By Kevin M Yates
Once you have successfully bred your fish's and your fry are at the free swimming stage they will be able to feed for themselves. Many species can take brineshrimp as a first food but it is best to start with Infusoria as well.
The fry of egg-layers are initially fed on Infusoria, this is by enlarge an obsolete term, but is still used by fishkeepers to represent a variety of minute or microscopic animal and vegetable organisms, which develop in an infusion of decaying organic matter.
Infusoria cultures can be prepared quite simply; the spores are airborne so there is no need to obtain starter cultures. All you need is an open jar three quarters full of aquarium water, to which you add either a small amount of potato (lightly boiled may be of benefit), banana skin, dried lettuce leaves, or hay, allow this to stand for about a week, after which it will become cloudy with Infusoria.
When it is time to feed the fry just pour a little of this cloudy water into the aquarium, then top up with aquarium water again. If you have a few of these cultures on the go at once it will give you a constant supply of Infusoria.
Brine Shrimps are marine shrimps, which are also available in dried form; they can easily be cultivated from eggs available from some aquatic shops. They will be supplied in sealed airtight containers and it is imperative that they remain in a dry and cool place; otherwise, if they get damp they will fail to hatch.
Take a one litre plastic bottle and half fill it with tap water, the water should be kept at 75 degrees F (24 C), add to it one and a half teaspoons of salt (aquarium or sea salt preferably), then add a quarter of a teaspoon of the eggs.
You will then need to place a piece of airline into the bottle and attach the other end of the airline to an airpump. Run the airpump, which will circulate the eggs in the bottle, after about 36 hours the eggs will have hatched and the shells will float to the surface, at this point you can remove the airline.
Wait for a further 30 minutes and you will see the newly hatched Brineshrimp at the base of the bottle, place a plastic tube into the bottle and siphon the minute shrimps through clean dry linen, nylon, or paper towel. They can now be washed in fresh water and fed to the fish.
Microworms are a minute worm, also bought as a culture; you may be able to obtain a starter culture from another aquarist. Microworms feed on the surface of cereal-based foods, therefore you will need to mix up some oatmeal with a little water (porridge), be sure to only use water.
Let the mixture cool then spread a layer of it, about 1cm (0.4inch) thick, onto the base of a container or saucer, take a small spoonful of the culture and place it onto the porridge, put a lid or cover (which must have a few small air holes in it), over the container, and keep it in a warm place 70 - 75 degrees F (21 - 24C).
After a few days the worms will have multiplied and will be climbing around the sides of the container, you can wipe these off with a small brush and feed them directly to the fry. You will need to start fresh cultures after about five days, after that it starts to turn foul.
All you need to do then is make a fresh porridge mix, and place some of your old culture on to the top of your new porridge mix. If you use about three containers you will have a succession of cultures for continuous use.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Thursday, February 21, 2008
The Nitrogen Cycle and Your Aquarium
By Kevin M Yates
When fishes, plants, and food are introduced into the aquarium a process known as nitrification occurs, this is referred to as the nitrogen cycle. This is not unique to aquaria; nitrification will occur in any body of water, or soil, where bacterial action breaks down decaying organic matter and converts it into ammonia. Ammonia compounds are then oxidized into nitrite and nitrates.
These nitrifying bacteria can be termed as beneficial or friendly bacteria, without them aquarium inhabitants could not survive. The process begins with Heterotrophic bacteria consuming fish waste, decaying vegetation, and uneaten food, and converting them into ammonia.
Ammonia (NH3) is a colourless, pungent, suffocating gas, a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen, and is very soluble in water. The majority of waste produced by fishes is in the form of ammonia, most of which is secreted through the gills. The remainder excreted as faecal matter, is converted to ammonia by Heterotrophic bacteria.
Ammonia is extremely toxic to fishes and must be removed or broken down. Visual signs of fishes succumbing to this toxicity include:
Gasping at the surface
Cloudy eyes
Frayed fins
Listless behaviour
Increased mucous production
Possible internal and external bleeding (if extreme toxicity exists)
Because of the toxic effects of high levels of ammonia there maybe fatalities, even after ammonia levels are brought under control. Smaller fishes have a higher gill surface area relative to larger fishes; and are therefore more susceptible to ammonia toxicity.
Water changes are the best way to solve ammonia problems. You should do partial water changes over a few days, to bring levels down. Resin-based media or zeolites are available at aquatic shops and are very useful at removing various substances from freshwater aquariums, including ammonia.
Moving fishes to a safe tank will stop the absorption of ammonia immediately, and they can be returned to the main tank when ammonia levels return to zero. If you have a high pH level, you could try reducing it to nearer 7.0, as this will also reduce the ammonia toxicity.
pH is an important factor in controlling many chemical balances, of which ammonia and ammonium are included. pH is logarithmic, and this is the controlling factor over the presence of ammonia or ammonium.
Ammonium (NH4) is less toxic than ammonia, and is formed when ammonia reacts with acids, therefore, if ammonia is present in the aquarium, and the pH of the water is acidic, then ammonia will become ammonium.
As pH rises, so does the toxicity of ammonia, i.e. a pH increase from 7.0 to 8.0 would be a ten-fold increase in the hydroxyl ion, (and decrease in hydrogen concentration) and ultimately a ten-fold increase in ammonia toxicity.
It is therefore necessary to test for ammonia before significantly increasing pH. Ammonia testing will show a zero reading when the nitrogen cycle is working well, and the Nitrosomonas bacteria are consuming the ammonia and converting it into nitrite.
Nitrite (NO2) is also toxic to fishes if it is not removed or converted into nitrates during the nitrogen cycle. Levels above 1ppm need to be removed by carrying out substantial water changes. This should be done on a daily basis for a number of days, testing regularly, until the nitrite level has reduced to zero.
Moving fishes to a safe tank will stop the absorption of nitrites immediately. They can then be returned to your main tank when nitrite readings show zero. Symptoms of nitrite toxicity include:
Listlessness
Gasping at the surface
Blood and gills turning brown
Nitrite is also dependent on pH, and if pH drops below 6.5, when nitrite is present in the water, the nitrite will convert to nitrous acid. This too, is very toxic to fishes.
Nitrate (NO3) is the end product of the nitrogen cycle, and is relatively non-toxic; although in high concentrations can still be a problem. Nitrite is converted into nitrate by the bacteria Nitrobacter, and the presence of nitrates in a freshwater aquarium indicates that the nitrification process is working.
Some species are more tolerant than others to nitrate, but a sensible approach would be to keep levels below 50ppm (mg/l). Some of the symptoms of nitrate toxicity would be:
General poor health
Poor growth
Poor colouring
Less tolerance to disease
Nitrates are an essential food source for plants and algae, so if you encourage healthy plant growth in your aquarium, levels will be reduced. Otherwise, if tests show high levels, it would indicate a partial water change is necessary.
Regular partial water changes when carried out during maintenance will usually keep it under control anyway. Ammonia and Nitrite levels will tend to be at their highest in the first 4 to 6 weeks of establishing a new aquarium. This is usually known as new tank syndrome.
Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S) is an extremely poisonous gas that smells like rotten eggs, even in small concentrations it can cause a quick death. It is produced during the decay of organic matter that contains sulphur, and by the action of dilute acid on the sulphides (acid aquariums being at risk).
The usual cause in the aquarium is probably one of neglect, by not keeping the substrate clean of dirt and debris, thereby allowing the decay to build up. An early indication of this problem can be a sudden bloom of algae.
The poisonous gas affects fishes by binding the iron of the bloods haemoglobin, which blocks the absorption of oxygen; this causes symptoms, which include:
Respiratory problems
Gasping at surface
Unusual colouration of the gills
Regular aquarium maintenance, being sure to clean all debris from the substrate, will prevent the problem arising.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
When fishes, plants, and food are introduced into the aquarium a process known as nitrification occurs, this is referred to as the nitrogen cycle. This is not unique to aquaria; nitrification will occur in any body of water, or soil, where bacterial action breaks down decaying organic matter and converts it into ammonia. Ammonia compounds are then oxidized into nitrite and nitrates.
These nitrifying bacteria can be termed as beneficial or friendly bacteria, without them aquarium inhabitants could not survive. The process begins with Heterotrophic bacteria consuming fish waste, decaying vegetation, and uneaten food, and converting them into ammonia.
Ammonia (NH3) is a colourless, pungent, suffocating gas, a compound of nitrogen and hydrogen, and is very soluble in water. The majority of waste produced by fishes is in the form of ammonia, most of which is secreted through the gills. The remainder excreted as faecal matter, is converted to ammonia by Heterotrophic bacteria.
Ammonia is extremely toxic to fishes and must be removed or broken down. Visual signs of fishes succumbing to this toxicity include:
Gasping at the surface
Cloudy eyes
Frayed fins
Listless behaviour
Increased mucous production
Possible internal and external bleeding (if extreme toxicity exists)
Because of the toxic effects of high levels of ammonia there maybe fatalities, even after ammonia levels are brought under control. Smaller fishes have a higher gill surface area relative to larger fishes; and are therefore more susceptible to ammonia toxicity.
Water changes are the best way to solve ammonia problems. You should do partial water changes over a few days, to bring levels down. Resin-based media or zeolites are available at aquatic shops and are very useful at removing various substances from freshwater aquariums, including ammonia.
Moving fishes to a safe tank will stop the absorption of ammonia immediately, and they can be returned to the main tank when ammonia levels return to zero. If you have a high pH level, you could try reducing it to nearer 7.0, as this will also reduce the ammonia toxicity.
pH is an important factor in controlling many chemical balances, of which ammonia and ammonium are included. pH is logarithmic, and this is the controlling factor over the presence of ammonia or ammonium.
Ammonium (NH4) is less toxic than ammonia, and is formed when ammonia reacts with acids, therefore, if ammonia is present in the aquarium, and the pH of the water is acidic, then ammonia will become ammonium.
As pH rises, so does the toxicity of ammonia, i.e. a pH increase from 7.0 to 8.0 would be a ten-fold increase in the hydroxyl ion, (and decrease in hydrogen concentration) and ultimately a ten-fold increase in ammonia toxicity.
It is therefore necessary to test for ammonia before significantly increasing pH. Ammonia testing will show a zero reading when the nitrogen cycle is working well, and the Nitrosomonas bacteria are consuming the ammonia and converting it into nitrite.
Nitrite (NO2) is also toxic to fishes if it is not removed or converted into nitrates during the nitrogen cycle. Levels above 1ppm need to be removed by carrying out substantial water changes. This should be done on a daily basis for a number of days, testing regularly, until the nitrite level has reduced to zero.
Moving fishes to a safe tank will stop the absorption of nitrites immediately. They can then be returned to your main tank when nitrite readings show zero. Symptoms of nitrite toxicity include:
Listlessness
Gasping at the surface
Blood and gills turning brown
Nitrite is also dependent on pH, and if pH drops below 6.5, when nitrite is present in the water, the nitrite will convert to nitrous acid. This too, is very toxic to fishes.
Nitrate (NO3) is the end product of the nitrogen cycle, and is relatively non-toxic; although in high concentrations can still be a problem. Nitrite is converted into nitrate by the bacteria Nitrobacter, and the presence of nitrates in a freshwater aquarium indicates that the nitrification process is working.
Some species are more tolerant than others to nitrate, but a sensible approach would be to keep levels below 50ppm (mg/l). Some of the symptoms of nitrate toxicity would be:
General poor health
Poor growth
Poor colouring
Less tolerance to disease
Nitrates are an essential food source for plants and algae, so if you encourage healthy plant growth in your aquarium, levels will be reduced. Otherwise, if tests show high levels, it would indicate a partial water change is necessary.
Regular partial water changes when carried out during maintenance will usually keep it under control anyway. Ammonia and Nitrite levels will tend to be at their highest in the first 4 to 6 weeks of establishing a new aquarium. This is usually known as new tank syndrome.
Hydrogen Sulphide (H2S) is an extremely poisonous gas that smells like rotten eggs, even in small concentrations it can cause a quick death. It is produced during the decay of organic matter that contains sulphur, and by the action of dilute acid on the sulphides (acid aquariums being at risk).
The usual cause in the aquarium is probably one of neglect, by not keeping the substrate clean of dirt and debris, thereby allowing the decay to build up. An early indication of this problem can be a sudden bloom of algae.
The poisonous gas affects fishes by binding the iron of the bloods haemoglobin, which blocks the absorption of oxygen; this causes symptoms, which include:
Respiratory problems
Gasping at surface
Unusual colouration of the gills
Regular aquarium maintenance, being sure to clean all debris from the substrate, will prevent the problem arising.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Aquarium Equipment Explained - Water Test Kits
By Kevin M Yates
Although tap water is usually a suitable substitute for a fish's natural aquatic needs, it does require certain measures to taken before it can be used in the aquarium. Water from our mains supplies have been treated in such a way that makes it safe for humans to drink.
Chlorine is used in our water systems, which kills off bacteria and disinfects the water. There can also be metal contamination in tap water due to it transportation to homes through pipes-lines, copper for instance.
Chemicals added to our water supplies are potentially lethal to fishes. These chemicals can attack gills and the mucus membrane that covers and protects the fish's body, making them vulnerable to bacterial and fungal infection. Heavy metals can also be found in our tap water, such as copper, lead, zinc, which are toxic to all tropical fishes.
