supply.html
If you are in the market for a tropical fish tank, and aren't sure what supplies you will need to get at the pet store, know that there is a long list. To properly care for your tank and fish, you will need several things including a filter, heaters, and chemical purifying agents. The lack of any one of these supplies could lead to the death of the fish.
Any person operating a fish tank would be best advised to get a filter. This works greatly in ensuring the tank is kept clean and clear of waste and debris. Basically, the filter sucks in the water and cleans it before returning it to the tank. This keeps the water in the tank clear and allows the fish to live healthier. A clean tank could add years to the life of your tropical fish.
Tropical fish are used to swimming in warmer water. A tank heater will be needed to keep the water in your tank at the proper temperature. The most common form of a heater for tropical tanks is simply a light that warms the water from above. This is the cheapest way to keep your tropical tank warm enough for your pets.
Another way to keep your tank healthy is through the use of chemical cleaning agents. These chemicals usually pose no threat to the fish, but work well in cleaning and purifying the water. Chemical agents are usually sold as blocks or powder that dissolves into the fish tank in little or no time at all.
Any of these supplies can be bought at your local pet store. The absence of the proper equipment is the main reason your tropical fish will not stay healthy and live long. Before you invest money in tropical fish, make sure that you have all the things you need to keep the tank clean and working properly. This will keep your tropical fish healthy and happy, and save you a lot of money in replacing them.
For more information about Tropical Fish Tank Supply, feel free to visit us at: http://www.fish-tanks-land.com/Tropical-Fish-Tank-Supply.html
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Why Should You Have Ozone In The Reef Aquarium?
By Richard Gilliland
Ozone is present in the higher reaches of the earth's atmosphere � its density begins from 16 km above the earth's crust and it begins thinning out after 23 km. In between these atmospheric limits, ozone is continuously produced due to the action of sun's ultraviolet rays on oxygen. Ozone is also produced during lightings, and the fresh air we get to smell immediately after a thunderstorm has occurred is generally the smell of ozone.
Chemical experts have always maintained that ozone is fresher and more life-sustaining than oxygen. Since aquarium inhabitants also live by taking in the oxygen that is dissolved in their aquatic surroundings, they will live markedly better if they are provided ozone in their aquarium. Of course, getting an ozone supply for an aquarium can be very expensive, but it could be money well invested, especially if you really mean to give a good and healthy life to your reef tank inhabitants.
The following are some of the positive benefits that ozone contributes to a reef tank aquarium:-
1. Ozone is a purifying agent. Normally, we use chlorine in aquarium media to take care of unwanted inhabitants like bacteria, algae, viruses and other such microorganisms. But ozone can treat this water thousand times better than chlorine can. If you think about it, this can be how you can actually save money, since you will need only a little ozone to purify your tank than the large quantity of chlorine you will have to use.
2. Ozone helps in the eliminations of wastes that the aquatic inhabitants will produce. It oxidizes the pollutants in the tank and brings them to a form from which they can be discarded properly.
3. Ozone is also a disinfecting agent. Since it can combat with most pathogens, ozone can make the residents of the aquarium live healthier and longer.
4. Ozone enhances the quality of the water. Ozone is a fresh gas, present in the higher realms of the atmosphere where it is purer. The same kind of purity is brought into the reef tank when ozone is used in it. Ozonized water is odorless, colorless and tasteless.
5. Ozone does not leave chemical wastes in the water when it is passed through it. That means, when water is ozonized, there will be effectively less amount of wastes and chemical discharges into the water.
Ozone can be continuously produced in aquarium tanks by machines that are known as ozonizers. There are different types of ozonizers based on the principle on which they work, such as the corona discharge ozonizers and the ultraviolet ozonizers. The corona discharge ozonizers can produce stables quantities of ozone for a long time, and so they are better for bigger aquariums.
They are also costlier. For home purposes, ozonizers that generate ozone using ultraviolet lamps are much more suitable and economical.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Ozone is present in the higher reaches of the earth's atmosphere � its density begins from 16 km above the earth's crust and it begins thinning out after 23 km. In between these atmospheric limits, ozone is continuously produced due to the action of sun's ultraviolet rays on oxygen. Ozone is also produced during lightings, and the fresh air we get to smell immediately after a thunderstorm has occurred is generally the smell of ozone.
Chemical experts have always maintained that ozone is fresher and more life-sustaining than oxygen. Since aquarium inhabitants also live by taking in the oxygen that is dissolved in their aquatic surroundings, they will live markedly better if they are provided ozone in their aquarium. Of course, getting an ozone supply for an aquarium can be very expensive, but it could be money well invested, especially if you really mean to give a good and healthy life to your reef tank inhabitants.
The following are some of the positive benefits that ozone contributes to a reef tank aquarium:-
1. Ozone is a purifying agent. Normally, we use chlorine in aquarium media to take care of unwanted inhabitants like bacteria, algae, viruses and other such microorganisms. But ozone can treat this water thousand times better than chlorine can. If you think about it, this can be how you can actually save money, since you will need only a little ozone to purify your tank than the large quantity of chlorine you will have to use.
2. Ozone helps in the eliminations of wastes that the aquatic inhabitants will produce. It oxidizes the pollutants in the tank and brings them to a form from which they can be discarded properly.
3. Ozone is also a disinfecting agent. Since it can combat with most pathogens, ozone can make the residents of the aquarium live healthier and longer.
4. Ozone enhances the quality of the water. Ozone is a fresh gas, present in the higher realms of the atmosphere where it is purer. The same kind of purity is brought into the reef tank when ozone is used in it. Ozonized water is odorless, colorless and tasteless.
