By Kathy Ferneau
When we hear the term "life support," we conjure up images of Mission Control at Houston maintaining the environment for astronauts in outer space.
Yet the correlation is very close indeed. The marine life inside of an acrylic aquarium must have its life artificially supported by the aquarium designer. Science and art intermingle in a very delicate balancing act.
The aquarium exudes serenity and beauty from the public viewing angles, but behind the scenes a complex assortment of high-tech equipment pumps, filters, and monitors. The importance of a fail-safe system cannot be overemphasized.
Life support systems maintain a very delicate balance of biological, mechanical, and chemical filtration systems.
Acrylic aquarium designers maintain their own philosophies for life support systems, but must give careful thought to optimum water life environment, initial cost and continued maintenance costs, noise of operating system, and ease of maintenance.
The initial layout of the life support system begins with the initial design of the aquarium itself. Critical elements include...
1) Dimensions of the aquarium.
2) Where the aquarium and the life support system will be located.
3) Operating budget.
4) A myriad of other details regarding the actual space where the aquarium will be located.
Aquarium life support systems are usually self-contained within the piece itself, but they can be located in another room in the case of a very large display. Aquarium life support systems can be closed or open, and a particular aquarium may have both types, with an open system functioning within a closed system. Both types turn over the environment four times per hour. Both types of systems provide filtration, with a closed system providing additional filtering.
Biological
These factors will include chilling and heating components to maintain proper water temperature. Care must be taken to insure biological filters are customized for bacteria colonies specific to the environment of the aquarium. This takes time to achieve and should not be rushed.
Mechanical
Properly functioning filters and pumping systems must be in place at all times. Backup systems for power outages or surges must be figured into the setup as well.
Chemical filtration
This factor includes eliminating fish waste products on a consistent basis. Any concentration of nitrates proves deadly to fish.
Some of the components include...
Protein skimmer - These improve water clarity and quality by removing organic matter.
Mechanical filter
Chemical filter
UV sterilizer
Chillers and heaters
Wet/dry bio reactor
Life support systems are designed with a computer layout first with considerations for utility access and maintenance taken into consideration.
Installation of the life support system occurs when the piece itself is installed at the site. The system and the aquarium are equal partners in the overall entire aquarium display.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out here... http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Goldfish Breeding, Part 1
By Peter Ponzio
Each year, as the days grow longer in the springtime, mature goldfish begin the process of producing eggs in the females, and milt in the males. Many of these changes are triggered by increasing daylight and warmer water temperatures. The availability of increased food production in the form of bloodworm and gnat larvae, if the goldfish live outdoors, adds to the changes in the fish.
The changes which occur in goldfish include a general swelling in the female, as eggs begin to develop, and the appearance of tiny bumps, or "tubercles," on the leading edges of the pectoral fins, and on the gill covers in males.
In warmer climates, goldfish may begin spawning outdoors at the end of April, but in most other areas, goldfish begin spawning in May or June. In many cases, fish spawn without any apparent indications, especially if fish are kept in a pond, and in a mixed population. For fish kept in aquaria, the signs are present if the fish are closely observed.
Spawning will take place early in the morning, usually just before sunrise. Spawning activity seems to be triggered by several factors, including: rainfall on the days preceding spawning; a drop in water temperature of a few degrees; partial water changes; and a full or nearly-full moon.
Spawning will generally last several hours, and thousands to tens of thousands of eggs will be laid, depending on the size of the female. Eggs are generally quite small, round, and sticky. Please see the following picture of eggs taken in an indoor aquarium, to get an idea of the size and shape.Please remove adult fish after a spawn, if you wish to raise the babies. Adult fish will eat eggs (and fry) after a spawn. Baby fish, once recognized, will not be eaten by mature goldfish. Fish generally recognize babies once they reach �" to 1" in size.
Eggs will generally hatch in from 4 - 7 days, depending on the water temperature. The fry are quite small at the time of hatching, and feed for the first 3 -5 days on the attached yolk sac. Upon hatching, and for a period of approximately two weeks after hatching, fry will stay attached to the surface on which the eggs were laid, or near the surface of the water. As their swim bladder begins to function, the fry will begin swimming at various levels of the aquarium.
After the fry have depleted their yolk sacs, you should begin to feed them food. Early foods can include the following: newly hatched brine shrimp; boiled egg yolk; and infusorians. For folks that have an outdoor pond, feeding can supplement food that the fry will find in the pond. For people who have fish housed in an aquarium, food will have to be supplied by the owner.