It is therefore necessary to treat tap water before it goes into the aquarium. There are a number of manufacturers who make products that dechlorinate tap water, they usually contain other additives that also condition the water and coat the fishes with a protective barrier of Aloe Vera.
Regular monitoring of your aquarium water is essential. It is possible for harmful pollutants that cannot be seen, to enter your aquarium water without your knowledge. These pollutants can pose a great danger to your fishes, therefore the only way to be sure of its condition is to do regular water tests.
There are many tests that will indicate your waters condition and its properties; here are the more important ones.
Ammonia/Ammonium Test:
Ammonia is very soluble in water; it is excreted by all fishes, and is extremely poisonous to them. A by-product of ammonia is ammonium, which less toxic, it is formed by the acceptance of a proton by an ammonia molecule, and is present at lower pH levels.
Ammonia will become more toxic at higher pH levels, and to a lesser degree on the temperature. This test gives an early warning of a failing filtration system, probably due to overstocking of fishes, or over feeding. Ammonia tests actually measure total ammonia; this is a combination of ammonia and ammonium.
To properly determine the amount of toxic ammonia that may be present in your water, you will need to know its pH, and temperature to do the test. You can then compare the result of your test against the chart supplied with the test kit to determine if ammonia is present, and to what degree, the ideal result should be zero.
Nitrite Test:
Ammonia is broken down and converted into Nitrite by nitrifying bacteria, (nitrosomonas bacteria), although less poisonous than ammonia, nitrite is still very dangerous to your fishes. A nitrite presence usually means a bacterially immature or inefficient filtration system, possibly overstocking and/or feeding. This test will indicate what level of nitrite, if any is present. Levels above 1.0mg/L (ppm) for fresh water aquariums are considered unsafe; ideally, as with ammonia, readings should be zero.
Nitrate Test:
Nitrite is broken down and converted into Nitrate, this is the end product of the nitrogen cycle, and is used as a food source by plants and algae. Nitrate is relatively non-toxic, but if high readings are observed from your test result, it is indicative that a partial water change is necessary.
pH test:
As various fish species originate from different waters of the world, so the pH of those waters differ; it is therefore necessary to mimic those conditions the best we can. A pH test will indicate your waters acidity or alkalinity.
Sudden changes of pH should be avoided; this causes stress to fishes, which lowers their resistance to disease, for this reason it is therefore very important that any pH adjustments be made gradually over a period of time.
Water Hardness Tests:
Most species of fish do not like hard alkaline water; some species however do live in such conditions and need hard alkaline water to survive. Under the wrong conditions fish species of any given type will fail to breed, be poorly coloured, and have a low resistance to disease. It is therefore necessary to determine what type of water you have in your aquarium for the sake of your fish's survival.
There are two types of hardness test, one to confirm its GH (General Hardness), and is a measure of all the dissolved salts in the water, these salts are principally composed of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg). GH can also be termed as total hardness.
The other test is for Carbonate Hardness (KH) or temporary hardness, and is commonly referred to as alkalinity. It is a measurement of the capacity for water to neutralize an acid, and is known as the buffering capacity. Therefore water hardness is closely linked to pH.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Although tap water is usually a suitable substitute for a fish's natural aquatic needs, it does require certain measures to taken before it can be used in the aquarium. Water from our mains supplies have been treated in such a way that makes it safe for humans to drink.
Chlorine is used in our water systems, which kills off bacteria and disinfects the water. There can also be metal contamination in tap water due to it transportation to homes through pipes-lines, copper for instance.
Chemicals added to our water supplies are potentially lethal to fishes. These chemicals can attack gills and the mucus membrane that covers and protects the fish's body, making them vulnerable to bacterial and fungal infection. Heavy metals can also be found in our tap water, such as copper, lead, zinc, which are toxic to all tropical fishes.
It is therefore necessary to treat tap water before it goes into the aquarium. There are a number of manufacturers who make products that dechlorinate tap water, they usually contain other additives that also condition the water and coat the fishes with a protective barrier of Aloe Vera.
Regular monitoring of your aquarium water is essential. It is possible for harmful pollutants that cannot be seen, to enter your aquarium water without your knowledge. These pollutants can pose a great danger to your fishes, therefore the only way to be sure of its condition is to do regular water tests.
There are many tests that will indicate your waters condition and its properties; here are the more important ones.
Ammonia/Ammonium Test:
Ammonia is very soluble in water; it is excreted by all fishes, and is extremely poisonous to them. A by-product of ammonia is ammonium, which less toxic, it is formed by the acceptance of a proton by an ammonia molecule, and is present at lower pH levels.
Ammonia will become more toxic at higher pH levels, and to a lesser degree on the temperature. This test gives an early warning of a failing filtration system, probably due to overstocking of fishes, or over feeding. Ammonia tests actually measure total ammonia; this is a combination of ammonia and ammonium.
To properly determine the amount of toxic ammonia that may be present in your water, you will need to know its pH, and temperature to do the test. You can then compare the result of your test against the chart supplied with the test kit to determine if ammonia is present, and to what degree, the ideal result should be zero.
Nitrite Test:
Ammonia is broken down and converted into Nitrite by nitrifying bacteria, (nitrosomonas bacteria), although less poisonous than ammonia, nitrite is still very dangerous to your fishes. A nitrite presence usually means a bacterially immature or inefficient filtration system, possibly overstocking and/or feeding. This test will indicate what level of nitrite, if any is present. Levels above 1.0mg/L (ppm) for fresh water aquariums are considered unsafe; ideally, as with ammonia, readings should be zero.
Nitrate Test:
Nitrite is broken down and converted into Nitrate, this is the end product of the nitrogen cycle, and is used as a food source by plants and algae. Nitrate is relatively non-toxic, but if high readings are observed from your test result, it is indicative that a partial water change is necessary.
pH test:
As various fish species originate from different waters of the world, so the pH of those waters differ; it is therefore necessary to mimic those conditions the best we can. A pH test will indicate your waters acidity or alkalinity.
Sudden changes of pH should be avoided; this causes stress to fishes, which lowers their resistance to disease, for this reason it is therefore very important that any pH adjustments be made gradually over a period of time.
Water Hardness Tests:
Most species of fish do not like hard alkaline water; some species however do live in such conditions and need hard alkaline water to survive. Under the wrong conditions fish species of any given type will fail to breed, be poorly coloured, and have a low resistance to disease. It is therefore necessary to determine what type of water you have in your aquarium for the sake of your fish's survival.
There are two types of hardness test, one to confirm its GH (General Hardness), and is a measure of all the dissolved salts in the water, these salts are principally composed of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg). GH can also be termed as total hardness.
The other test is for Carbonate Hardness (KH) or temporary hardness, and is commonly referred to as alkalinity. It is a measurement of the capacity for water to neutralize an acid, and is known as the buffering capacity. Therefore water hardness is closely linked to pH.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Sunday, February 17, 2008
UV Sterilizers for Aquarium Maintenance
By Richard Gilliland
If you have a home aquarium, chances are you already have several filtration units taking care of the water. A UV sterilizer is a good addition to an aquarium, although it should be the last stage of the filtration process. It's important that aquarium water passes through the mechanical filter before moving through the UV unit. The mechanical or canister filter removes solids so that any water that passes through the UV unit afterwards is cleaned with optimal results.
UV sterilizers continue to work well as long as the bulb wattage is sufficient and the bulb isn't too old. The efficiency of the device also depends on the cleanliness of the quartz sleeve and the flow rate of the unit.
The Bulb
As time goes by UV the bulb will start to lose its effectiveness, which is why you should replace it every 6 months. You can purchase bulbs between 8 watts and 130 watts - a higher wattage does a better job at cleaning the water. Devices with a lower wattage bulb require a lower flow rate to work well.
Flow Rate
The flow rate is also an important factor to consider - a slower flow rate is more effective at killing parasites, in addition to algae and bacteria. The flow rate is measured in either gallons per hour or liters per hour. A device with a 15-watt bulb has no problem controlling algae and bacteria at a 120 gph flow, but it won't kill parasites unless the flow rate drops to 75 gph.
Clean the Quartz
The quartz sleeve is located where the UV bulb fits into the device. A lot of people forget about this part of the UV sterilizer and fail to give it a good cleaning every once in a while. Cleaning removes buildup and ensures that the UV sterilizer continues to work at top capacity. More expensive sterilizers are designed with a wiper handle positioned outside of the device for fast and easy cleaning of the sleeve, without having to take everything apart.
Luckily, it's easy to find UV sterilizers these days, in local stores and online. These devices make a wonderful addition to any aquarium, but they come with a hefty price tag, especially when you factor in the cost of replacement bulbs.
Saltwater aquarium enthusiasts are more likely to purchase UV sterilizers because they improve the quality of the water and offer another layer of protection for expensive saltwater fish.
Although a UV sterilizer is not a necessity, many aquarium hobbyists do find that this device is effective at maintaining clean water and keeping fish and other aquatic life healthy and happy. It all comes down to personal choice and what works best for your aquarium. aquarium UV sterilizer, UV sterilizer
If you have a home aquarium, chances are you already have several filtration units taking care of the water. A UV sterilizer is a good addition to an aquarium, although it should be the last stage of the filtration process. It's important that aquarium water passes through the mechanical filter before moving through the UV unit. The mechanical or canister filter removes solids so that any water that passes through the UV unit afterwards is cleaned with optimal results.
UV sterilizers continue to work well as long as the bulb wattage is sufficient and the bulb isn't too old. The efficiency of the device also depends on the cleanliness of the quartz sleeve and the flow rate of the unit.
The Bulb
As time goes by UV the bulb will start to lose its effectiveness, which is why you should replace it every 6 months. You can purchase bulbs between 8 watts and 130 watts - a higher wattage does a better job at cleaning the water. Devices with a lower wattage bulb require a lower flow rate to work well.
Flow Rate
The flow rate is also an important factor to consider - a slower flow rate is more effective at killing parasites, in addition to algae and bacteria. The flow rate is measured in either gallons per hour or liters per hour. A device with a 15-watt bulb has no problem controlling algae and bacteria at a 120 gph flow, but it won't kill parasites unless the flow rate drops to 75 gph.
Clean the Quartz
The quartz sleeve is located where the UV bulb fits into the device. A lot of people forget about this part of the UV sterilizer and fail to give it a good cleaning every once in a while. Cleaning removes buildup and ensures that the UV sterilizer continues to work at top capacity. More expensive sterilizers are designed with a wiper handle positioned outside of the device for fast and easy cleaning of the sleeve, without having to take everything apart.
Luckily, it's easy to find UV sterilizers these days, in local stores and online. These devices make a wonderful addition to any aquarium, but they come with a hefty price tag, especially when you factor in the cost of replacement bulbs.
Saltwater aquarium enthusiasts are more likely to purchase UV sterilizers because they improve the quality of the water and offer another layer of protection for expensive saltwater fish.
Although a UV sterilizer is not a necessity, many aquarium hobbyists do find that this device is effective at maintaining clean water and keeping fish and other aquatic life healthy and happy. It all comes down to personal choice and what works best for your aquarium. aquarium UV sterilizer, UV sterilizer
Friday, February 15, 2008
Purchasing Healthy Fish
By Richard Gilliland
Fortunately, there are a few things you can look out for before making a purchase:
Fins shouldn't be drooping, especially the dorsal fin. A collapsed fin is a bad sign for most fish, although for some species this tip doesn't apply. Puffers normally curl their tail against their body, while butterfly fish have erect dorsal fins only when they are afraid.
In addition, fins need to be intact. Look for nipped, torn, or ripped fins. A few nips may not pose a problem if the fish appears to be behaving properly, but it's a sign to watch out for.
Watch the fish as they swim and mingle with the other specimens in the tank. For example, smaller fish should move out of the way when a dominant fish swims by, as this indicates the fish is feeling normal. A sick fish may allow a dominant fish to intimidate it because it's too ill to move out of the way.
Examine the fish's respiration, comparing the movement of the gills to the other fish. It's normal for some fish to breathe faster than others, but generally fish tend to move their gills at the same rate as those around them in a tank. Quick gill movement is a bad indication because it means the fish is probably stressed.
Other indicators of stress include dark patches and discoloration. If you purchase a book on fish before shopping, it will be easier to determine what coloration is normal for a particular fish, and what's out of the ordinary.
As the fish swim back and forth, search for bumps and raised growths, small white crystals on the fins, or black dots. Fish with these characteristics have parasite infestations. Growths on the fins that resemble cauliflower are an indication of a viral infection and stress. In general, if you notice several fish in one store with signs of stress and disease, don't buy any fish from that location.
And remember, fish that bully in the fish store will most likely do the same thing at home, so avoid purchasing fish that demonstrate aggressive behavior.
For saltwater aquariums in particular, avoid buying Undulated or Queen Triggers, Sohal Tangs, or Passer Angels. Avoid saltwater fish that grow bigger than six to eight inches, unless you're looking to add a slow-moving fish to your aquarium.
Take your time when analyzing the fish so you have time to look beyond the beautiful colors. It's easy to miss common indicators of problems when you have been mesmerized by a gorgeous fish swimming your way. Take a good look at the fish's skin and fins, and watch its movements over a period of time. reef aquariums, saltwater supplies
Fortunately, there are a few things you can look out for before making a purchase:
Fins shouldn't be drooping, especially the dorsal fin. A collapsed fin is a bad sign for most fish, although for some species this tip doesn't apply. Puffers normally curl their tail against their body, while butterfly fish have erect dorsal fins only when they are afraid.