5. Ozone does not leave chemical wastes in the water when it is passed through it. That means, when water is ozonized, there will be effectively less amount of wastes and chemical discharges into the water.
Ozone can be continuously produced in aquarium tanks by machines that are known as ozonizers. There are different types of ozonizers based on the principle on which they work, such as the corona discharge ozonizers and the ultraviolet ozonizers. The corona discharge ozonizers can produce stables quantities of ozone for a long time, and so they are better for bigger aquariums.
They are also costlier. For home purposes, ozonizers that generate ozone using ultraviolet lamps are much more suitable and economical.
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Monday, October 15, 2007
Fish's Use of Our Life
By Praba Kar
High levels can cause severe stress, whereas slightly elevated levels can contribute to chronic stress. Temperature fluctuations are a much under appreciated stressor of fish. Most tropical freshwater and marine fish do not tolerate temperature changes very well. Many tanks that are not set up properly will have over the recommended maximum of one degree of temperature fluctuation in a 24-hour period due to room temperature, lights, and equipment. The daily fluctuations will create chronic stress as will having too low or too high of a temperature in the tank for the species of fish present.
Many fish adapt to long-term changes, but there are limits. pH levels that change abruptly cause acute stress and continually elevated or lowered pH levels can cause chronic stress. pH changes of more than 1.5 points below or above recommended levels are going to have a negative effect over time and should never be considered acceptable.
Their bodies work hard to maintain the osmotic gradient between themselves and their environment. Wild fish live within very specific salinity levels (levels of salt in the water). If their environmental salinity is not specific to their needs and is not held at a steady level, they have to work harder to maintain their osmotic gradient, which generates chronic stress.
Oxygen levels that are below recommended levels can cause fish to 'breathe' faster than optimum and this can result in chronic stress. Obviously, very low oxygen levels can lead to severe short-term stress and death.
There should be two suitable hiding spaces for every fish in the tank, otherwise, there are going to be fish that are stressed and bullied. Remember that unlike their environment in the wild, these fish are confined and cannot get away from aggressors. Aggression is a very real problem in many tanks that leads to many injuries, infections, and death. For more information www.indomunch.com
Representing Fish�s Use of Our Life in the website http://www.indomunch.com/
High levels can cause severe stress, whereas slightly elevated levels can contribute to chronic stress. Temperature fluctuations are a much under appreciated stressor of fish. Most tropical freshwater and marine fish do not tolerate temperature changes very well. Many tanks that are not set up properly will have over the recommended maximum of one degree of temperature fluctuation in a 24-hour period due to room temperature, lights, and equipment. The daily fluctuations will create chronic stress as will having too low or too high of a temperature in the tank for the species of fish present.
Many fish adapt to long-term changes, but there are limits. pH levels that change abruptly cause acute stress and continually elevated or lowered pH levels can cause chronic stress. pH changes of more than 1.5 points below or above recommended levels are going to have a negative effect over time and should never be considered acceptable.
Their bodies work hard to maintain the osmotic gradient between themselves and their environment. Wild fish live within very specific salinity levels (levels of salt in the water). If their environmental salinity is not specific to their needs and is not held at a steady level, they have to work harder to maintain their osmotic gradient, which generates chronic stress.
Oxygen levels that are below recommended levels can cause fish to 'breathe' faster than optimum and this can result in chronic stress. Obviously, very low oxygen levels can lead to severe short-term stress and death.
There should be two suitable hiding spaces for every fish in the tank, otherwise, there are going to be fish that are stressed and bullied. Remember that unlike their environment in the wild, these fish are confined and cannot get away from aggressors. Aggression is a very real problem in many tanks that leads to many injuries, infections, and death. For more information www.indomunch.com
Representing Fish�s Use of Our Life in the website http://www.indomunch.com/
Saturday, October 13, 2007
Setting Up Your First Saltwater Fish Tank Is Easier Than You Think
By Scott Cole
For many people thinking about setting up an aquarium, the immediate thought is to avoid saltwater tanks because they are to complicated. Saltwater or marine aquariums once setup can be as complex or as simple as you want them to be. You don�t have to have a tank full of corals and delicate invertebrates to enjoy the vibrant colors found in saltwater tanks. Whether you are new to the aquarium hobby or have kept tropical fish in the past, anyone can have a saltwater tank. To be successful does not mean you just throw some water into a tank and head to the local pet store however; some preparation and thought do need to go into setting up your tank.
Without getting too complex, the basic equipment you will need in addition to a tank will include a good quality filter, a heater and lighting. Saltwater tanks will also require that you purchase a hydrometer to measure salt levels in the water. I don�t want to give you the impression that this is an all-inclusive list; this is just the basics to get you up and running. Most local pet stores sell aquarium starter kits that include all the basic equipment. Some larger pet stores will even have kits setup specifically for saltwater fish.
When selecting which equipment to purchase there are a couple things to keep in mind. The most important item you purchase is not the tank or the lights it is the filter. The filter is the heart of your tank. A poor or inadequate filter will quickly lead to the demise of your tank inhabitants. There are a number or different types of filters on the market from canisters and wet-dry to the cheaper �waterfall� types that hang on the back of the tank. For a fish only tank, any of these will work. I recommend getting a filter that is sized for a tank slightly bigger than the one you are setting up. By up-sizing the filter, you are not maxing out its performance and it will easily handle the biological load of the tank provided you follow the manufacture recommended cleaning cycle.