After a few weeks, crumbled flake foods, small fry food, crumbled freeze-dried blood worms, daphnia, and brine shrimp can be fed to the fish. During the phase of early development, feed the fish several times a day (perhaps 3 - 5 times daily) in small quantities. It is important to carefully monitor water quality and to make periodic water changes, as some foods (especially egg yolk) can foul the water.
Metallic fish will begin to de-color, that is change from the wild green color, at 2 - 3 months old. For nacreous and matte fish, colors will tend to deepen as the fish mature. More nacreous and Matte fish start out with a mottled white coloration, with reds, blacks, oranges and blues developing as the fish age.
If you are raising fry for breeding or show purposes, you will need to select fry that meet characteristics which you have established in your breeding program. Fry with deformities such as missing fins, tripod tails (in the case of the double tail varieties), and other physical defects can be given away or disposed of beginning at 6 - 7 weeks. The practice of selecting fish with certain characteristics is known as "culling."
A second culling can occur at 8 - 10 weeks, and will concentrate on coloration and conformity to bred standards. A 3rd culling can be done a 3 months, at which time most fish will begin to exhibit special breed characteristics, such as head growth, eye development, and pearl scales. It is not unusual for only 5 - 10% of a spawn to remain after the third culling. While some people object to the thought of giving away fish, or culling a spawn, goldfish will not thrive in over crowded conditions. The practice of reducing the population size is necessary for goldfish development and quality.
As fish approach 2 - 3 months in age, attempt to feed a larger percentage of live, frozen, or freeze dried food. Increased protein content in the food is required for the development of head growth and pearl scales in particular. Avoid feeding floating foods, which, while good for koi, and not very helpful for goldfish, particularly the full-bodied double tail fish. Continued feeding of floating food will cause the goldfish to ingest large quantities of air, and may upset the fishes' equilibrium. Sinking pellet or granulated food can be fed at 2 -3 months as a supplement to live or frozen food.
For those interested in making their own food, several goldfish food recipes are available, both online, and from GFSA (Goldfish Society of America) articles. Books such as The Goldfish Guide by Matsui also have homemade recipes included.
A final cull can be accomplished at six months, which would be performed to select fish to grow out and over-winter. This selection would be based on a combination of conformance with standard guidelines, color and overall confirmation. By the end of the 4th cull, it is likely that only 1 - 2% of the spawn will remain, and that the fish selected will be exceptional.
Author Biography
Peter Ponzio, the author of Children of the Night, is a CPA with over 30 years experience in Corporate Finance, holding positions as divergent as Treasurer, VP of Sales Administration, Vice President of IT, and General Manager of an internet start-up company in the late 1990s, and CFO at a subsidiary of a Fortune 100 company.
Mr. Ponzio graduated with a degree in English literature from Loyola University of Chicago, and is currently attending Northwestern University in pursuit of an MA in Literature.
Peter's website can be reached at http://www.peterjponzio.com
Each year, as the days grow longer in the springtime, mature goldfish begin the process of producing eggs in the females, and milt in the males. Many of these changes are triggered by increasing daylight and warmer water temperatures. The availability of increased food production in the form of bloodworm and gnat larvae, if the goldfish live outdoors, adds to the changes in the fish.
The changes which occur in goldfish include a general swelling in the female, as eggs begin to develop, and the appearance of tiny bumps, or "tubercles," on the leading edges of the pectoral fins, and on the gill covers in males.
In warmer climates, goldfish may begin spawning outdoors at the end of April, but in most other areas, goldfish begin spawning in May or June. In many cases, fish spawn without any apparent indications, especially if fish are kept in a pond, and in a mixed population. For fish kept in aquaria, the signs are present if the fish are closely observed.
Spawning will take place early in the morning, usually just before sunrise. Spawning activity seems to be triggered by several factors, including: rainfall on the days preceding spawning; a drop in water temperature of a few degrees; partial water changes; and a full or nearly-full moon.
Spawning will generally last several hours, and thousands to tens of thousands of eggs will be laid, depending on the size of the female. Eggs are generally quite small, round, and sticky. Please see the following picture of eggs taken in an indoor aquarium, to get an idea of the size and shape.Please remove adult fish after a spawn, if you wish to raise the babies. Adult fish will eat eggs (and fry) after a spawn. Baby fish, once recognized, will not be eaten by mature goldfish. Fish generally recognize babies once they reach �" to 1" in size.