In addition, fins need to be intact. Look for nipped, torn, or ripped fins. A few nips may not pose a problem if the fish appears to be behaving properly, but it's a sign to watch out for.
Watch the fish as they swim and mingle with the other specimens in the tank. For example, smaller fish should move out of the way when a dominant fish swims by, as this indicates the fish is feeling normal. A sick fish may allow a dominant fish to intimidate it because it's too ill to move out of the way.
Examine the fish's respiration, comparing the movement of the gills to the other fish. It's normal for some fish to breathe faster than others, but generally fish tend to move their gills at the same rate as those around them in a tank. Quick gill movement is a bad indication because it means the fish is probably stressed.
Other indicators of stress include dark patches and discoloration. If you purchase a book on fish before shopping, it will be easier to determine what coloration is normal for a particular fish, and what's out of the ordinary.
As the fish swim back and forth, search for bumps and raised growths, small white crystals on the fins, or black dots. Fish with these characteristics have parasite infestations. Growths on the fins that resemble cauliflower are an indication of a viral infection and stress. In general, if you notice several fish in one store with signs of stress and disease, don't buy any fish from that location.
And remember, fish that bully in the fish store will most likely do the same thing at home, so avoid purchasing fish that demonstrate aggressive behavior.
For saltwater aquariums in particular, avoid buying Undulated or Queen Triggers, Sohal Tangs, or Passer Angels. Avoid saltwater fish that grow bigger than six to eight inches, unless you're looking to add a slow-moving fish to your aquarium.
Take your time when analyzing the fish so you have time to look beyond the beautiful colors. It's easy to miss common indicators of problems when you have been mesmerized by a gorgeous fish swimming your way. Take a good look at the fish's skin and fins, and watch its movements over a period of time. reef aquariums, saltwater supplies
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Aquarium Equipment Explained - Heat, Light & Decor
By Kevin M Yates
In order to keep tropical fishes alive and in their optimum condition, they need to be accommodated in an environment that mimics their natural temperature and surroundings. The correct temperature is usually achieved with a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater.
The optimum temperature for individual freshwater species varies; however, a suitable temperature range common to most tropical fishes would be between 72 and 80 degrees F (22 to 27 degrees C). Fluctuations in temperature are hazardous, and will tend to lead to a lower resistance to disease; it is therefore necessary to keep the temperature stable in a tropical aquarium.
It is a simple matter to install a thermostatically controlled heater, and once set, it will keep your water at a stable temperature. Obviously, to set this up, and to keep a regular check, you will need a good quality aquarium thermometer.
Set the heater to approximately 76F (25C). Place the heater on the rear glass of the aquarium at an angle of about 45 degrees, close to, but not touching the gravel. It should be placed near a filter outlet, or where there is water movement, so that heat can be distributed around the tank.
Do not plug an aquarium heater into the power socket until it is submerged in water, irreparable damage could be caused. Be sure never to touch an aquarium heater until is unplugged and had sufficient time to cool down. These things are hot enough to severely burn when switched on and not in water.
Heaters are rated in watts, and your choice will depend on the amount of water in your aquarium. As a rule of thumb, simply multiply your aquarium capacity (in gallons) by 7.5, this will give you the approximate wattage required, e.g. 40 gallons x 7.5 = 300 watts.
Fluorescent light tubes are used in the vast majority of aquariums, and although one tube looks much like another, there is actually a significant difference in performance between the various products available. Broadly speaking there are two categories of tube according to their light intensity.
Standard intensity tubes are suitable for freshwater aquariums, whilst high intensity tubes are predominantly used for marine aquariums where more demanding light requirements are necessary, although they can also be used in freshwater aquariums.
The mix of wavelengths, known as the spectrum, varies considerably between products, for instance, a standard tube could predominantly use yellow-green of the spectrum to give an overall neutral white light. On the other hand, there are tubes that emit more blue and red, ideal for photosynthesis in a planted aquarium.
Another specialised example are the blue tubes, as their name suggests they give off a blue light by boosting the blue of the spectrum, this can simulate nocturnal light, they are generally used in the marine aquarium to fill in the holes of the spectrum produced by other lights.
Getting the light right is often overlooked by many fishkeepers, although how much light, and the quality of light is a matter for much speculation, you will find there is a lot of conflicting advice around. What everyone agrees though is that for planted aquariums the correct spectrum of light is essential to encourage vigorous photosynthesis.
Fish only aquaria are the easiest to light, the quality and intensity of light is not vital to their survival, although the majority of fishes are diurnal, therefore will benefit from the day-night routine.
Fluorescent tubes are rated on their length and wattage, 25watts = 30inch tube (76cm), 30watts = 36inch tube (92cm), and so on. As a rough rule of thumb, to calculate the tube or tubes you require, multiply your aquarium capacity (in gallons) by 1.5, this will give the approximate wattage required, e.g. 40 gallons x 1.5 = 60 watts = 2 x 30 watt tubes.
To operate your fluorescent tube, you will need a control unit; these are rated specifically to tube sizes, they are remote from the tank and incorporate the motor and the switch. As with all light bulbs, these tubes will dim over time, it is therefore necessary to change them at regular intervals, approximately 9 months or so.
As far as decorating your aquarium is concerned it's down to personal choice, although you will have a better effect if you keep it looking natural. If you're using rocks in your decor, be sure to use inert materials, such as sandstone or slate, and also bear in mind the weight of any large rockwork you design.
If you use a lot of rocks be sure the structure is stable, you could consider gluing it together with aquarium sealant, this would avoid it toppling over and injuring a fish or damaging the aquarium. These structures are useful as they give shelter to the shy and more nervous fishes of the community.
There are certain types of wood available to use in your aquarium. Bogwood and Mopani wood, these woods are quite attractive, especially in planted aquaria, but you must remember to soak Bogwood for at least a week before putting it into your tank, this will leach out the dye, although you can never get rid of it all together. The water will have a subtle brown tinge to it, which I find quite warm and effective.
Mopani wood, on the other hand, doesn't have this effect; it is a harder wood, (an iron wood of Southern Africa) therefore it will not rot as quickly, and it doesn't leach out colour the same as Bogwood. The use of these materials in your tank will naturally make the water more acidic over time, due to the slow decomposition of the wood.
You could consider using film decor, this sticks onto the rear of the aquarium, it completely covers the glass at the back of the tank, and there are various designs that simulate vegetation, rockscapes, etc. It is bought by length, off the roll, and it does have a pleasing effect, especially if you don't have much decor in the aquarium.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
In order to keep tropical fishes alive and in their optimum condition, they need to be accommodated in an environment that mimics their natural temperature and surroundings. The correct temperature is usually achieved with a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater.
The optimum temperature for individual freshwater species varies; however, a suitable temperature range common to most tropical fishes would be between 72 and 80 degrees F (22 to 27 degrees C). Fluctuations in temperature are hazardous, and will tend to lead to a lower resistance to disease; it is therefore necessary to keep the temperature stable in a tropical aquarium.
It is a simple matter to install a thermostatically controlled heater, and once set, it will keep your water at a stable temperature. Obviously, to set this up, and to keep a regular check, you will need a good quality aquarium thermometer.
Set the heater to approximately 76F (25C). Place the heater on the rear glass of the aquarium at an angle of about 45 degrees, close to, but not touching the gravel. It should be placed near a filter outlet, or where there is water movement, so that heat can be distributed around the tank.
Do not plug an aquarium heater into the power socket until it is submerged in water, irreparable damage could be caused. Be sure never to touch an aquarium heater until is unplugged and had sufficient time to cool down. These things are hot enough to severely burn when switched on and not in water.
Heaters are rated in watts, and your choice will depend on the amount of water in your aquarium. As a rule of thumb, simply multiply your aquarium capacity (in gallons) by 7.5, this will give you the approximate wattage required, e.g. 40 gallons x 7.5 = 300 watts.
Fluorescent light tubes are used in the vast majority of aquariums, and although one tube looks much like another, there is actually a significant difference in performance between the various products available. Broadly speaking there are two categories of tube according to their light intensity.
Standard intensity tubes are suitable for freshwater aquariums, whilst high intensity tubes are predominantly used for marine aquariums where more demanding light requirements are necessary, although they can also be used in freshwater aquariums.
The mix of wavelengths, known as the spectrum, varies considerably between products, for instance, a standard tube could predominantly use yellow-green of the spectrum to give an overall neutral white light. On the other hand, there are tubes that emit more blue and red, ideal for photosynthesis in a planted aquarium.
Another specialised example are the blue tubes, as their name suggests they give off a blue light by boosting the blue of the spectrum, this can simulate nocturnal light, they are generally used in the marine aquarium to fill in the holes of the spectrum produced by other lights.
Getting the light right is often overlooked by many fishkeepers, although how much light, and the quality of light is a matter for much speculation, you will find there is a lot of conflicting advice around. What everyone agrees though is that for planted aquariums the correct spectrum of light is essential to encourage vigorous photosynthesis.
Fish only aquaria are the easiest to light, the quality and intensity of light is not vital to their survival, although the majority of fishes are diurnal, therefore will benefit from the day-night routine.
Fluorescent tubes are rated on their length and wattage, 25watts = 30inch tube (76cm), 30watts = 36inch tube (92cm), and so on. As a rough rule of thumb, to calculate the tube or tubes you require, multiply your aquarium capacity (in gallons) by 1.5, this will give the approximate wattage required, e.g. 40 gallons x 1.5 = 60 watts = 2 x 30 watt tubes.
To operate your fluorescent tube, you will need a control unit; these are rated specifically to tube sizes, they are remote from the tank and incorporate the motor and the switch. As with all light bulbs, these tubes will dim over time, it is therefore necessary to change them at regular intervals, approximately 9 months or so.
As far as decorating your aquarium is concerned it's down to personal choice, although you will have a better effect if you keep it looking natural. If you're using rocks in your decor, be sure to use inert materials, such as sandstone or slate, and also bear in mind the weight of any large rockwork you design.
If you use a lot of rocks be sure the structure is stable, you could consider gluing it together with aquarium sealant, this would avoid it toppling over and injuring a fish or damaging the aquarium. These structures are useful as they give shelter to the shy and more nervous fishes of the community.
There are certain types of wood available to use in your aquarium. Bogwood and Mopani wood, these woods are quite attractive, especially in planted aquaria, but you must remember to soak Bogwood for at least a week before putting it into your tank, this will leach out the dye, although you can never get rid of it all together. The water will have a subtle brown tinge to it, which I find quite warm and effective.
Mopani wood, on the other hand, doesn't have this effect; it is a harder wood, (an iron wood of Southern Africa) therefore it will not rot as quickly, and it doesn't leach out colour the same as Bogwood. The use of these materials in your tank will naturally make the water more acidic over time, due to the slow decomposition of the wood.
You could consider using film decor, this sticks onto the rear of the aquarium, it completely covers the glass at the back of the tank, and there are various designs that simulate vegetation, rockscapes, etc. It is bought by length, off the roll, and it does have a pleasing effect, especially if you don't have much decor in the aquarium.
For more information about freshwater tropical fishkeeping please visit my site at http://www.freshwatertropicalfishkeeping.com for 30 years or more of fishkeeping experience. Or watch out for more fishkeeping articles from me, Kevin M. Yates at FWTFK
Monday, February 11, 2008
Why Betta Fish Make Great Pets
By Isaac Wilkins
A pet can go a long way towards improving the quality of your life. Pet ownership has been proven to relieve boredom and stress, decrease blood pressure, improve mood, and provide a purpose in life. Human beings are social animals and by their nature enjoy having something to care for.
Unfortunately, our modern life doesn't always make keeping a traditional pet easy. Dogs and cats are great but there's a lot that goes with them. They need to be exercised, cleaned up after daily, take up a fair amount of space, and eat a lot of food. A great lower-maintenance pet choice is a reptile or fish.
The problem with reptiles is that they just aren't much fun. For the most part they lie around and don't really interact with you at all. They also usually require expensive heating components and can smell bad if not taken care of frequently.
Fish combine the low maintenance of reptiles but can add so much more to your life. They're bright, colorful, and are moving around all of the time. A beautiful fish can be like a permanent flower in your home.
Even with the ease of fish many require big, complicated tank set-ups. That's one of the great things about the Betta, or Siamese Fighting Fish. In addition to being beautiful, bettas are fairly hardy fish that don't need a large space or water flow.
Some great features about the betta are:
- They come in a variety of vibrant colors and fin shapes. They are a beautiful fish sure to captivate your attention.
- They survive well in captivity. With proper care a betta will be just fine. Some fish are very difficult to keep healthy, but not the betta.
- Bettas don't need nearly as much space as other fish. Since they're comfortable in stagnant water, a small tank with a bit of airflow will be fine for them. I do recommend a small tank over the tiny bowl they come in so you don't have to change their water daily, but the tank can still be a lot smaller than what other fish need.
- They're amazingly friendly and animated. Bettas will soon learn to recognize their handler and "dance" around when they see you. They're happy to follow your finger around and play games for you.
When you look at the small cost of the fish, food, and set-up along with the bright colors, ease of care, and great interaction they make the perfect first pet for children. Kids love the pretty, animated betta fish and can learn responsibility while caring for them.