Next let�s discuss the tanks lighting. What good is it to have beautiful, vibrant saltwater fish if you can�t see them? Before you go out and buy an expensive light fixture there are a couple of things to consider. Look at the location of the tank in your home and consider how much natural sun light your tank will receive during the day. A tank that receives good natural lighting through out the day may not need to be artificially lit until the evening hours. Consider next the needs of the tanks inhabitants. Most fish do not require high intensity lighting to be happy and healthy. A lighting fixture utilizing compact florescent tubes should be adequate. Since this article deals with a simple fish only marine tank, specialty lighting for corals and invertebrates is not needed.
Once you have setup your tank and filled it with water, it�s time to add the salt. Your local pet store will most likely carry a couple of different brands of salt mix for your tank. Most commercially available mixes contain the same components and will work just fine. Slowly add the salt to your tank until the reading on your hydrometer shows a specific gravity in the range of 1.020 to 1.023. You can typically begin to add fish in a couple of days but it is a good practice to allow the tank to �cycle� for the next two weeks prior to adding fish. Before adding any fish it is a good idea to recheck the specific gravity of the water and make sure your water temperature is comfortable for the fish your planning to add. When adding fish to a new tank it is a good practice to start with heartier fish species like Damsels. Damsels are cheaper and can adapt to harsher water conditions typical in a new tank. After a couple of weeks, you can begin to add more fish.
For additional information please visit http://saltwaterfishtanksetup.blogspot.com/
For many people thinking about setting up an aquarium, the immediate thought is to avoid saltwater tanks because they are to complicated. Saltwater or marine aquariums once setup can be as complex or as simple as you want them to be. You don�t have to have a tank full of corals and delicate invertebrates to enjoy the vibrant colors found in saltwater tanks. Whether you are new to the aquarium hobby or have kept tropical fish in the past, anyone can have a saltwater tank. To be successful does not mean you just throw some water into a tank and head to the local pet store however; some preparation and thought do need to go into setting up your tank.
Without getting too complex, the basic equipment you will need in addition to a tank will include a good quality filter, a heater and lighting. Saltwater tanks will also require that you purchase a hydrometer to measure salt levels in the water. I don�t want to give you the impression that this is an all-inclusive list; this is just the basics to get you up and running. Most local pet stores sell aquarium starter kits that include all the basic equipment. Some larger pet stores will even have kits setup specifically for saltwater fish.
When selecting which equipment to purchase there are a couple things to keep in mind. The most important item you purchase is not the tank or the lights it is the filter. The filter is the heart of your tank. A poor or inadequate filter will quickly lead to the demise of your tank inhabitants. There are a number or different types of filters on the market from canisters and wet-dry to the cheaper �waterfall� types that hang on the back of the tank. For a fish only tank, any of these will work. I recommend getting a filter that is sized for a tank slightly bigger than the one you are setting up. By up-sizing the filter, you are not maxing out its performance and it will easily handle the biological load of the tank provided you follow the manufacture recommended cleaning cycle.
Next let�s discuss the tanks lighting. What good is it to have beautiful, vibrant saltwater fish if you can�t see them? Before you go out and buy an expensive light fixture there are a couple of things to consider. Look at the location of the tank in your home and consider how much natural sun light your tank will receive during the day. A tank that receives good natural lighting through out the day may not need to be artificially lit until the evening hours. Consider next the needs of the tanks inhabitants. Most fish do not require high intensity lighting to be happy and healthy. A lighting fixture utilizing compact florescent tubes should be adequate. Since this article deals with a simple fish only marine tank, specialty lighting for corals and invertebrates is not needed.
Once you have setup your tank and filled it with water, it�s time to add the salt. Your local pet store will most likely carry a couple of different brands of salt mix for your tank. Most commercially available mixes contain the same components and will work just fine. Slowly add the salt to your tank until the reading on your hydrometer shows a specific gravity in the range of 1.020 to 1.023. You can typically begin to add fish in a couple of days but it is a good practice to allow the tank to �cycle� for the next two weeks prior to adding fish. Before adding any fish it is a good idea to recheck the specific gravity of the water and make sure your water temperature is comfortable for the fish your planning to add. When adding fish to a new tank it is a good practice to start with heartier fish species like Damsels. Damsels are cheaper and can adapt to harsher water conditions typical in a new tank. After a couple of weeks, you can begin to add more fish.
For additional information please visit http://saltwaterfishtanksetup.blogspot.com/
Thursday, October 11, 2007
The Secrets Of Breeding Discus As A Hobby
By Pius Ephenus
Discus breeding as a hobby has become so popular worldwide that discus fish keeping has turn into a multi-million dollar industry and discus aquariums is fast becoming the home of this exotic fish. For a lot of breeders, raising this exotic fish as hobby brings huge satisfaction especially when they manage to get some cute baby discus too. It is quite rewarding to see what start as hobby raising discus has turn out to be a lifetime experience. Now what's special about keeping discus as a hobby? Fish breeding is a challenge and many aquarists find that attractive. What make discus fish special as a pet is it beauty and unique social behavior.
It is quite a surprise to those who breed discus as a hobby to notice after sometime that discus begin to show signs of connection to the environment outside the tank in which they reside in. You know breeding discus as a hobby require spending time attending to the welfare of the fish(i.e feeding, checking the tank constantly,lighting etc). It is said that discus recognize it owner quite quickly and they can get close to you as far as even to eat from your hand. It has also been noticed by some discus owner while breeding them that it watch them move round the room and even react to Tv noise.