Eggs will generally hatch in from 4 - 7 days, depending on the water temperature. The fry are quite small at the time of hatching, and feed for the first 3 -5 days on the attached yolk sac. Upon hatching, and for a period of approximately two weeks after hatching, fry will stay attached to the surface on which the eggs were laid, or near the surface of the water. As their swim bladder begins to function, the fry will begin swimming at various levels of the aquarium.
After the fry have depleted their yolk sacs, you should begin to feed them food. Early foods can include the following: newly hatched brine shrimp; boiled egg yolk; and infusorians. For folks that have an outdoor pond, feeding can supplement food that the fry will find in the pond. For people who have fish housed in an aquarium, food will have to be supplied by the owner.
After a few weeks, crumbled flake foods, small fry food, crumbled freeze-dried blood worms, daphnia, and brine shrimp can be fed to the fish. During the phase of early development, feed the fish several times a day (perhaps 3 - 5 times daily) in small quantities. It is important to carefully monitor water quality and to make periodic water changes, as some foods (especially egg yolk) can foul the water.
Metallic fish will begin to de-color, that is change from the wild green color, at 2 - 3 months old. For nacreous and matte fish, colors will tend to deepen as the fish mature. More nacreous and Matte fish start out with a mottled white coloration, with reds, blacks, oranges and blues developing as the fish age.
If you are raising fry for breeding or show purposes, you will need to select fry that meet characteristics which you have established in your breeding program. Fry with deformities such as missing fins, tripod tails (in the case of the double tail varieties), and other physical defects can be given away or disposed of beginning at 6 - 7 weeks. The practice of selecting fish with certain characteristics is known as "culling."
A second culling can occur at 8 - 10 weeks, and will concentrate on coloration and conformity to bred standards. A 3rd culling can be done a 3 months, at which time most fish will begin to exhibit special breed characteristics, such as head growth, eye development, and pearl scales. It is not unusual for only 5 - 10% of a spawn to remain after the third culling. While some people object to the thought of giving away fish, or culling a spawn, goldfish will not thrive in over crowded conditions. The practice of reducing the population size is necessary for goldfish development and quality.
As fish approach 2 - 3 months in age, attempt to feed a larger percentage of live, frozen, or freeze dried food. Increased protein content in the food is required for the development of head growth and pearl scales in particular. Avoid feeding floating foods, which, while good for koi, and not very helpful for goldfish, particularly the full-bodied double tail fish. Continued feeding of floating food will cause the goldfish to ingest large quantities of air, and may upset the fishes' equilibrium. Sinking pellet or granulated food can be fed at 2 -3 months as a supplement to live or frozen food.
For those interested in making their own food, several goldfish food recipes are available, both online, and from GFSA (Goldfish Society of America) articles. Books such as The Goldfish Guide by Matsui also have homemade recipes included.
A final cull can be accomplished at six months, which would be performed to select fish to grow out and over-winter. This selection would be based on a combination of conformance with standard guidelines, color and overall confirmation. By the end of the 4th cull, it is likely that only 1 - 2% of the spawn will remain, and that the fish selected will be exceptional.
Author Biography
Peter Ponzio, the author of Children of the Night, is a CPA with over 30 years experience in Corporate Finance, holding positions as divergent as Treasurer, VP of Sales Administration, Vice President of IT, and General Manager of an internet start-up company in the late 1990s, and CFO at a subsidiary of a Fortune 100 company.
Mr. Ponzio graduated with a degree in English literature from Loyola University of Chicago, and is currently attending Northwestern University in pursuit of an MA in Literature.
Peter's website can be reached at http://www.peterjponzio.com
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Algae And The Reef Aquarium
By John W Fletcher
One of the most common reasons why people leave the marine aquarium hobby is due to nuisance algae. There is no doubt that it can become a real heart breaker after spending so much time and effort at this hobby only to be defeated by such a small organism as algae.
Just about everyone who has ever set up a marine tank has to deal with nuisance algae at one time or another. Typically it will start showing up near the end of your tanks cycle, about 3 to 5 weeks after your setup. Some of the time it will go away on its own, in a few weeks, as your aquarium has a chance to stabilize. Even if the algae do disappear, there is always a chance it could return.
What are algae?