Isaac Wilkins has a variety of interests including pets, athletics, business, and writing. In particular he enjoys fish tanks and bettas. For more great betta information check out his site http://bettacare.blogspot.com today!
A pet can go a long way towards improving the quality of your life. Pet ownership has been proven to relieve boredom and stress, decrease blood pressure, improve mood, and provide a purpose in life. Human beings are social animals and by their nature enjoy having something to care for.
Unfortunately, our modern life doesn't always make keeping a traditional pet easy. Dogs and cats are great but there's a lot that goes with them. They need to be exercised, cleaned up after daily, take up a fair amount of space, and eat a lot of food. A great lower-maintenance pet choice is a reptile or fish.
The problem with reptiles is that they just aren't much fun. For the most part they lie around and don't really interact with you at all. They also usually require expensive heating components and can smell bad if not taken care of frequently.
Fish combine the low maintenance of reptiles but can add so much more to your life. They're bright, colorful, and are moving around all of the time. A beautiful fish can be like a permanent flower in your home.
Even with the ease of fish many require big, complicated tank set-ups. That's one of the great things about the Betta, or Siamese Fighting Fish. In addition to being beautiful, bettas are fairly hardy fish that don't need a large space or water flow.
Some great features about the betta are:
- They come in a variety of vibrant colors and fin shapes. They are a beautiful fish sure to captivate your attention.
- They survive well in captivity. With proper care a betta will be just fine. Some fish are very difficult to keep healthy, but not the betta.
- Bettas don't need nearly as much space as other fish. Since they're comfortable in stagnant water, a small tank with a bit of airflow will be fine for them. I do recommend a small tank over the tiny bowl they come in so you don't have to change their water daily, but the tank can still be a lot smaller than what other fish need.
- They're amazingly friendly and animated. Bettas will soon learn to recognize their handler and "dance" around when they see you. They're happy to follow your finger around and play games for you.
When you look at the small cost of the fish, food, and set-up along with the bright colors, ease of care, and great interaction they make the perfect first pet for children. Kids love the pretty, animated betta fish and can learn responsibility while caring for them.
Isaac Wilkins has a variety of interests including pets, athletics, business, and writing. In particular he enjoys fish tanks and bettas. For more great betta information check out his site http://bettacare.blogspot.com today!
Saturday, February 9, 2008
Energy Efficient Pond Heaters - For Your Fish, The Environment And Your Wallet
By Kirk Rogers
Energy efficiency is something of a buzz word at the moment, particularly with the growing concern in scientific and academic circles around global warming and the irreversible changes occurring to the world in which we live. For many people, global warming might seem like something that is too distant, and something that one single person can have very little impact upon in their daily lives. However, few people realise that if we all adopt the attitude of making some minor changes in our lives, we can all save the planet, whilst saving ourselves money.
Pond heaters are no exception to this rule. Whatever the size and nature of your pond, it is often important to ensure you have adequate heating in place to protect your pond life and prevent your pond from freezing through in the winter and early spring, but many people feel upset about the potential cost implications of this necessary part of pond ownership. Let's face it, if you've got a pond heater you're going to increase your energy costs on a monthly basis. Yet it need not be as clear cut as that - there are ways in which you can make sure you save money on your heater without sacrificing the wellbeing of your pond.
If your pond needs to be heated for the benefit of your pond life, make sure you have a contingency source of heat in the event of a mechanical failure with your main unit. Too many people neglect to think about the potential for problems with their pond heater, particularly during the colder winter months, and investing now in an energy efficient unit as a backup may be a wise move for anyone who cares about the health and wellbeing of his pond.
More and more pond owners nationwide are falling for the benefits of energy efficient pond heaters, as their main source of heat or alternatively as a back up source in the event of an emergency situation. One of the best things about energy efficient heating is that it proactively saves you money, leaving you better off at the end of each billing cycle. As compared to standard heating units, and the energy they consume, the greater the efficiency, the less energy your backup unit will require. Ultimately that means that you could be saving a significant amount on your energy bill on an ongoing basis, whilst also doing your bit for the environment.
On a grander scale, energy efficient pond heaters as the name would imply require less energy to power them along, which means less electricity to be produced by polluting power stations, which is generally a good thing for the environment. At the same time, you'll directly feel the benefits on a reduced energy bill every month, creating an effective win/win situation. On that basis, it seems crazy not make the investment in energy efficient pond heating units sooner rather than later, with a view to helping your fish, the environment and your wallet.
Kirk rogers: a thermodynamics engineer with 25 years experience, designing and developing heating systems. Heating Your Pond , Pond Calculators and Pond Heaters
Energy efficiency is something of a buzz word at the moment, particularly with the growing concern in scientific and academic circles around global warming and the irreversible changes occurring to the world in which we live. For many people, global warming might seem like something that is too distant, and something that one single person can have very little impact upon in their daily lives. However, few people realise that if we all adopt the attitude of making some minor changes in our lives, we can all save the planet, whilst saving ourselves money.
Pond heaters are no exception to this rule. Whatever the size and nature of your pond, it is often important to ensure you have adequate heating in place to protect your pond life and prevent your pond from freezing through in the winter and early spring, but many people feel upset about the potential cost implications of this necessary part of pond ownership. Let's face it, if you've got a pond heater you're going to increase your energy costs on a monthly basis. Yet it need not be as clear cut as that - there are ways in which you can make sure you save money on your heater without sacrificing the wellbeing of your pond.
If your pond needs to be heated for the benefit of your pond life, make sure you have a contingency source of heat in the event of a mechanical failure with your main unit. Too many people neglect to think about the potential for problems with their pond heater, particularly during the colder winter months, and investing now in an energy efficient unit as a backup may be a wise move for anyone who cares about the health and wellbeing of his pond.
More and more pond owners nationwide are falling for the benefits of energy efficient pond heaters, as their main source of heat or alternatively as a back up source in the event of an emergency situation. One of the best things about energy efficient heating is that it proactively saves you money, leaving you better off at the end of each billing cycle. As compared to standard heating units, and the energy they consume, the greater the efficiency, the less energy your backup unit will require. Ultimately that means that you could be saving a significant amount on your energy bill on an ongoing basis, whilst also doing your bit for the environment.
On a grander scale, energy efficient pond heaters as the name would imply require less energy to power them along, which means less electricity to be produced by polluting power stations, which is generally a good thing for the environment. At the same time, you'll directly feel the benefits on a reduced energy bill every month, creating an effective win/win situation. On that basis, it seems crazy not make the investment in energy efficient pond heating units sooner rather than later, with a view to helping your fish, the environment and your wallet.
Kirk rogers: a thermodynamics engineer with 25 years experience, designing and developing heating systems. Heating Your Pond , Pond Calculators and Pond Heaters
Thursday, February 7, 2008
Nano Reef Aquarium
By RC Moore
There is a new growing popularity in the reef keeping hobby called Nano Reefs. As the name implies, a nano reef is a reef aquarium on a small scale; 2.5 to 29 gallons. The price of a nano reef is also on a small scale, from the tank itself, the lighting, and it takes less live rock and corals to make a very dramatic reef display.
It was often thought that the bigger the aquarium the easier it would be to keep the water parameters stable. You could not keep corals alive without a massive trickle filter, large efficient protein skimmer, and powerful metal halide lighting lights. The bigger the aquarium the more gadgets you could add to make the water quality pristine, from ozone generators, redox meters, ph controllers, and calcium reactors. You had to be a marine biologist and a chemist to maintain a coral reef aquarium. The nano reef aquarium would seem to go against all these principles. Can we really keep corals alive in a 10 gallon aquarium with no sump filter or a protein skimmer?
What has been learned through the years more than anything is, most of the biological filtration occurs in the live rock and live sand. Lighting has also played a role in enabling the reef aquarium to become smaller with the advent of power compact fluorescent and the smaller HQI metal halide lamps. Having invertebrates that sift through and clean the live sand and live rocks ads to the ecological balance of the tank. Most of the trace elements are replaced through a strict regiments of 5% weekly water changes. There is yet to be a salt water mix that has adequate calcium and strontium levels for good coral growth and these elements should be maintained separately.
The best products to maintain calcium, strontium and other trace elements are made from aragonite, such as AragaMilk from CaribSea. So what is aragonite? Aragonite is fossilized coralline algae that has extracted minerals from the ocean to grow. Grinding aragonite into a fine powder and adding water creates a milky substance that precipitates quickly adding these minerals to the water naturally. Add a few drops to top off water to maintain calcium levels at 450 ppm. You will be amazed at the growth rate of SPS corals. Yes I did say SPS corals that can be easily maintained in a nano reef aquarium.
Fish For The Nano Reef Aquarium
Fish are a great addition to a nano reef, but you must take extra care of you nano. You will have to be sure to keep up with your water changes, because a small body of water can collect nitrates quickly. The following fish are nano reef safe: anthius, true and false percula, banggai cardinals, pajama cardinals, royal grammas, fire fish, clown gobies, pseudochromis, basslets, and most damsels. While you are not limited to just those fish, these are hardy and good for beginners. Keep the number small from 1 to 5 fish depending on the nano aquarium size.
Cleanup Crews For The Nano
A good cleanup crew will keep your nano reef running smooth, and free from algae, detritus, and other unwanted wastes. Commonly kept cleanup crew critters are red leg hermits, red tip hermits, sand sifter starfish, sand sifter gobies, turbo snails, and astrea snails.
Corals For the Nano Reef
There are may corals that are compatible with the nano tank. Soft corals would include zooanthids, zenias, star polops, and mushroom anemonies. Lps corals would include Fox Coral and Blastomusa. SPS corals do well with metal halide lighting. Acroporas and montiporas are the easiest to grow in a 24-29 gallon nano aquarium. SPS coral frags are the way to go in a nano reef. They are much cheaper and easier to ship. The benefits of buying corals online is the greater variety that cannot be found at your local pet store. Buying several items from the same seller can reduce shipping costs. Simply use some Marineland's Hold Fast, which is a two part epoxy similar to plumbers epoxy, to glue the coral frag to a live rock. Be sure to give them plenty of space for growth.
For more information visit reefkeepingfever.com
RC Moore Content writer for reefkeepingfever.com
There is a new growing popularity in the reef keeping hobby called Nano Reefs. As the name implies, a nano reef is a reef aquarium on a small scale; 2.5 to 29 gallons. The price of a nano reef is also on a small scale, from the tank itself, the lighting, and it takes less live rock and corals to make a very dramatic reef display.
It was often thought that the bigger the aquarium the easier it would be to keep the water parameters stable. You could not keep corals alive without a massive trickle filter, large efficient protein skimmer, and powerful metal halide lighting lights. The bigger the aquarium the more gadgets you could add to make the water quality pristine, from ozone generators, redox meters, ph controllers, and calcium reactors. You had to be a marine biologist and a chemist to maintain a coral reef aquarium. The nano reef aquarium would seem to go against all these principles. Can we really keep corals alive in a 10 gallon aquarium with no sump filter or a protein skimmer?
What has been learned through the years more than anything is, most of the biological filtration occurs in the live rock and live sand. Lighting has also played a role in enabling the reef aquarium to become smaller with the advent of power compact fluorescent and the smaller HQI metal halide lamps. Having invertebrates that sift through and clean the live sand and live rocks ads to the ecological balance of the tank. Most of the trace elements are replaced through a strict regiments of 5% weekly water changes. There is yet to be a salt water mix that has adequate calcium and strontium levels for good coral growth and these elements should be maintained separately.
The best products to maintain calcium, strontium and other trace elements are made from aragonite, such as AragaMilk from CaribSea. So what is aragonite? Aragonite is fossilized coralline algae that has extracted minerals from the ocean to grow. Grinding aragonite into a fine powder and adding water creates a milky substance that precipitates quickly adding these minerals to the water naturally. Add a few drops to top off water to maintain calcium levels at 450 ppm. You will be amazed at the growth rate of SPS corals. Yes I did say SPS corals that can be easily maintained in a nano reef aquarium.
Fish For The Nano Reef Aquarium
Fish are a great addition to a nano reef, but you must take extra care of you nano. You will have to be sure to keep up with your water changes, because a small body of water can collect nitrates quickly. The following fish are nano reef safe: anthius, true and false percula, banggai cardinals, pajama cardinals, royal grammas, fire fish, clown gobies, pseudochromis, basslets, and most damsels. While you are not limited to just those fish, these are hardy and good for beginners. Keep the number small from 1 to 5 fish depending on the nano aquarium size.
Cleanup Crews For The Nano
A good cleanup crew will keep your nano reef running smooth, and free from algae, detritus, and other unwanted wastes. Commonly kept cleanup crew critters are red leg hermits, red tip hermits, sand sifter starfish, sand sifter gobies, turbo snails, and astrea snails.
Corals For the Nano Reef
There are may corals that are compatible with the nano tank. Soft corals would include zooanthids, zenias, star polops, and mushroom anemonies. Lps corals would include Fox Coral and Blastomusa. SPS corals do well with metal halide lighting. Acroporas and montiporas are the easiest to grow in a 24-29 gallon nano aquarium. SPS coral frags are the way to go in a nano reef. They are much cheaper and easier to ship. The benefits of buying corals online is the greater variety that cannot be found at your local pet store. Buying several items from the same seller can reduce shipping costs. Simply use some Marineland's Hold Fast, which is a two part epoxy similar to plumbers epoxy, to glue the coral frag to a live rock. Be sure to give them plenty of space for growth.