Apart from their shy and generally peaceful aquarium inhabitants, discus are sensitive to stress and disturbance or lack of protection, they like quiet and close community with other fellow fish from the same species. As an aquarist, you may need to pay close attention to discus cohabitants especially since they like close communities and living with other fish from the same species. It has also been claimed by some aquarists that keeping them together with other species like angelfish will introduce parasites or diseases and small characides like tetras. It is noticeable that the dominant discus would be the first to couple and followed by others if Aquarium water chemistry, Feeding, Lighting and other breeding conditions are met. Once you've notice the couple while breeding discus, you should move pairs into another tank to allow them to raise fry.
Those who takes breeding discus as a hobby, it is important discus living conditions are constantly monitored. You should be careful with the lighting because too much light will warm the water above accepted level and reduces the oxygen level. There's not a lot of difference between breeding discus as a hobby or as a professional, discus require the same amount of attention in respective of which side you belong.
Victor Ephenus owns Discus Fish Resources website discusfishresources.com with informations helping beginners and advanced fish keepers with discus problems including keeping and breeding them. Please visit the site for more information on discus fish and breeding discus.
Discus breeding as a hobby has become so popular worldwide that discus fish keeping has turn into a multi-million dollar industry and discus aquariums is fast becoming the home of this exotic fish. For a lot of breeders, raising this exotic fish as hobby brings huge satisfaction especially when they manage to get some cute baby discus too. It is quite rewarding to see what start as hobby raising discus has turn out to be a lifetime experience. Now what's special about keeping discus as a hobby? Fish breeding is a challenge and many aquarists find that attractive. What make discus fish special as a pet is it beauty and unique social behavior.
It is quite a surprise to those who breed discus as a hobby to notice after sometime that discus begin to show signs of connection to the environment outside the tank in which they reside in. You know breeding discus as a hobby require spending time attending to the welfare of the fish(i.e feeding, checking the tank constantly,lighting etc). It is said that discus recognize it owner quite quickly and they can get close to you as far as even to eat from your hand. It has also been noticed by some discus owner while breeding them that it watch them move round the room and even react to Tv noise.
Apart from their shy and generally peaceful aquarium inhabitants, discus are sensitive to stress and disturbance or lack of protection, they like quiet and close community with other fellow fish from the same species. As an aquarist, you may need to pay close attention to discus cohabitants especially since they like close communities and living with other fish from the same species. It has also been claimed by some aquarists that keeping them together with other species like angelfish will introduce parasites or diseases and small characides like tetras. It is noticeable that the dominant discus would be the first to couple and followed by others if Aquarium water chemistry, Feeding, Lighting and other breeding conditions are met. Once you've notice the couple while breeding discus, you should move pairs into another tank to allow them to raise fry.
Those who takes breeding discus as a hobby, it is important discus living conditions are constantly monitored. You should be careful with the lighting because too much light will warm the water above accepted level and reduces the oxygen level. There's not a lot of difference between breeding discus as a hobby or as a professional, discus require the same amount of attention in respective of which side you belong.
Victor Ephenus owns Discus Fish Resources website discusfishresources.com with informations helping beginners and advanced fish keepers with discus problems including keeping and breeding them. Please visit the site for more information on discus fish and breeding discus.
Tuesday, October 9, 2007
Puffers - Freshwater, Brackish Or Marine?
By Rodrigo Flores
The reason most puffers die within the first months of captivity is that the local fish store fails tremendously to inform their customers about the requirements of their new fish. I have seen many puffers either mislabled or not labled at all in fresh water tanks, slowlly dying. The key is to know what species you are getting (even if your fish store does not tell you) and to know what kind of water they need.
This is a quick guide to determine which puffers are from freshwater, brackish and marine.
Fresh water Puffers:
Auriglobus modestus; --- Bronze puffer
Carinotetraodon borneensis; --- Bornean redeyed puffer
Carinotetraodon irrubesco; --- Red tailed redeye puffer
Carinotetraodon salivator; --- Striped redeye puffer
Carinotetraodon travancoricus; --- Dwarf Puffer
Colomesus asellus; --- South American Puffer
Monotrete abei; --- Abei Puffer
Tetraodon baileyi; --- 'Hairy' puffer
Tetraodon barbatus
Tetraodon cochinchinensis; --- Fangs Puffer
Tetraodon cutcutia; --- Common Puffer
Tetraodon duboisi; --- Dubois' Freshwater Puffer
Tetraodon lineatus; ---Fahaka puffer
Tetraodon mbu; --- Mbu Puffer
Tetraodon miurus; --- Congo Puffer
Tetraodon palembangensis; --- Palembang Puffer
Tetraodon pustulatus; --- Cross River Puffer
Tetraodon suvattii; --- Arrowhead Puffer
Tetraodon turgidus; --- Brown Puffer
Brackish Puffers
Colomesus psittacus; --- Banded Puffer
Tetraodon biocellatus; --- Figure Eight Puffer
Tetraodon erythrotaenia; --- Red-striped Toadfish
Tetraodon fluviatilis; --- Ceylon Puffer
Tetraodon nigroviridis; --- Green Spotted Puffer
Tetraodon Sabahensis; --- Giant Spotted Puffer
Marine Puffers
Arothron caerulopunctatus; --- Blue-spotted Puffer
Arothron diadematus; --- Masked Puffer
Arothron hispidus; --- White-spotted puffer
Arothron manilensis; --- Narrow-lined Puffer
Arothron mappa; --- Map puffer
Arothron meleagris; --- Guineafowl Puffer
Arothron nigropunctatus; --- Dog-faced Puffer
Arothron reticularis; --- Reticulated Puffer
Arothron stellatus; --- Starry Toadfish
Canthigaster bennetti; --- Bennett's Sharpnose Puffer
Canthigaster coronata; --- Crowned Puffer
Canthigaster papua; --- Papuan Toby
Canthigaster rostrata; --- Caribbean Sharpnose Puffer
Canthigaster solandri; --- Spotted Sharpnose
Canthigaster valentini; --- Saddled Puffer
Diodon holocanthus; --- Porcupine Puffer
Sphoeroides annulatus; --- Bullseye Puffer
Sphoeroides marmoratus; --- Guinean Puffer
Takifugu niphobles; --- Niphobles Puffer
Takifugu oblongus; --- Lattice Blaasop
Takifugu ocellatus; --- Fugu Puffer
Takifugu pardalis; --- Panther Puffer
Takifugu rubripes; --- Tiger Puffer
Check out my other articles and some fish pics in my blog: http://www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
The reason most puffers die within the first months of captivity is that the local fish store fails tremendously to inform their customers about the requirements of their new fish. I have seen many puffers either mislabled or not labled at all in fresh water tanks, slowlly dying. The key is to know what species you are getting (even if your fish store does not tell you) and to know what kind of water they need.