Essentially, they are organisms that produce their own food by a process called photosynthesis. There are many forms that can range from kelp to caulaerpa to those brown dots growing on the panels of glass in your aquarium. For this discussion we will concentrate on just the nuisance algae.
Some of the more crucial factors that affect algae growth in your reef aquarium are light, water flow, nutrient concentrations, and competition for those nutrients.
Of all these factors, light has the greatest impact. A typical coral reef in the wild has very high light intensity. One way to kill it is to deprive it of light. In your reef, the quantity, spectrum, and duration of your lights all influence not only what types of algae are present, but also, the abundance.
The age of the bulbs in your lighting system has a direct effect on the kinds of algae that can grow in your tank. Older bulbs do not burn with the same intensity or spectrum that they did when they were new. Because of this they can become a source for problem algae growth. They need to be replaced at regular intervals. You should research the type of bulb you are using and how long they will last before replacements are needed. You should really document when you buy the bulbs so that you know when they need replacing.
Water flow or should I say the lack of it, throughout your aquarium can also have an impact. Advances in the design of power heads have come a long way in resent years. The kind of flow coming out of them is a lot better now. An upgrade might be just what you need.
The level of nutrient concentrations also has a big impact on populations. Many types of hair and slime algae will start growing in response to excess nutrients, especially nitrates and phosphates. Regular water changes go a long way to directly reducing the amount of nutrients in your system. Good phosphate removing compounds are readily available at the local fish store. Some people run them in a reactor all the time.
Finally we come to nutrient competition. Many people grow Macro algae in their sump in an attempt to out compete the nuisance algae. Chaeto is a great macro for this job. It is fast growing and will use up plenty of nutrients. This works very well in a lot of cases.
I hope this short discussion has been of benefit to you. http://www.reefbasics.com
One of the most common reasons why people leave the marine aquarium hobby is due to nuisance algae. There is no doubt that it can become a real heart breaker after spending so much time and effort at this hobby only to be defeated by such a small organism as algae.
Just about everyone who has ever set up a marine tank has to deal with nuisance algae at one time or another. Typically it will start showing up near the end of your tanks cycle, about 3 to 5 weeks after your setup. Some of the time it will go away on its own, in a few weeks, as your aquarium has a chance to stabilize. Even if the algae do disappear, there is always a chance it could return.
What are algae?
Essentially, they are organisms that produce their own food by a process called photosynthesis. There are many forms that can range from kelp to caulaerpa to those brown dots growing on the panels of glass in your aquarium. For this discussion we will concentrate on just the nuisance algae.
Some of the more crucial factors that affect algae growth in your reef aquarium are light, water flow, nutrient concentrations, and competition for those nutrients.
Of all these factors, light has the greatest impact. A typical coral reef in the wild has very high light intensity. One way to kill it is to deprive it of light. In your reef, the quantity, spectrum, and duration of your lights all influence not only what types of algae are present, but also, the abundance.
The age of the bulbs in your lighting system has a direct effect on the kinds of algae that can grow in your tank. Older bulbs do not burn with the same intensity or spectrum that they did when they were new. Because of this they can become a source for problem algae growth. They need to be replaced at regular intervals. You should research the type of bulb you are using and how long they will last before replacements are needed. You should really document when you buy the bulbs so that you know when they need replacing.
Water flow or should I say the lack of it, throughout your aquarium can also have an impact. Advances in the design of power heads have come a long way in resent years. The kind of flow coming out of them is a lot better now. An upgrade might be just what you need.
The level of nutrient concentrations also has a big impact on populations. Many types of hair and slime algae will start growing in response to excess nutrients, especially nitrates and phosphates. Regular water changes go a long way to directly reducing the amount of nutrients in your system. Good phosphate removing compounds are readily available at the local fish store. Some people run them in a reactor all the time.
Finally we come to nutrient competition. Many people grow Macro algae in their sump in an attempt to out compete the nuisance algae. Chaeto is a great macro for this job. It is fast growing and will use up plenty of nutrients. This works very well in a lot of cases.
I hope this short discussion has been of benefit to you. http://www.reefbasics.com
Friday, January 25, 2008
Acrylic Aquarium Structure
By Kathy Ferneau
That lovely acrylic aquarium weighs a lot--about 10 pounds per gallon of material, so it definitely needs a structure to support it.
Creativity can be applied to structural supports as freely as for the aquarium itself.
The structural support itself should be...