For more information visit reefkeepingfever.com
RC Moore Content writer for reefkeepingfever.com
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Goldfish Breeding, Part 2
By Peter Ponzio
Fry Development
In the previous article, we talked about breeding fish from first spawn through 2 -3 months of age. This article will concentrate on development from 3 - 6 months of age.
By the time goldfish reach 3 months of age, approximately 2 to 3 culls will have taken place. The first several culls are performed to remove fish which have obvious deformities, or do not meet general breed requirements. Culls from these stages can be donated to folks who want fish, pet shops, neighborhood children, or humanely destroyed. I prefer to donate the fish, and there seems to be a ready market of folks who would like fish. This process usually takes a little longer, but makes people happy and saves fish.
By three months of age, body style and finnage will begin to take their final form. Coloration will start taking shape as well, although metallic fish can take up to a year for de-coloration to occur. Breed characteristics (like head growth, eyes, etc.) will begin to develop.
A fourth cull should be performed at about 4 - 5 months to select the fish to be raised through maturity. Out of a spawn of several hundred to several thousand fish, no more than 5 - 10 fish should be maintained for final grow-out. There are several reasons for this small percentage of fish which are selected for grow-out. The primary reason is space; there is just not enough space to raise all of the fish that are spawned. If not given enough space, fish will not grow to optimal sizes. The second reason is food: raising large numbers of fish requires a great deal of food. The third reason is water quality; maintenance of proper water conditions is difficult when faced with large fish loads. The final reason is genetics: most fish will have some sort of defect or undesirable characteristic for showing.
By six months of age, fish will look very much like their breed variety, but not all variety characteristics will be fully developed yet. Eventually, the fish will look like their parents.
Author Biography
Peter Ponzio, the author of Children of the Night, is a CPA with over 30 years experience in Corporate Finance, holding positions as divergent as Treasurer, VP of Sales Administration, Vice President of IT, and General Manager of an internet start-up company in the late 1990s, and CFO at a subsidiary of a Fortune 100 company.
Mr. Ponzio graduated with a degree in English literature from Loyola University of Chicago, and is currently attending Northwestern University in pursuit of an MA in Literature.
Peter's website can be reached at http://www.peterjponzio.com
Fry Development
In the previous article, we talked about breeding fish from first spawn through 2 -3 months of age. This article will concentrate on development from 3 - 6 months of age.
By the time goldfish reach 3 months of age, approximately 2 to 3 culls will have taken place. The first several culls are performed to remove fish which have obvious deformities, or do not meet general breed requirements. Culls from these stages can be donated to folks who want fish, pet shops, neighborhood children, or humanely destroyed. I prefer to donate the fish, and there seems to be a ready market of folks who would like fish. This process usually takes a little longer, but makes people happy and saves fish.
By three months of age, body style and finnage will begin to take their final form. Coloration will start taking shape as well, although metallic fish can take up to a year for de-coloration to occur. Breed characteristics (like head growth, eyes, etc.) will begin to develop.
A fourth cull should be performed at about 4 - 5 months to select the fish to be raised through maturity. Out of a spawn of several hundred to several thousand fish, no more than 5 - 10 fish should be maintained for final grow-out. There are several reasons for this small percentage of fish which are selected for grow-out. The primary reason is space; there is just not enough space to raise all of the fish that are spawned. If not given enough space, fish will not grow to optimal sizes. The second reason is food: raising large numbers of fish requires a great deal of food. The third reason is water quality; maintenance of proper water conditions is difficult when faced with large fish loads. The final reason is genetics: most fish will have some sort of defect or undesirable characteristic for showing.
By six months of age, fish will look very much like their breed variety, but not all variety characteristics will be fully developed yet. Eventually, the fish will look like their parents.
Author Biography
Peter Ponzio, the author of Children of the Night, is a CPA with over 30 years experience in Corporate Finance, holding positions as divergent as Treasurer, VP of Sales Administration, Vice President of IT, and General Manager of an internet start-up company in the late 1990s, and CFO at a subsidiary of a Fortune 100 company.
Mr. Ponzio graduated with a degree in English literature from Loyola University of Chicago, and is currently attending Northwestern University in pursuit of an MA in Literature.
Peter's website can be reached at http://www.peterjponzio.com
Sunday, February 3, 2008
Acrylic Aquarium Lighting
By Kathy Ferneau
Lighting is a necessary element to the acrylic aquarium, both to mimic light as it would appear in a natural environment and for viewers to see the elements of the aquarium.
Acrylic aquarium lighting also adds brilliance to the display.
Natural daylight from the sun is required to support the animal and plant life in the aquarium. Placement of the aquarium is a factor in the amount of sunlight the aquarium will receive.
Incandescent bulbs
Smaller aquariums can use incandescent bulbs, but a great deal of heat is emitted from them and thus fluorescents are much preferred.
Standard fluorescent bulbs
Aquarium lighting systems have typically been fluorescent bulbs because they emit less heat and use less energy.
Power compacts
An efficient way of lighting your acrylic aquarium is with power compact lights. This light source is more intense than traditional fluorescent bulbs. They don't heat up as much and save on energy.
Metal halide
Metal halide bulbs have been popular as well. Created in the 1960s, these lights are popular for their high intensity light source. These bulbs are more powerful than traditional fluorescents and glow in a wide arc.
The newest rage in acrylic aquarium lighting is the Solaris LED system which replaces metal halide and fluorescent bulbs. These lights burn for 50,000 hours, reducing replacement intervals to nearly six years. LED lights heat up and out of the tank so the water temperature is not disturbed. A chiller is not needed and less strain is placed on the air conditioning system in the space. Built-in microprocessors allow the lights to be automatically set for color differentiations at various times of the day.
Consideration also must be given to the color of the light. Known as "Kelvin," the amount of Kelvin intensity produces different lighting colors in the aquarium.
Lighting varies for freshwater life versus saltwater life.
Light timers can be installed to automate the amount of lighting provide in the aquarium.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out here... http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
Lighting is a necessary element to the acrylic aquarium, both to mimic light as it would appear in a natural environment and for viewers to see the elements of the aquarium.
Acrylic aquarium lighting also adds brilliance to the display.
Natural daylight from the sun is required to support the animal and plant life in the aquarium. Placement of the aquarium is a factor in the amount of sunlight the aquarium will receive.
Incandescent bulbs
Smaller aquariums can use incandescent bulbs, but a great deal of heat is emitted from them and thus fluorescents are much preferred.
Standard fluorescent bulbs
Aquarium lighting systems have typically been fluorescent bulbs because they emit less heat and use less energy.
Power compacts
An efficient way of lighting your acrylic aquarium is with power compact lights. This light source is more intense than traditional fluorescent bulbs. They don't heat up as much and save on energy.
Metal halide
Metal halide bulbs have been popular as well. Created in the 1960s, these lights are popular for their high intensity light source. These bulbs are more powerful than traditional fluorescents and glow in a wide arc.
The newest rage in acrylic aquarium lighting is the Solaris LED system which replaces metal halide and fluorescent bulbs. These lights burn for 50,000 hours, reducing replacement intervals to nearly six years. LED lights heat up and out of the tank so the water temperature is not disturbed. A chiller is not needed and less strain is placed on the air conditioning system in the space. Built-in microprocessors allow the lights to be automatically set for color differentiations at various times of the day.
Consideration also must be given to the color of the light. Known as "Kelvin," the amount of Kelvin intensity produces different lighting colors in the aquarium.
Lighting varies for freshwater life versus saltwater life.
Light timers can be installed to automate the amount of lighting provide in the aquarium.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out here... http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
Friday, February 1, 2008
How Fast Do Goldfish Grow
By Jamie Boyle
Many aquarium owners having goldfish often wonder how big and how fast there goldfish will grow.
Goldfish growth really depends on certain factors that will influence how fast they grow. Some factors that directly influence goldfish growth are:
1. How clean is the water for your Goldfish?
2. How big is the environment, goldfish bowl, goldfish aquarium or goldfish pond?
3. What kind of goldfish food are you feeding your fish?
4. The genetics (DNA) of the goldfish parents passed on to their offspring.
How fast do goldfish grow is really a tough question to answer really. As mentioned above these factors will influence the growth potential of your goldfish. For example how clean your water is impacts how fast they will grow. If the water is too clear then lacks algae and food to feed on. Second if water quality is not kept up with proper maintenance causes stress on goldfish which may impact the goldfish desire to eat. If goldfish don't eat, they don't grow, therefore growing slower then normal.
The environment or home for your goldfish plays a big part on how fast goldfish will grow as well. For instance if you put a goldfish in a goldfish bowl it won't grow as much as it would if it were in an aquarium or garden pond. The environment plays a major part in goldfish growth. Goldfish will only grow to the size of their environment in which it can handle. Also the more space a goldfish has will help increase the size of your goldfish and won't stunt your goldfish from growing. When goldfish have big aquariums or tanks to grow in it will make less maintenance for you and much happier goldfish. Another reason goldfish grow faster in larger environments is there is more food readily available to eat. There is always food in an aquarium to eat for goldfish especially in ponds. Goldfish will grow fast due to abundance of algae to eat and also the live microscopic animals and insects to feed on. Goldfish basically have a buffet at anytime they want with the amount of food they will find to eat living in ponds. Goldfish will grow extremely fast as well if the water is green like pea soup or they are grown in mud ponds. You will see your goldfish grow fast.
The goldfish food that you feed them plays a part in their growth as well. If you want your goldfish to grow fast consider feeding them a wide variety of foods. Also high growth food will help as well maximizing the growth of your goldfish. You can also feed them several times a day just make sure they eat all the goldfish food that you give them within 2 minutes other then that discard uneaten food as it will foul your water. Goldfish food will play a part in their growth as well.
So to really answer the question, "How Fast Do Goldfish Grow" really has too many factors to really answer. Also genetics plays a part in this as well. If you look at some people today some are skinny, some are large, medium, petite, tall and short. Everyone grows differently and the same goes for goldfish. For example I'm 6'4" while my parents are like 5'6" so I grew taller. Usually if you come from a tall family you will have tall kids which happens most times through DNA passed on to kids. So goldfish genetics and DNA sometimes will impact how fast goldfish grow as well. Really a question with no true answer but definitely things people can do to grow goldfish faster by doing several things. Biggest thing that will help grow your goldfish fast is give them the space they deserve don't confine goldfish to small tanks go bigger and you will have bigger goldfish too.
Jamie Boyle is an online author who writes and maintains his Goldfish Care Information blog to help people answer questions involving goldfish. If you need more information on goldfish please visit http://goldfish-care-information.blogspot.com
Many aquarium owners having goldfish often wonder how big and how fast there goldfish will grow.
Goldfish growth really depends on certain factors that will influence how fast they grow. Some factors that directly influence goldfish growth are:
1. How clean is the water for your Goldfish?
2. How big is the environment, goldfish bowl, goldfish aquarium or goldfish pond?
3. What kind of goldfish food are you feeding your fish?
4. The genetics (DNA) of the goldfish parents passed on to their offspring.
How fast do goldfish grow is really a tough question to answer really. As mentioned above these factors will influence the growth potential of your goldfish. For example how clean your water is impacts how fast they will grow. If the water is too clear then lacks algae and food to feed on. Second if water quality is not kept up with proper maintenance causes stress on goldfish which may impact the goldfish desire to eat. If goldfish don't eat, they don't grow, therefore growing slower then normal.
The environment or home for your goldfish plays a big part on how fast goldfish will grow as well. For instance if you put a goldfish in a goldfish bowl it won't grow as much as it would if it were in an aquarium or garden pond. The environment plays a major part in goldfish growth. Goldfish will only grow to the size of their environment in which it can handle. Also the more space a goldfish has will help increase the size of your goldfish and won't stunt your goldfish from growing. When goldfish have big aquariums or tanks to grow in it will make less maintenance for you and much happier goldfish. Another reason goldfish grow faster in larger environments is there is more food readily available to eat. There is always food in an aquarium to eat for goldfish especially in ponds. Goldfish will grow fast due to abundance of algae to eat and also the live microscopic animals and insects to feed on. Goldfish basically have a buffet at anytime they want with the amount of food they will find to eat living in ponds. Goldfish will grow extremely fast as well if the water is green like pea soup or they are grown in mud ponds. You will see your goldfish grow fast.
The goldfish food that you feed them plays a part in their growth as well. If you want your goldfish to grow fast consider feeding them a wide variety of foods. Also high growth food will help as well maximizing the growth of your goldfish. You can also feed them several times a day just make sure they eat all the goldfish food that you give them within 2 minutes other then that discard uneaten food as it will foul your water. Goldfish food will play a part in their growth as well.
So to really answer the question, "How Fast Do Goldfish Grow" really has too many factors to really answer. Also genetics plays a part in this as well. If you look at some people today some are skinny, some are large, medium, petite, tall and short. Everyone grows differently and the same goes for goldfish. For example I'm 6'4" while my parents are like 5'6" so I grew taller. Usually if you come from a tall family you will have tall kids which happens most times through DNA passed on to kids. So goldfish genetics and DNA sometimes will impact how fast goldfish grow as well. Really a question with no true answer but definitely things people can do to grow goldfish faster by doing several things. Biggest thing that will help grow your goldfish fast is give them the space they deserve don't confine goldfish to small tanks go bigger and you will have bigger goldfish too.