This is a quick guide to determine which puffers are from freshwater, brackish and marine.
Fresh water Puffers:
Auriglobus modestus; --- Bronze puffer
Carinotetraodon borneensis; --- Bornean redeyed puffer
Carinotetraodon irrubesco; --- Red tailed redeye puffer
Carinotetraodon salivator; --- Striped redeye puffer
Carinotetraodon travancoricus; --- Dwarf Puffer
Colomesus asellus; --- South American Puffer
Monotrete abei; --- Abei Puffer
Tetraodon baileyi; --- 'Hairy' puffer
Tetraodon barbatus
Tetraodon cochinchinensis; --- Fangs Puffer
Tetraodon cutcutia; --- Common Puffer
Tetraodon duboisi; --- Dubois' Freshwater Puffer
Tetraodon lineatus; ---Fahaka puffer
Tetraodon mbu; --- Mbu Puffer
Tetraodon miurus; --- Congo Puffer
Tetraodon palembangensis; --- Palembang Puffer
Tetraodon pustulatus; --- Cross River Puffer
Tetraodon suvattii; --- Arrowhead Puffer
Tetraodon turgidus; --- Brown Puffer
Brackish Puffers
Colomesus psittacus; --- Banded Puffer
Tetraodon biocellatus; --- Figure Eight Puffer
Tetraodon erythrotaenia; --- Red-striped Toadfish
Tetraodon fluviatilis; --- Ceylon Puffer
Tetraodon nigroviridis; --- Green Spotted Puffer
Tetraodon Sabahensis; --- Giant Spotted Puffer
Marine Puffers
Arothron caerulopunctatus; --- Blue-spotted Puffer
Arothron diadematus; --- Masked Puffer
Arothron hispidus; --- White-spotted puffer
Arothron manilensis; --- Narrow-lined Puffer
Arothron mappa; --- Map puffer
Arothron meleagris; --- Guineafowl Puffer
Arothron nigropunctatus; --- Dog-faced Puffer
Arothron reticularis; --- Reticulated Puffer
Arothron stellatus; --- Starry Toadfish
Canthigaster bennetti; --- Bennett's Sharpnose Puffer
Canthigaster coronata; --- Crowned Puffer
Canthigaster papua; --- Papuan Toby
Canthigaster rostrata; --- Caribbean Sharpnose Puffer
Canthigaster solandri; --- Spotted Sharpnose
Canthigaster valentini; --- Saddled Puffer
Diodon holocanthus; --- Porcupine Puffer
Sphoeroides annulatus; --- Bullseye Puffer
Sphoeroides marmoratus; --- Guinean Puffer
Takifugu niphobles; --- Niphobles Puffer
Takifugu oblongus; --- Lattice Blaasop
Takifugu ocellatus; --- Fugu Puffer
Takifugu pardalis; --- Panther Puffer
Takifugu rubripes; --- Tiger Puffer
Check out my other articles and some fish pics in my blog: http://www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
Sunday, October 7, 2007
How to Prevent Betta Fish Fin Rot
By Jason Osborn
Fin rot is one of the most common things that you have to watch out for with your betta. Of course the best way to deal with fin rot is to prevent it from ever happening. So how do you prevent fin rot from happening? Here are a few great tips.
The fist thing that you need to know is that fin rot is a bacterial infection that happens when a torn fin drags across the gravel. The tail is the most common place for this to happen. Your betta's fins rest on the tank or floor and soak up the bad bacteria.
The simple solution for this is to keep both the water and the gravel clean. One trick that you can do as well is to toys like caves, silk plants, snail shells, or other things that your betta can rest on. Bettas like to rest so this is a great way to help make sure that they stay off the gravel.
So on to the gravel and water cleaning. Use a turkey baster to remove the gravel scum. Do this as often as you think about it. As far as the water, change it every one to two days and add a little aquarium salt to make the water less hospitable for bacteria.
You can use medications for fin rot; however these medications can often have side effects that could make things worse. This is why I recommend using fresh water and salt as your first line of defence against fin rot.
Do you want to take the best care of your betta fish?
Click here to discover the secrets of giving the best care to your betta: Betta Fish Care
Fin rot is one of the most common things that you have to watch out for with your betta. Of course the best way to deal with fin rot is to prevent it from ever happening. So how do you prevent fin rot from happening? Here are a few great tips.