1) Solid. Avoid individual legs as these tend to be weaker.
2) Even. The surface on which the aquarium sits should be even; using a level to gauge this is vital.
3) Wide enough to spread out the weight. Make sure the structure spreads out the weight of the aquarium and is not too tall.
Steel supports are a good idea for very heavy aquariums. The steel beams are usually powder coated to resist corrosion from humidity.
The structural support is often a wood cabinet. Many types of woods, finishes, decorative carving and metal fixtures can be applied.
Believe it or not, fish will sometimes try to jump out of an aquarium, especially if they are stressed, so the canopy will prevent them from floundering on the floor.
An acrylic aquarium canopy or hood is a finishing touch on the aquarium. You want to see the beautiful aquarium and aquatic life, not the wires and filters that keep it running! This additional part of the cabinetry hides the components of the tank, yet provides easy access to it for cleaning and maintenance.
The aquarium canopy also keeps out dust, debris, and flying insects, and reduces evaporation.
Canopy considerations include...
1) Type of lighting. Hotter light sources need a taller canopy to allow heat disbursement.
2) Fan holes. Holes are cut into the canopy in the back to allow for ventilation. Placement of these holes for aesthetic reasons is necessary.
The finishing touches for your aquarium include decorations for the inside and outside of the tank. You can have...
1) Picture frames
2) Driftwood
3) Ships and other sea-going vessels
4) Underwater castles, volcanoes and mermaids
5) Artificial plant life
Decorations outside the aquarium as part of the structure can be wood carvings and inset photos or other images.
A prime consideration, of course, is that anything that goes into the aquarium is not toxic to your fish.
Be careful that nothing you put in the aquarium contains metal that will rust.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out here... http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
That lovely acrylic aquarium weighs a lot--about 10 pounds per gallon of material, so it definitely needs a structure to support it.
Creativity can be applied to structural supports as freely as for the aquarium itself.
The structural support itself should be...
1) Solid. Avoid individual legs as these tend to be weaker.
2) Even. The surface on which the aquarium sits should be even; using a level to gauge this is vital.
3) Wide enough to spread out the weight. Make sure the structure spreads out the weight of the aquarium and is not too tall.
Steel supports are a good idea for very heavy aquariums. The steel beams are usually powder coated to resist corrosion from humidity.
The structural support is often a wood cabinet. Many types of woods, finishes, decorative carving and metal fixtures can be applied.
Believe it or not, fish will sometimes try to jump out of an aquarium, especially if they are stressed, so the canopy will prevent them from floundering on the floor.
An acrylic aquarium canopy or hood is a finishing touch on the aquarium. You want to see the beautiful aquarium and aquatic life, not the wires and filters that keep it running! This additional part of the cabinetry hides the components of the tank, yet provides easy access to it for cleaning and maintenance.
The aquarium canopy also keeps out dust, debris, and flying insects, and reduces evaporation.
Canopy considerations include...
1) Type of lighting. Hotter light sources need a taller canopy to allow heat disbursement.
2) Fan holes. Holes are cut into the canopy in the back to allow for ventilation. Placement of these holes for aesthetic reasons is necessary.
The finishing touches for your aquarium include decorations for the inside and outside of the tank. You can have...
1) Picture frames
2) Driftwood
3) Ships and other sea-going vessels
4) Underwater castles, volcanoes and mermaids
5) Artificial plant life
Decorations outside the aquarium as part of the structure can be wood carvings and inset photos or other images.
A prime consideration, of course, is that anything that goes into the aquarium is not toxic to your fish.
Be careful that nothing you put in the aquarium contains metal that will rust.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out here... http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Betta Fish Care - Out Of Many Betta Fish Books I Recomend Betta Fish Secrets
By Daniel Jonson
The Betta is Colorful, elegant and incredibly beautiful. But before you buy one though there are some things you must know. If you already have them, I am sure you know that they are sensitive and need the right treatment.
I have had Betta fishes for many years and I can tell you that they are much easier to take care of then people think, but you need to do right from the start for your fish happiness and health.
If you are about to buy Betta fish, or already have but want to know how to keep your fish happier and always know what to do, I would like to recommend you to read a book called Betta fish secrets, it is quite cheep at $17 dollars.
The reason I recommend the Betta fish secrets is that the things in the book is very important. The author have been testing different techniques from all types of books and made his own book based on the things that is the most important and works well. All the things you need to know about your fish. Things like:
How to pick the right ones in the shop.