Jamie Boyle is an online author who writes and maintains his Goldfish Care Information blog to help people answer questions involving goldfish. If you need more information on goldfish please visit http://goldfish-care-information.blogspot.com
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Acrylic Aquarium Life Support Systems
By Kathy Ferneau
When we hear the term "life support," we conjure up images of Mission Control at Houston maintaining the environment for astronauts in outer space.
Yet the correlation is very close indeed. The marine life inside of an acrylic aquarium must have its life artificially supported by the aquarium designer. Science and art intermingle in a very delicate balancing act.
The aquarium exudes serenity and beauty from the public viewing angles, but behind the scenes a complex assortment of high-tech equipment pumps, filters, and monitors. The importance of a fail-safe system cannot be overemphasized.
Life support systems maintain a very delicate balance of biological, mechanical, and chemical filtration systems.
Acrylic aquarium designers maintain their own philosophies for life support systems, but must give careful thought to optimum water life environment, initial cost and continued maintenance costs, noise of operating system, and ease of maintenance.
The initial layout of the life support system begins with the initial design of the aquarium itself. Critical elements include...
1) Dimensions of the aquarium.
2) Where the aquarium and the life support system will be located.
3) Operating budget.
4) A myriad of other details regarding the actual space where the aquarium will be located.
Aquarium life support systems are usually self-contained within the piece itself, but they can be located in another room in the case of a very large display. Aquarium life support systems can be closed or open, and a particular aquarium may have both types, with an open system functioning within a closed system. Both types turn over the environment four times per hour. Both types of systems provide filtration, with a closed system providing additional filtering.
Biological
These factors will include chilling and heating components to maintain proper water temperature. Care must be taken to insure biological filters are customized for bacteria colonies specific to the environment of the aquarium. This takes time to achieve and should not be rushed.
Mechanical
Properly functioning filters and pumping systems must be in place at all times. Backup systems for power outages or surges must be figured into the setup as well.
Chemical filtration
This factor includes eliminating fish waste products on a consistent basis. Any concentration of nitrates proves deadly to fish.
Some of the components include...
Protein skimmer - These improve water clarity and quality by removing organic matter.
Mechanical filter
Chemical filter
UV sterilizer
Chillers and heaters
Wet/dry bio reactor
Life support systems are designed with a computer layout first with considerations for utility access and maintenance taken into consideration.
Installation of the life support system occurs when the piece itself is installed at the site. The system and the aquarium are equal partners in the overall entire aquarium display.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out here... http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
When we hear the term "life support," we conjure up images of Mission Control at Houston maintaining the environment for astronauts in outer space.
Yet the correlation is very close indeed. The marine life inside of an acrylic aquarium must have its life artificially supported by the aquarium designer. Science and art intermingle in a very delicate balancing act.
The aquarium exudes serenity and beauty from the public viewing angles, but behind the scenes a complex assortment of high-tech equipment pumps, filters, and monitors. The importance of a fail-safe system cannot be overemphasized.
Life support systems maintain a very delicate balance of biological, mechanical, and chemical filtration systems.
Acrylic aquarium designers maintain their own philosophies for life support systems, but must give careful thought to optimum water life environment, initial cost and continued maintenance costs, noise of operating system, and ease of maintenance.
The initial layout of the life support system begins with the initial design of the aquarium itself. Critical elements include...
1) Dimensions of the aquarium.
2) Where the aquarium and the life support system will be located.
3) Operating budget.
4) A myriad of other details regarding the actual space where the aquarium will be located.
Aquarium life support systems are usually self-contained within the piece itself, but they can be located in another room in the case of a very large display. Aquarium life support systems can be closed or open, and a particular aquarium may have both types, with an open system functioning within a closed system. Both types turn over the environment four times per hour. Both types of systems provide filtration, with a closed system providing additional filtering.
Biological
These factors will include chilling and heating components to maintain proper water temperature. Care must be taken to insure biological filters are customized for bacteria colonies specific to the environment of the aquarium. This takes time to achieve and should not be rushed.
Mechanical
Properly functioning filters and pumping systems must be in place at all times. Backup systems for power outages or surges must be figured into the setup as well.
Chemical filtration
This factor includes eliminating fish waste products on a consistent basis. Any concentration of nitrates proves deadly to fish.
Some of the components include...
Protein skimmer - These improve water clarity and quality by removing organic matter.
Mechanical filter
Chemical filter
UV sterilizer
Chillers and heaters
Wet/dry bio reactor
Life support systems are designed with a computer layout first with considerations for utility access and maintenance taken into consideration.
Installation of the life support system occurs when the piece itself is installed at the site. The system and the aquarium are equal partners in the overall entire aquarium display.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out here... http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Goldfish Breeding, Part 1
By Peter Ponzio
Each year, as the days grow longer in the springtime, mature goldfish begin the process of producing eggs in the females, and milt in the males. Many of these changes are triggered by increasing daylight and warmer water temperatures. The availability of increased food production in the form of bloodworm and gnat larvae, if the goldfish live outdoors, adds to the changes in the fish.
The changes which occur in goldfish include a general swelling in the female, as eggs begin to develop, and the appearance of tiny bumps, or "tubercles," on the leading edges of the pectoral fins, and on the gill covers in males.
In warmer climates, goldfish may begin spawning outdoors at the end of April, but in most other areas, goldfish begin spawning in May or June. In many cases, fish spawn without any apparent indications, especially if fish are kept in a pond, and in a mixed population. For fish kept in aquaria, the signs are present if the fish are closely observed.
Spawning will take place early in the morning, usually just before sunrise. Spawning activity seems to be triggered by several factors, including: rainfall on the days preceding spawning; a drop in water temperature of a few degrees; partial water changes; and a full or nearly-full moon.
Spawning will generally last several hours, and thousands to tens of thousands of eggs will be laid, depending on the size of the female. Eggs are generally quite small, round, and sticky. Please see the following picture of eggs taken in an indoor aquarium, to get an idea of the size and shape.Please remove adult fish after a spawn, if you wish to raise the babies. Adult fish will eat eggs (and fry) after a spawn. Baby fish, once recognized, will not be eaten by mature goldfish. Fish generally recognize babies once they reach �" to 1" in size.
Eggs will generally hatch in from 4 - 7 days, depending on the water temperature. The fry are quite small at the time of hatching, and feed for the first 3 -5 days on the attached yolk sac. Upon hatching, and for a period of approximately two weeks after hatching, fry will stay attached to the surface on which the eggs were laid, or near the surface of the water. As their swim bladder begins to function, the fry will begin swimming at various levels of the aquarium.
After the fry have depleted their yolk sacs, you should begin to feed them food. Early foods can include the following: newly hatched brine shrimp; boiled egg yolk; and infusorians. For folks that have an outdoor pond, feeding can supplement food that the fry will find in the pond. For people who have fish housed in an aquarium, food will have to be supplied by the owner.
After a few weeks, crumbled flake foods, small fry food, crumbled freeze-dried blood worms, daphnia, and brine shrimp can be fed to the fish. During the phase of early development, feed the fish several times a day (perhaps 3 - 5 times daily) in small quantities. It is important to carefully monitor water quality and to make periodic water changes, as some foods (especially egg yolk) can foul the water.
Metallic fish will begin to de-color, that is change from the wild green color, at 2 - 3 months old. For nacreous and matte fish, colors will tend to deepen as the fish mature. More nacreous and Matte fish start out with a mottled white coloration, with reds, blacks, oranges and blues developing as the fish age.
If you are raising fry for breeding or show purposes, you will need to select fry that meet characteristics which you have established in your breeding program. Fry with deformities such as missing fins, tripod tails (in the case of the double tail varieties), and other physical defects can be given away or disposed of beginning at 6 - 7 weeks. The practice of selecting fish with certain characteristics is known as "culling."
A second culling can occur at 8 - 10 weeks, and will concentrate on coloration and conformity to bred standards. A 3rd culling can be done a 3 months, at which time most fish will begin to exhibit special breed characteristics, such as head growth, eye development, and pearl scales. It is not unusual for only 5 - 10% of a spawn to remain after the third culling. While some people object to the thought of giving away fish, or culling a spawn, goldfish will not thrive in over crowded conditions. The practice of reducing the population size is necessary for goldfish development and quality.
As fish approach 2 - 3 months in age, attempt to feed a larger percentage of live, frozen, or freeze dried food. Increased protein content in the food is required for the development of head growth and pearl scales in particular. Avoid feeding floating foods, which, while good for koi, and not very helpful for goldfish, particularly the full-bodied double tail fish. Continued feeding of floating food will cause the goldfish to ingest large quantities of air, and may upset the fishes' equilibrium. Sinking pellet or granulated food can be fed at 2 -3 months as a supplement to live or frozen food.
For those interested in making their own food, several goldfish food recipes are available, both online, and from GFSA (Goldfish Society of America) articles. Books such as The Goldfish Guide by Matsui also have homemade recipes included.
A final cull can be accomplished at six months, which would be performed to select fish to grow out and over-winter. This selection would be based on a combination of conformance with standard guidelines, color and overall confirmation. By the end of the 4th cull, it is likely that only 1 - 2% of the spawn will remain, and that the fish selected will be exceptional.
Author Biography
Peter Ponzio, the author of Children of the Night, is a CPA with over 30 years experience in Corporate Finance, holding positions as divergent as Treasurer, VP of Sales Administration, Vice President of IT, and General Manager of an internet start-up company in the late 1990s, and CFO at a subsidiary of a Fortune 100 company.
Mr. Ponzio graduated with a degree in English literature from Loyola University of Chicago, and is currently attending Northwestern University in pursuit of an MA in Literature.
Peter's website can be reached at http://www.peterjponzio.com
Each year, as the days grow longer in the springtime, mature goldfish begin the process of producing eggs in the females, and milt in the males. Many of these changes are triggered by increasing daylight and warmer water temperatures. The availability of increased food production in the form of bloodworm and gnat larvae, if the goldfish live outdoors, adds to the changes in the fish.
The changes which occur in goldfish include a general swelling in the female, as eggs begin to develop, and the appearance of tiny bumps, or "tubercles," on the leading edges of the pectoral fins, and on the gill covers in males.
In warmer climates, goldfish may begin spawning outdoors at the end of April, but in most other areas, goldfish begin spawning in May or June. In many cases, fish spawn without any apparent indications, especially if fish are kept in a pond, and in a mixed population. For fish kept in aquaria, the signs are present if the fish are closely observed.
Spawning will take place early in the morning, usually just before sunrise. Spawning activity seems to be triggered by several factors, including: rainfall on the days preceding spawning; a drop in water temperature of a few degrees; partial water changes; and a full or nearly-full moon.
Spawning will generally last several hours, and thousands to tens of thousands of eggs will be laid, depending on the size of the female. Eggs are generally quite small, round, and sticky. Please see the following picture of eggs taken in an indoor aquarium, to get an idea of the size and shape.Please remove adult fish after a spawn, if you wish to raise the babies. Adult fish will eat eggs (and fry) after a spawn. Baby fish, once recognized, will not be eaten by mature goldfish. Fish generally recognize babies once they reach �" to 1" in size.
Eggs will generally hatch in from 4 - 7 days, depending on the water temperature. The fry are quite small at the time of hatching, and feed for the first 3 -5 days on the attached yolk sac. Upon hatching, and for a period of approximately two weeks after hatching, fry will stay attached to the surface on which the eggs were laid, or near the surface of the water. As their swim bladder begins to function, the fry will begin swimming at various levels of the aquarium.
After the fry have depleted their yolk sacs, you should begin to feed them food. Early foods can include the following: newly hatched brine shrimp; boiled egg yolk; and infusorians. For folks that have an outdoor pond, feeding can supplement food that the fry will find in the pond. For people who have fish housed in an aquarium, food will have to be supplied by the owner.
After a few weeks, crumbled flake foods, small fry food, crumbled freeze-dried blood worms, daphnia, and brine shrimp can be fed to the fish. During the phase of early development, feed the fish several times a day (perhaps 3 - 5 times daily) in small quantities. It is important to carefully monitor water quality and to make periodic water changes, as some foods (especially egg yolk) can foul the water.
Metallic fish will begin to de-color, that is change from the wild green color, at 2 - 3 months old. For nacreous and matte fish, colors will tend to deepen as the fish mature. More nacreous and Matte fish start out with a mottled white coloration, with reds, blacks, oranges and blues developing as the fish age.
If you are raising fry for breeding or show purposes, you will need to select fry that meet characteristics which you have established in your breeding program. Fry with deformities such as missing fins, tripod tails (in the case of the double tail varieties), and other physical defects can be given away or disposed of beginning at 6 - 7 weeks. The practice of selecting fish with certain characteristics is known as "culling."
A second culling can occur at 8 - 10 weeks, and will concentrate on coloration and conformity to bred standards. A 3rd culling can be done a 3 months, at which time most fish will begin to exhibit special breed characteristics, such as head growth, eye development, and pearl scales. It is not unusual for only 5 - 10% of a spawn to remain after the third culling. While some people object to the thought of giving away fish, or culling a spawn, goldfish will not thrive in over crowded conditions. The practice of reducing the population size is necessary for goldfish development and quality.
As fish approach 2 - 3 months in age, attempt to feed a larger percentage of live, frozen, or freeze dried food. Increased protein content in the food is required for the development of head growth and pearl scales in particular. Avoid feeding floating foods, which, while good for koi, and not very helpful for goldfish, particularly the full-bodied double tail fish. Continued feeding of floating food will cause the goldfish to ingest large quantities of air, and may upset the fishes' equilibrium. Sinking pellet or granulated food can be fed at 2 -3 months as a supplement to live or frozen food.