The fist thing that you need to know is that fin rot is a bacterial infection that happens when a torn fin drags across the gravel. The tail is the most common place for this to happen. Your betta's fins rest on the tank or floor and soak up the bad bacteria.
The simple solution for this is to keep both the water and the gravel clean. One trick that you can do as well is to toys like caves, silk plants, snail shells, or other things that your betta can rest on. Bettas like to rest so this is a great way to help make sure that they stay off the gravel.
So on to the gravel and water cleaning. Use a turkey baster to remove the gravel scum. Do this as often as you think about it. As far as the water, change it every one to two days and add a little aquarium salt to make the water less hospitable for bacteria.
You can use medications for fin rot; however these medications can often have side effects that could make things worse. This is why I recommend using fresh water and salt as your first line of defence against fin rot.
Do you want to take the best care of your betta fish?
Click here to discover the secrets of giving the best care to your betta: Betta Fish Care
Friday, October 5, 2007
5 Top Ways to Care For Your Betta Fish
By Jason Osborn
Betta fish are a very popular type of fish. They are also called Siamese fighting fish. Betta fish are fairly simple to care for which makes it a great fish to have if you don't want to have a lot of maintainance.
One of the first things you should do when you bring your betta fish home is to get familiar with it's movements and moods. This is important so you can know when something is wrong with your betta fish.
Here are 5 great ways to make sure you take great care of your betta fish.
1. Make sure that you keep your betta in the cleanest water possible. You don't need a filtration system however, you do need to keep the water clean so that your betta fish doesn't get any fungal or bacterial infections. The best way to keep the water clean is to replace one third of the water every two or three days. Make sure that you use aged water, water set out for 24 hours, to replace the old water.
2. Your betta fish needs to get plenty of oxygen so make sure that the bowl you keep your betta in has a large opening at the top. Also make sure that you keep your fish in a bowl large enough where it's not bumping into the edges as it swims.
3. Make sure the you keep the PH levels of your tank at exactly 7.0. If your not sure what the PH levels are, you can get a test kit at your local pet store.
4. Watch out for jumping fish! Your betta fish will jump and the last thing you want is to find it on the floor. Make sure to cover your tank or bowl and keep the water level at least two inches from the top.
5. Of course the best way to care for your betta fish is to treat it as you would yourself. Feed it when it needs food, keep the water and bowl clean, and if it gets sick, take it to the vet.
Discover the best ways to care for your betta fish by visiting here: Betta Fish Care
Betta fish are a very popular type of fish. They are also called Siamese fighting fish. Betta fish are fairly simple to care for which makes it a great fish to have if you don't want to have a lot of maintainance.
One of the first things you should do when you bring your betta fish home is to get familiar with it's movements and moods. This is important so you can know when something is wrong with your betta fish.
Here are 5 great ways to make sure you take great care of your betta fish.
1. Make sure that you keep your betta in the cleanest water possible. You don't need a filtration system however, you do need to keep the water clean so that your betta fish doesn't get any fungal or bacterial infections. The best way to keep the water clean is to replace one third of the water every two or three days. Make sure that you use aged water, water set out for 24 hours, to replace the old water.
2. Your betta fish needs to get plenty of oxygen so make sure that the bowl you keep your betta in has a large opening at the top. Also make sure that you keep your fish in a bowl large enough where it's not bumping into the edges as it swims.
3. Make sure the you keep the PH levels of your tank at exactly 7.0. If your not sure what the PH levels are, you can get a test kit at your local pet store.
4. Watch out for jumping fish! Your betta fish will jump and the last thing you want is to find it on the floor. Make sure to cover your tank or bowl and keep the water level at least two inches from the top.
5. Of course the best way to care for your betta fish is to treat it as you would yourself. Feed it when it needs food, keep the water and bowl clean, and if it gets sick, take it to the vet.
Discover the best ways to care for your betta fish by visiting here: Betta Fish Care
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Starting Out In Tropical Fishkeeping
By Jonathan Castro
A well designed, fully stocked aquarium is a very attractive feature, and watching fish swim relaxes the mind! But before you venture out into keeping tropical fish, ensure you have enough money at hand, as there are quite a few things you will be buying: a glass tank with lid, a flourescent bulb, an under-gravel filter, an air pump with plastic tubing and airstones, an attractive background strip for the tank, fish food, a heater, a thermometer, a fish net, a wide-diameter flexible tube (useful for draining water out of the tank), rocks, gravel, warm water plants and Aquasafe (or another such chemical - for de-chlorinating tap water). Take a trip to the best local pet shop and have a wander round to get an idea of how much everything will cost. Then get ready to take the plunge!
Before you buy any fish, set up the tank with the under-gravel filter in place, topped with a fairly deep layer of washed gravel (wash it beforehand or your water will end up mucky!), rocks, etc. Install the water heater, the air pump & lines, and fix the decorative backing to the tank. Make sure that before you put anything in the tank (filter, gravel, etc), that the tank is positioned in a suitable location, and on top of a foam lining or thick blanket. This is to prevent the glass bottom of the tank cracking due to any unevenness in the surface on which the tank is placed. The tank will be heavy when full, so locate it somewhere safe where there is no possibility of any instability or failure in the supporting structure. Many tanks come with an optional supporting stand or cabinet.
When you have set up the tank in the desired location, fill it up with tap water which has been appropriately treated (e.g. by using Aquasafe). Turn on the air line and water heater. Then wait for at least 3 weeks before buying any fish. After a day, check that the temperature of the water is between about 75 and 82 F (24-28 C). A temperature of 77 F (25C) is ideal. Adjust the thermostat on the water heater if necessary to achieve this temperature.
After 3 weeks, you are then ready to buy some fish. A wise tactic is to start with only a handful of fish (i.e. 5 or 6), then if these survive you can slowly add more. You will need a fairly local pet store to buy the fish from, to prevent the water cooling too much during your return journey (as this will kill off the fish). Setting up a fishtank during the summer months is ideal, as this will make it easier to transport fish safely without the risk of water cooling. Alternatively, run the heater in your car for a short while before you go to buy the fish, to create a warm atmosphere. When you have brought the fish back home, place the bags in the water and wait for about 20 minutes to enable the temperature to equalize. Then open the bags and carefully empty them, with the fish, into the tank.
You should keep the flourescent light on for most of the day, but you can switch it off at night. Feed the fish once a day, at the same time each day if possible. If a fish dies, take it out of the water as soon as possible. Initially, check every day to make sure no fish have died. Every few weeks, do a partial water change. Don't allow any plants to clog up the tank. Plants such as Elodea grow very quickly, and will need cutting back. You can throw away the excess plant growth or donate it to a fellow fish enthusiast! If you are having problems with fish dying, check the quality of the water. You can buy a testing kit or take a couple of water samples to your local pet store to get them checked.
Happy fishkeeping!
Jonathan Castro is a transport planner and web entrepreneur. He is the manager of several websites, including http://www.fishguides.co.uk and http://www.antichurch.org.uk
A well designed, fully stocked aquarium is a very attractive feature, and watching fish swim relaxes the mind! But before you venture out into keeping tropical fish, ensure you have enough money at hand, as there are quite a few things you will be buying: a glass tank with lid, a flourescent bulb, an under-gravel filter, an air pump with plastic tubing and airstones, an attractive background strip for the tank, fish food, a heater, a thermometer, a fish net, a wide-diameter flexible tube (useful for draining water out of the tank), rocks, gravel, warm water plants and Aquasafe (or another such chemical - for de-chlorinating tap water). Take a trip to the best local pet shop and have a wander round to get an idea of how much everything will cost. Then get ready to take the plunge!
Before you buy any fish, set up the tank with the under-gravel filter in place, topped with a fairly deep layer of washed gravel (wash it beforehand or your water will end up mucky!), rocks, etc. Install the water heater, the air pump & lines, and fix the decorative backing to the tank. Make sure that before you put anything in the tank (filter, gravel, etc), that the tank is positioned in a suitable location, and on top of a foam lining or thick blanket. This is to prevent the glass bottom of the tank cracking due to any unevenness in the surface on which the tank is placed. The tank will be heavy when full, so locate it somewhere safe where there is no possibility of any instability or failure in the supporting structure. Many tanks come with an optional supporting stand or cabinet.
When you have set up the tank in the desired location, fill it up with tap water which has been appropriately treated (e.g. by using Aquasafe). Turn on the air line and water heater. Then wait for at least 3 weeks before buying any fish. After a day, check that the temperature of the water is between about 75 and 82 F (24-28 C). A temperature of 77 F (25C) is ideal. Adjust the thermostat on the water heater if necessary to achieve this temperature.
After 3 weeks, you are then ready to buy some fish. A wise tactic is to start with only a handful of fish (i.e. 5 or 6), then if these survive you can slowly add more. You will need a fairly local pet store to buy the fish from, to prevent the water cooling too much during your return journey (as this will kill off the fish). Setting up a fishtank during the summer months is ideal, as this will make it easier to transport fish safely without the risk of water cooling. Alternatively, run the heater in your car for a short while before you go to buy the fish, to create a warm atmosphere. When you have brought the fish back home, place the bags in the water and wait for about 20 minutes to enable the temperature to equalize. Then open the bags and carefully empty them, with the fish, into the tank.
You should keep the flourescent light on for most of the day, but you can switch it off at night. Feed the fish once a day, at the same time each day if possible. If a fish dies, take it out of the water as soon as possible. Initially, check every day to make sure no fish have died. Every few weeks, do a partial water change. Don't allow any plants to clog up the tank. Plants such as Elodea grow very quickly, and will need cutting back. You can throw away the excess plant growth or donate it to a fellow fish enthusiast! If you are having problems with fish dying, check the quality of the water. You can buy a testing kit or take a couple of water samples to your local pet store to get them checked.
Happy fishkeeping!
Jonathan Castro is a transport planner and web entrepreneur. He is the manager of several websites, including http://www.fishguides.co.uk and http://www.antichurch.org.uk
Monday, October 1, 2007
Breeding Dwarf Seahorses
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Rodrigo_Flores]Rodrigo Flores
I love Seahorses, I'm sure you have figured that by now. In the past I have kept several different types of horses and pipefish, I have even collected some of my own in the Caribbean!!! The one species I had not had and that I wanted was the Dwarf Seahorse, Hippocampus zosterae. So at the beginning of spring when we took the boys to Disney World, I though this is my chance to go a little bit further south and get myself some Dwarfs!!! All the way down there the boys where giddy about the rides they would ride, the food, the hotel and the beach� I was just as giddy about the Seahorses� We stayed a little over a week in Disney and finally the day had come to go finding my own H. zosterae. I had spoken with several people about collecting fish in Florida and I found out that all I needed was a fishing license and good luck. I was also told that you could find H. Zosterae in the Indian River all they way up to Cape Canaveral down to the keys. I spent several days going up and down the Indian River, we did not make it as far south as I wanted but we made it to Vero Beach. No Seahorses!!! Not even one� I found some pretty nudibranchs and some other things but no Seahorses� So I had to come home.