For those interested in making their own food, several goldfish food recipes are available, both online, and from GFSA (Goldfish Society of America) articles. Books such as The Goldfish Guide by Matsui also have homemade recipes included.
A final cull can be accomplished at six months, which would be performed to select fish to grow out and over-winter. This selection would be based on a combination of conformance with standard guidelines, color and overall confirmation. By the end of the 4th cull, it is likely that only 1 - 2% of the spawn will remain, and that the fish selected will be exceptional.
Author Biography
Peter Ponzio, the author of Children of the Night, is a CPA with over 30 years experience in Corporate Finance, holding positions as divergent as Treasurer, VP of Sales Administration, Vice President of IT, and General Manager of an internet start-up company in the late 1990s, and CFO at a subsidiary of a Fortune 100 company.
Mr. Ponzio graduated with a degree in English literature from Loyola University of Chicago, and is currently attending Northwestern University in pursuit of an MA in Literature.
Peter's website can be reached at http://www.peterjponzio.com
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Algae And The Reef Aquarium
By John W Fletcher
One of the most common reasons why people leave the marine aquarium hobby is due to nuisance algae. There is no doubt that it can become a real heart breaker after spending so much time and effort at this hobby only to be defeated by such a small organism as algae.
Just about everyone who has ever set up a marine tank has to deal with nuisance algae at one time or another. Typically it will start showing up near the end of your tanks cycle, about 3 to 5 weeks after your setup. Some of the time it will go away on its own, in a few weeks, as your aquarium has a chance to stabilize. Even if the algae do disappear, there is always a chance it could return.
What are algae?
Essentially, they are organisms that produce their own food by a process called photosynthesis. There are many forms that can range from kelp to caulaerpa to those brown dots growing on the panels of glass in your aquarium. For this discussion we will concentrate on just the nuisance algae.
Some of the more crucial factors that affect algae growth in your reef aquarium are light, water flow, nutrient concentrations, and competition for those nutrients.
Of all these factors, light has the greatest impact. A typical coral reef in the wild has very high light intensity. One way to kill it is to deprive it of light. In your reef, the quantity, spectrum, and duration of your lights all influence not only what types of algae are present, but also, the abundance.
The age of the bulbs in your lighting system has a direct effect on the kinds of algae that can grow in your tank. Older bulbs do not burn with the same intensity or spectrum that they did when they were new. Because of this they can become a source for problem algae growth. They need to be replaced at regular intervals. You should research the type of bulb you are using and how long they will last before replacements are needed. You should really document when you buy the bulbs so that you know when they need replacing.
Water flow or should I say the lack of it, throughout your aquarium can also have an impact. Advances in the design of power heads have come a long way in resent years. The kind of flow coming out of them is a lot better now. An upgrade might be just what you need.
The level of nutrient concentrations also has a big impact on populations. Many types of hair and slime algae will start growing in response to excess nutrients, especially nitrates and phosphates. Regular water changes go a long way to directly reducing the amount of nutrients in your system. Good phosphate removing compounds are readily available at the local fish store. Some people run them in a reactor all the time.
Finally we come to nutrient competition. Many people grow Macro algae in their sump in an attempt to out compete the nuisance algae. Chaeto is a great macro for this job. It is fast growing and will use up plenty of nutrients. This works very well in a lot of cases.
I hope this short discussion has been of benefit to you. http://www.reefbasics.com
One of the most common reasons why people leave the marine aquarium hobby is due to nuisance algae. There is no doubt that it can become a real heart breaker after spending so much time and effort at this hobby only to be defeated by such a small organism as algae.
Just about everyone who has ever set up a marine tank has to deal with nuisance algae at one time or another. Typically it will start showing up near the end of your tanks cycle, about 3 to 5 weeks after your setup. Some of the time it will go away on its own, in a few weeks, as your aquarium has a chance to stabilize. Even if the algae do disappear, there is always a chance it could return.
What are algae?
Essentially, they are organisms that produce their own food by a process called photosynthesis. There are many forms that can range from kelp to caulaerpa to those brown dots growing on the panels of glass in your aquarium. For this discussion we will concentrate on just the nuisance algae.
Some of the more crucial factors that affect algae growth in your reef aquarium are light, water flow, nutrient concentrations, and competition for those nutrients.
Of all these factors, light has the greatest impact. A typical coral reef in the wild has very high light intensity. One way to kill it is to deprive it of light. In your reef, the quantity, spectrum, and duration of your lights all influence not only what types of algae are present, but also, the abundance.
The age of the bulbs in your lighting system has a direct effect on the kinds of algae that can grow in your tank. Older bulbs do not burn with the same intensity or spectrum that they did when they were new. Because of this they can become a source for problem algae growth. They need to be replaced at regular intervals. You should research the type of bulb you are using and how long they will last before replacements are needed. You should really document when you buy the bulbs so that you know when they need replacing.
Water flow or should I say the lack of it, throughout your aquarium can also have an impact. Advances in the design of power heads have come a long way in resent years. The kind of flow coming out of them is a lot better now. An upgrade might be just what you need.
The level of nutrient concentrations also has a big impact on populations. Many types of hair and slime algae will start growing in response to excess nutrients, especially nitrates and phosphates. Regular water changes go a long way to directly reducing the amount of nutrients in your system. Good phosphate removing compounds are readily available at the local fish store. Some people run them in a reactor all the time.
Finally we come to nutrient competition. Many people grow Macro algae in their sump in an attempt to out compete the nuisance algae. Chaeto is a great macro for this job. It is fast growing and will use up plenty of nutrients. This works very well in a lot of cases.
I hope this short discussion has been of benefit to you. http://www.reefbasics.com
Friday, January 25, 2008
Acrylic Aquarium Structure
By Kathy Ferneau
That lovely acrylic aquarium weighs a lot--about 10 pounds per gallon of material, so it definitely needs a structure to support it.
Creativity can be applied to structural supports as freely as for the aquarium itself.
The structural support itself should be...
1) Solid. Avoid individual legs as these tend to be weaker.
2) Even. The surface on which the aquarium sits should be even; using a level to gauge this is vital.
3) Wide enough to spread out the weight. Make sure the structure spreads out the weight of the aquarium and is not too tall.
Steel supports are a good idea for very heavy aquariums. The steel beams are usually powder coated to resist corrosion from humidity.
The structural support is often a wood cabinet. Many types of woods, finishes, decorative carving and metal fixtures can be applied.
Believe it or not, fish will sometimes try to jump out of an aquarium, especially if they are stressed, so the canopy will prevent them from floundering on the floor.
An acrylic aquarium canopy or hood is a finishing touch on the aquarium. You want to see the beautiful aquarium and aquatic life, not the wires and filters that keep it running! This additional part of the cabinetry hides the components of the tank, yet provides easy access to it for cleaning and maintenance.
The aquarium canopy also keeps out dust, debris, and flying insects, and reduces evaporation.
Canopy considerations include...
1) Type of lighting. Hotter light sources need a taller canopy to allow heat disbursement.
2) Fan holes. Holes are cut into the canopy in the back to allow for ventilation. Placement of these holes for aesthetic reasons is necessary.
The finishing touches for your aquarium include decorations for the inside and outside of the tank. You can have...
1) Picture frames
2) Driftwood
3) Ships and other sea-going vessels
4) Underwater castles, volcanoes and mermaids
5) Artificial plant life
Decorations outside the aquarium as part of the structure can be wood carvings and inset photos or other images.
A prime consideration, of course, is that anything that goes into the aquarium is not toxic to your fish.
Be careful that nothing you put in the aquarium contains metal that will rust.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out here... http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
That lovely acrylic aquarium weighs a lot--about 10 pounds per gallon of material, so it definitely needs a structure to support it.
Creativity can be applied to structural supports as freely as for the aquarium itself.
The structural support itself should be...
1) Solid. Avoid individual legs as these tend to be weaker.
2) Even. The surface on which the aquarium sits should be even; using a level to gauge this is vital.
3) Wide enough to spread out the weight. Make sure the structure spreads out the weight of the aquarium and is not too tall.
Steel supports are a good idea for very heavy aquariums. The steel beams are usually powder coated to resist corrosion from humidity.
The structural support is often a wood cabinet. Many types of woods, finishes, decorative carving and metal fixtures can be applied.
Believe it or not, fish will sometimes try to jump out of an aquarium, especially if they are stressed, so the canopy will prevent them from floundering on the floor.
An acrylic aquarium canopy or hood is a finishing touch on the aquarium. You want to see the beautiful aquarium and aquatic life, not the wires and filters that keep it running! This additional part of the cabinetry hides the components of the tank, yet provides easy access to it for cleaning and maintenance.
The aquarium canopy also keeps out dust, debris, and flying insects, and reduces evaporation.
Canopy considerations include...
1) Type of lighting. Hotter light sources need a taller canopy to allow heat disbursement.
2) Fan holes. Holes are cut into the canopy in the back to allow for ventilation. Placement of these holes for aesthetic reasons is necessary.
The finishing touches for your aquarium include decorations for the inside and outside of the tank. You can have...
1) Picture frames
2) Driftwood
3) Ships and other sea-going vessels
4) Underwater castles, volcanoes and mermaids
5) Artificial plant life
Decorations outside the aquarium as part of the structure can be wood carvings and inset photos or other images.
A prime consideration, of course, is that anything that goes into the aquarium is not toxic to your fish.
Be careful that nothing you put in the aquarium contains metal that will rust.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out here... http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Betta Fish Care - Out Of Many Betta Fish Books I Recomend Betta Fish Secrets
By Daniel Jonson
The Betta is Colorful, elegant and incredibly beautiful. But before you buy one though there are some things you must know. If you already have them, I am sure you know that they are sensitive and need the right treatment.
I have had Betta fishes for many years and I can tell you that they are much easier to take care of then people think, but you need to do right from the start for your fish happiness and health.
If you are about to buy Betta fish, or already have but want to know how to keep your fish happier and always know what to do, I would like to recommend you to read a book called Betta fish secrets, it is quite cheep at $17 dollars.
The reason I recommend the Betta fish secrets is that the things in the book is very important. The author have been testing different techniques from all types of books and made his own book based on the things that is the most important and works well. All the things you need to know about your fish. Things like:
How to pick the right ones in the shop.
What size of fish you should buy.
How to pick the ideal size for your fish tank.
A 6 step system for setting up your new aquarium.
How to give your fish the right water that it will be happy in.
The advantages and disadvantages of putting plants in the tank.
What fish you can put with your Betta in the same tank.
And a lot more.
Betta fish secrets has all the information that you need to keep your fish healthy and happy. They are sensitive and it is very sad when accidents happen. Its best to avoid that by knowing what to do.
More detailed information and the actual book can be found trough this target=_new betta fish care blog, Where you also can get tips and info about Betta fish. You can go there now with the following link: target=_new http://bettafishcarefaq.wordpress.com/
The Betta is Colorful, elegant and incredibly beautiful. But before you buy one though there are some things you must know. If you already have them, I am sure you know that they are sensitive and need the right treatment.
I have had Betta fishes for many years and I can tell you that they are much easier to take care of then people think, but you need to do right from the start for your fish happiness and health.
If you are about to buy Betta fish, or already have but want to know how to keep your fish happier and always know what to do, I would like to recommend you to read a book called Betta fish secrets, it is quite cheep at $17 dollars.
The reason I recommend the Betta fish secrets is that the things in the book is very important. The author have been testing different techniques from all types of books and made his own book based on the things that is the most important and works well. All the things you need to know about your fish. Things like:
How to pick the right ones in the shop.
What size of fish you should buy.
How to pick the ideal size for your fish tank.
A 6 step system for setting up your new aquarium.
How to give your fish the right water that it will be happy in.
The advantages and disadvantages of putting plants in the tank.
What fish you can put with your Betta in the same tank.
And a lot more.
Betta fish secrets has all the information that you need to keep your fish healthy and happy. They are sensitive and it is very sad when accidents happen. Its best to avoid that by knowing what to do.
More detailed information and the actual book can be found trough this target=_new betta fish care blog, Where you also can get tips and info about Betta fish. You can go there now with the following link: target=_new http://bettafishcarefaq.wordpress.com/
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
The Red Cherry Shrimp - Neocaridina Heteropoda
By Ryan Wood
The Red Cherry Shrimp is undoubtedly the most popular shrimp in the hobby due to the relatively easy ability to breed as well as their ability to live in many different water parameters. Most shrimp hobbyists start out with this species because of it easy requirements and to also learn about dwarf shrimp in general before moving on to the more difficult species. I highly recommend that any newcomer to shrimp keeping use this shrimp as a starter. This shrimp will teach you a lot, and mistakes causing shrimp deaths can be overcome due to their ability to readily breed. You also don't want to make a mistake with another more expensive species.
I have had Red Cherry Shrimp for a long time and have really enjoyed them. I keep them in a 10 gallon planted tank along with Tiger Shrimp being the only other inhabitants.
The temperature is 80�F and the PH is 6.0-6.1. The water is very soft as well.
I feed them mainly Hikari Algae Wafers and the occasional homemade shrimp cookies from other users. They eat very well and will often "fight" when one interferes with anyone when it is eating. It is fun to watch them eat; they all just pile on top of each other.