But then I found The Florida Collector. I ordered 20 Seahorses all for my own. I set them up in one 40-gallon Eclipse tank with 2 biowheels and I put the intake in a Hydrosponge so the horses would not get sucked up. The tank had been running for over a year and had served as a hospital/quarantine tank for my larger marine tanks. The problem with H. Zosterae, and this is the reason why I had not kept them before, is that they only eat live food and it must be really small, the Seahorses themselves are about 1 to 1 1/2 inches total lenght. Rachel (my wife) had made a point that I would have to feed the fish and she would not help with the whole artemia hatching, rinsing and feeding procedures until now. Since I am not at home most of the day she would have to take care of a big part of the feeding schedules. To be able to feed them brine shrimp and it be enough for them, you have to hatch at least 2 batches per day and feed them right away while the nauplii (baby shrimp) still has some of the yolk sack and the exoskeleton is soft.
After a few days of feeding them we noticed that the tank was too big for them. They would hitch to something near the bottom and the artemia would swim near the top missing the seahorses by over half the tank. So we moved them to 5-gallon tanks. We separated them by pairs or what we thought where pairs and we waited. They did really well� After a few weeks we noticed that one of the males was �dancing� with a smaller female. By now we could tell them apart by coloration, shape and size. About a week later the male seemed to have a bigger belly and about 2 weeks later we had babies. At first just 2 or 3 but by the next day we had about 25!!! Then some of the other males followed suit, and soon we had more seahorses than we knew what to do with.
The babies don�t eat for the first day or two since they have some yolk left. After that we had to hatch a lot of artemia every day and night. We had jars with artemia cultures everywhere. I gave a lot of my babies away and some died. We had an invasion of hydras that came with the artemia (sometimes there are hydra eggs attached to the shells of the artemia eggs and if you don�t buy de-capsulated eggs, or do it yourself, you could introduce them in your tank. They ate a lot of the babies in one of my tanks and it was nearly impossible to eradicate them. Some of the nudybranchs we found in Florida helped to eat them but they have a short life span. Sadly the same is true for the H. Zosterae, they live just over a year so the population has renewed itself and now some of our babies are having babies. Hopefully we will be able to keep them for many generations.
Check out my other articles and some fish pics in my blog: http://www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
I love Seahorses, I'm sure you have figured that by now. In the past I have kept several different types of horses and pipefish, I have even collected some of my own in the Caribbean!!! The one species I had not had and that I wanted was the Dwarf Seahorse, Hippocampus zosterae. So at the beginning of spring when we took the boys to Disney World, I though this is my chance to go a little bit further south and get myself some Dwarfs!!! All the way down there the boys where giddy about the rides they would ride, the food, the hotel and the beach� I was just as giddy about the Seahorses� We stayed a little over a week in Disney and finally the day had come to go finding my own H. zosterae. I had spoken with several people about collecting fish in Florida and I found out that all I needed was a fishing license and good luck. I was also told that you could find H. Zosterae in the Indian River all they way up to Cape Canaveral down to the keys. I spent several days going up and down the Indian River, we did not make it as far south as I wanted but we made it to Vero Beach. No Seahorses!!! Not even one� I found some pretty nudibranchs and some other things but no Seahorses� So I had to come home.
But then I found The Florida Collector. I ordered 20 Seahorses all for my own. I set them up in one 40-gallon Eclipse tank with 2 biowheels and I put the intake in a Hydrosponge so the horses would not get sucked up. The tank had been running for over a year and had served as a hospital/quarantine tank for my larger marine tanks. The problem with H. Zosterae, and this is the reason why I had not kept them before, is that they only eat live food and it must be really small, the Seahorses themselves are about 1 to 1 1/2 inches total lenght. Rachel (my wife) had made a point that I would have to feed the fish and she would not help with the whole artemia hatching, rinsing and feeding procedures until now. Since I am not at home most of the day she would have to take care of a big part of the feeding schedules. To be able to feed them brine shrimp and it be enough for them, you have to hatch at least 2 batches per day and feed them right away while the nauplii (baby shrimp) still has some of the yolk sack and the exoskeleton is soft.
After a few days of feeding them we noticed that the tank was too big for them. They would hitch to something near the bottom and the artemia would swim near the top missing the seahorses by over half the tank. So we moved them to 5-gallon tanks. We separated them by pairs or what we thought where pairs and we waited. They did really well� After a few weeks we noticed that one of the males was �dancing� with a smaller female. By now we could tell them apart by coloration, shape and size. About a week later the male seemed to have a bigger belly and about 2 weeks later we had babies. At first just 2 or 3 but by the next day we had about 25!!! Then some of the other males followed suit, and soon we had more seahorses than we knew what to do with.
The babies don�t eat for the first day or two since they have some yolk left. After that we had to hatch a lot of artemia every day and night. We had jars with artemia cultures everywhere. I gave a lot of my babies away and some died. We had an invasion of hydras that came with the artemia (sometimes there are hydra eggs attached to the shells of the artemia eggs and if you don�t buy de-capsulated eggs, or do it yourself, you could introduce them in your tank. They ate a lot of the babies in one of my tanks and it was nearly impossible to eradicate them. Some of the nudybranchs we found in Florida helped to eat them but they have a short life span. Sadly the same is true for the H. Zosterae, they live just over a year so the population has renewed itself and now some of our babies are having babies. Hopefully we will be able to keep them for many generations.
Check out my other articles and some fish pics in my blog: http://www.tropicalfishpages.blogspot.com
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