Breeding them in very simple: Change the water 25% every week, don't overfeed, and of course don't keep them in a tank with inhabitants that could eat the babies. Please don't forget, shrimps in the wild are a natural food source for almost all fish. It is like seeing a hamburger, you are gonna eat it (replace hamburger with another food you like).
Good luck with these shrimp, they are a lot of fun to keep.
More info: http://www.planetinverts.com/Red%20Cherry%20Shrimp.html
By: Ryan Wood http://www.planetinverts.com http://www.planetinverts.com/store
The Red Cherry Shrimp is undoubtedly the most popular shrimp in the hobby due to the relatively easy ability to breed as well as their ability to live in many different water parameters. Most shrimp hobbyists start out with this species because of it easy requirements and to also learn about dwarf shrimp in general before moving on to the more difficult species. I highly recommend that any newcomer to shrimp keeping use this shrimp as a starter. This shrimp will teach you a lot, and mistakes causing shrimp deaths can be overcome due to their ability to readily breed. You also don't want to make a mistake with another more expensive species.
I have had Red Cherry Shrimp for a long time and have really enjoyed them. I keep them in a 10 gallon planted tank along with Tiger Shrimp being the only other inhabitants.
The temperature is 80�F and the PH is 6.0-6.1. The water is very soft as well.
I feed them mainly Hikari Algae Wafers and the occasional homemade shrimp cookies from other users. They eat very well and will often "fight" when one interferes with anyone when it is eating. It is fun to watch them eat; they all just pile on top of each other.
Breeding them in very simple: Change the water 25% every week, don't overfeed, and of course don't keep them in a tank with inhabitants that could eat the babies. Please don't forget, shrimps in the wild are a natural food source for almost all fish. It is like seeing a hamburger, you are gonna eat it (replace hamburger with another food you like).
Good luck with these shrimp, they are a lot of fun to keep.
More info: http://www.planetinverts.com/Red%20Cherry%20Shrimp.html
By: Ryan Wood http://www.planetinverts.com http://www.planetinverts.com/store
Friday, January 11, 2008
Acrylic Aquarium - Hobby and Art
By Kathy Ferneau
If you haven't seen an acrylic aquarium, you're in for a pleasant surprise! These aren't your grandma's goldfish bowls! Get ready for breathtaking displays of art and craftsmanship.
No longer restricted to major aquariums hosting exotic sea life, acrylic aquariums are the must-have art pieces for everything from Las Vegas casinos, Beverly Hills hotels, the Statue of Liberty, and, of course, posh private homes.
Why Acrylic? Typically we think of glass for aquariums, but acrylic has quickly become the material of choice for aquariums.
Let's look at the benefits of acrylic materials...
1) Lighter - Acrylic aquariums are about half as light as glass structures, making them easier to move and assemble.
2) Stronger - Acrylic is up to 17 times as strong as glass, particularly in larger aquariums.
3) Clearer - Acrylic allows more light to pass through it with less distortion.
4) More Flexible - Curved surfaces are possible, with nearly unlimited shapes and sizes. Since acrylic has "give" to it, it will not shatter or explode like glass would.
5) Seamless - Acrylic can be bonded to itself to create an invisible connection. Without the need for ugly seams, greater creativity in sculpting the actual aquarium.
6) Insulating - Acrylic protects the animals and plants against outside temperature fluctuation because it doesn't convey heat and cold like glass does. In the event of a power outage, the aquarium would hold its heat longer than one made from glass.
7) Safer - Acrylic won't shatter or crack. Acrylic can be scratched, but these are easily repaired with repair kits sold in aquarium supply stores and on-line.
8) Acrylic is "machinable," meaning that it can be drilled or routed, unlike glass.
9) Acrylic is easier to ship and position at the final site.
But nothing is perfect, so on the down side, acrylics have a higher initial cost, about two to three times the price of glass. It has a greater tendency to develop scratches, although these can be repaired, and glass can certainly be scratched as well. Acrylics have the risks of yellowing over time, but new UV stabilizers resist yellowing. Finally, acrylic structures need increased support because acrylic tanks will bow under pressure, while glass will not.
All things considered, there is a strong case for acrylic aquariums. If you're a beginning hobbyist, glass is still the way to go, but for larger art pieces, commercial office spaces, restaurants, doctors' offices, and huge public spaces, acrylics are here to stay.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out at http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
If you haven't seen an acrylic aquarium, you're in for a pleasant surprise! These aren't your grandma's goldfish bowls! Get ready for breathtaking displays of art and craftsmanship.
No longer restricted to major aquariums hosting exotic sea life, acrylic aquariums are the must-have art pieces for everything from Las Vegas casinos, Beverly Hills hotels, the Statue of Liberty, and, of course, posh private homes.
Why Acrylic? Typically we think of glass for aquariums, but acrylic has quickly become the material of choice for aquariums.
Let's look at the benefits of acrylic materials...
1) Lighter - Acrylic aquariums are about half as light as glass structures, making them easier to move and assemble.
2) Stronger - Acrylic is up to 17 times as strong as glass, particularly in larger aquariums.
3) Clearer - Acrylic allows more light to pass through it with less distortion.
4) More Flexible - Curved surfaces are possible, with nearly unlimited shapes and sizes. Since acrylic has "give" to it, it will not shatter or explode like glass would.
5) Seamless - Acrylic can be bonded to itself to create an invisible connection. Without the need for ugly seams, greater creativity in sculpting the actual aquarium.
6) Insulating - Acrylic protects the animals and plants against outside temperature fluctuation because it doesn't convey heat and cold like glass does. In the event of a power outage, the aquarium would hold its heat longer than one made from glass.
7) Safer - Acrylic won't shatter or crack. Acrylic can be scratched, but these are easily repaired with repair kits sold in aquarium supply stores and on-line.
8) Acrylic is "machinable," meaning that it can be drilled or routed, unlike glass.
9) Acrylic is easier to ship and position at the final site.
But nothing is perfect, so on the down side, acrylics have a higher initial cost, about two to three times the price of glass. It has a greater tendency to develop scratches, although these can be repaired, and glass can certainly be scratched as well. Acrylics have the risks of yellowing over time, but new UV stabilizers resist yellowing. Finally, acrylic structures need increased support because acrylic tanks will bow under pressure, while glass will not.
All things considered, there is a strong case for acrylic aquariums. If you're a beginning hobbyist, glass is still the way to go, but for larger art pieces, commercial office spaces, restaurants, doctors' offices, and huge public spaces, acrylics are here to stay.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out at http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Items Needed for a Successful Reef
By Richard Gilliland
And your fish will need room to swim and to grow. If you get a small tank you will have small fish that aren't happy because they have no room. This may lead to aggression between your fish and that doesn't make for a good situation at all.
Once you have decided on your tank size, you will need to consider your filtration system, which is where bacteria live. You want bacteria because it breaks down waste. While you can go with mechanical filters, you could instead use a sand bed to mimic how it works in the ocean. This will cost less and work better, so it's a wise choice. Use three to four inches of a fine sand grain and then top it off with one to two inches of heavier sand to keep the lighter sand down.
Next are your rock formations. You will want to start off with figi because of its combination of shape and price, then you can select other rocks based on aesthetics. Between the sand bed and the rock formations, you will actually have created a natural filtration system which all of the critters you place in your tank will like and so will the bacteria you need.
Note that if you are starting with a new tank, you want uncured rock to help cycle your tank, but if adding to an established tank, make sure you used cured rock, so that your cycle is not interfered with.
The next thing to consider is your overflow system including your water pump, sump, and return tubing. You want to use an overflow box set, and a mag drive is a quality pump choice and you can use a tote for the sump. For the tubing you can just use PVC pipe, it's effective.
You need to have a water conditioning system to keep the water fresh for your livestock and to help prevent algae. The right ingredients include a protein skimmer, an RO TFC water filter, and an RO float valve kit.
Your lighting system is also important. You want a mix of two kinds of bulb: 10,000K white and 460 Actinic (blue) bulbs, and put them on a timer because you only want to keep your tank lit for ten hours a day in order to avoid rapid algae growth.
Now that you have your setup, you can go ahead and add your coral and fish, and enjoy your reef tank!
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
And your fish will need room to swim and to grow. If you get a small tank you will have small fish that aren't happy because they have no room. This may lead to aggression between your fish and that doesn't make for a good situation at all.
Once you have decided on your tank size, you will need to consider your filtration system, which is where bacteria live. You want bacteria because it breaks down waste. While you can go with mechanical filters, you could instead use a sand bed to mimic how it works in the ocean. This will cost less and work better, so it's a wise choice. Use three to four inches of a fine sand grain and then top it off with one to two inches of heavier sand to keep the lighter sand down.
Next are your rock formations. You will want to start off with figi because of its combination of shape and price, then you can select other rocks based on aesthetics. Between the sand bed and the rock formations, you will actually have created a natural filtration system which all of the critters you place in your tank will like and so will the bacteria you need.
Note that if you are starting with a new tank, you want uncured rock to help cycle your tank, but if adding to an established tank, make sure you used cured rock, so that your cycle is not interfered with.
The next thing to consider is your overflow system including your water pump, sump, and return tubing. You want to use an overflow box set, and a mag drive is a quality pump choice and you can use a tote for the sump. For the tubing you can just use PVC pipe, it's effective.
You need to have a water conditioning system to keep the water fresh for your livestock and to help prevent algae. The right ingredients include a protein skimmer, an RO TFC water filter, and an RO float valve kit.
Your lighting system is also important. You want a mix of two kinds of bulb: 10,000K white and 460 Actinic (blue) bulbs, and put them on a timer because you only want to keep your tank lit for ten hours a day in order to avoid rapid algae growth.
Now that you have your setup, you can go ahead and add your coral and fish, and enjoy your reef tank!
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Why Freshwater Aquarium?
By Logan Heckendorn
Choosing pets, people often omit the possibility of keeping a freshwater aquarium and settle on more common pets like cats, dogs or ant colonies. If you are in a similar phase of wondering now too, let me add another option to your ration and introduce freshwater aquariums.
The first thing my guests would usually notice is... the mess in my room. The second, of course, is my freshwater aquarium. They don't always say that but I can see it in their facial expressions. Often they actually express their interest verbally. Freshwater aquarium looks really great, especially in dark. People notice that. They boast your aquarium. They brag your place. It adds enormously to the interior. Here is the first great thing about the freshwater aquarium.
The second great thing, is, of course, the care. What do you do when you are angry? You go and observe the fish! I guess that wasn't your answer. What do you do when you are even more angry? You go feed the fish... I mean, have you ever considered the possibility that keeping fish can actually be a fun thing? Well, it is. The fish look really great (just look at the bettas, for example). Caring for the fish is probably more than a hobby.
But is it? Here is the third thing about freshwater aquariums - possible lack of care. You can give it hours and hours of time and it gladly takes it. But what if you're just not feeling like that... what if you're into having a holiday? No problem! Here is the thing. People have the idea that it takes an incredible amount of time to care for an aquarium. And while it can (and it should), it doesn't have to!
What do the minimum work requirements of maintain of a freshwater aquarium consist of? Feeding the fish which can be done very fast, occasionally changing the water which is again not so hard and key word here is occasionally and ensuring the temperature is good which is, so to say, not the hardest thing at all.
Let me mention the advantages of having a freshwater aquarium again - admiration of others, great pastime and interesting activity. Of course, that doesn't say it all. There is a lot more to freshwater aquarium but such a small article cannot have it all. In any case, should you be needing a pet, roll this thought in your head too, at least for a moment: "I could get a freshwater aquarium
Choosing pets, people often omit the possibility of keeping a freshwater aquarium and settle on more common pets like cats, dogs or ant colonies. If you are in a similar phase of wondering now too, let me add another option to your ration and introduce freshwater aquariums.
The first thing my guests would usually notice is... the mess in my room. The second, of course, is my freshwater aquarium. They don't always say that but I can see it in their facial expressions. Often they actually express their interest verbally. Freshwater aquarium looks really great, especially in dark. People notice that. They boast your aquarium. They brag your place. It adds enormously to the interior. Here is the first great thing about the freshwater aquarium.
The second great thing, is, of course, the care. What do you do when you are angry? You go and observe the fish! I guess that wasn't your answer. What do you do when you are even more angry? You go feed the fish... I mean, have you ever considered the possibility that keeping fish can actually be a fun thing? Well, it is. The fish look really great (just look at the bettas, for example). Caring for the fish is probably more than a hobby.
But is it? Here is the third thing about freshwater aquariums - possible lack of care. You can give it hours and hours of time and it gladly takes it. But what if you're just not feeling like that... what if you're into having a holiday? No problem! Here is the thing. People have the idea that it takes an incredible amount of time to care for an aquarium. And while it can (and it should), it doesn't have to!
What do the minimum work requirements of maintain of a freshwater aquarium consist of? Feeding the fish which can be done very fast, occasionally changing the water which is again not so hard and key word here is occasionally and ensuring the temperature is good which is, so to say, not the hardest thing at all.
Let me mention the advantages of having a freshwater aquarium again - admiration of others, great pastime and interesting activity. Of course, that doesn't say it all. There is a lot more to freshwater aquarium but such a small article cannot have it all. In any case, should you be needing a pet, roll this thought in your head too, at least for a moment: "I could get a freshwater aquarium
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