What size of fish you should buy.
How to pick the ideal size for your fish tank.
A 6 step system for setting up your new aquarium.
How to give your fish the right water that it will be happy in.
The advantages and disadvantages of putting plants in the tank.
What fish you can put with your Betta in the same tank.
And a lot more.
Betta fish secrets has all the information that you need to keep your fish healthy and happy. They are sensitive and it is very sad when accidents happen. Its best to avoid that by knowing what to do.
More detailed information and the actual book can be found trough this target=_new betta fish care blog, Where you also can get tips and info about Betta fish. You can go there now with the following link: target=_new http://bettafishcarefaq.wordpress.com/
The Betta is Colorful, elegant and incredibly beautiful. But before you buy one though there are some things you must know. If you already have them, I am sure you know that they are sensitive and need the right treatment.
I have had Betta fishes for many years and I can tell you that they are much easier to take care of then people think, but you need to do right from the start for your fish happiness and health.
If you are about to buy Betta fish, or already have but want to know how to keep your fish happier and always know what to do, I would like to recommend you to read a book called Betta fish secrets, it is quite cheep at $17 dollars.
The reason I recommend the Betta fish secrets is that the things in the book is very important. The author have been testing different techniques from all types of books and made his own book based on the things that is the most important and works well. All the things you need to know about your fish. Things like:
How to pick the right ones in the shop.
What size of fish you should buy.
How to pick the ideal size for your fish tank.
A 6 step system for setting up your new aquarium.
How to give your fish the right water that it will be happy in.
The advantages and disadvantages of putting plants in the tank.
What fish you can put with your Betta in the same tank.
And a lot more.
Betta fish secrets has all the information that you need to keep your fish healthy and happy. They are sensitive and it is very sad when accidents happen. Its best to avoid that by knowing what to do.
More detailed information and the actual book can be found trough this target=_new betta fish care blog, Where you also can get tips and info about Betta fish. You can go there now with the following link: target=_new http://bettafishcarefaq.wordpress.com/
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
The Red Cherry Shrimp - Neocaridina Heteropoda
By Ryan Wood
The Red Cherry Shrimp is undoubtedly the most popular shrimp in the hobby due to the relatively easy ability to breed as well as their ability to live in many different water parameters. Most shrimp hobbyists start out with this species because of it easy requirements and to also learn about dwarf shrimp in general before moving on to the more difficult species. I highly recommend that any newcomer to shrimp keeping use this shrimp as a starter. This shrimp will teach you a lot, and mistakes causing shrimp deaths can be overcome due to their ability to readily breed. You also don't want to make a mistake with another more expensive species.
I have had Red Cherry Shrimp for a long time and have really enjoyed them. I keep them in a 10 gallon planted tank along with Tiger Shrimp being the only other inhabitants.
The temperature is 80�F and the PH is 6.0-6.1. The water is very soft as well.
I feed them mainly Hikari Algae Wafers and the occasional homemade shrimp cookies from other users. They eat very well and will often "fight" when one interferes with anyone when it is eating. It is fun to watch them eat; they all just pile on top of each other.
Breeding them in very simple: Change the water 25% every week, don't overfeed, and of course don't keep them in a tank with inhabitants that could eat the babies. Please don't forget, shrimps in the wild are a natural food source for almost all fish. It is like seeing a hamburger, you are gonna eat it (replace hamburger with another food you like).
Good luck with these shrimp, they are a lot of fun to keep.
More info: http://www.planetinverts.com/Red%20Cherry%20Shrimp.html
By: Ryan Wood http://www.planetinverts.com http://www.planetinverts.com/store
The Red Cherry Shrimp is undoubtedly the most popular shrimp in the hobby due to the relatively easy ability to breed as well as their ability to live in many different water parameters. Most shrimp hobbyists start out with this species because of it easy requirements and to also learn about dwarf shrimp in general before moving on to the more difficult species. I highly recommend that any newcomer to shrimp keeping use this shrimp as a starter. This shrimp will teach you a lot, and mistakes causing shrimp deaths can be overcome due to their ability to readily breed. You also don't want to make a mistake with another more expensive species.
I have had Red Cherry Shrimp for a long time and have really enjoyed them. I keep them in a 10 gallon planted tank along with Tiger Shrimp being the only other inhabitants.
The temperature is 80�F and the PH is 6.0-6.1. The water is very soft as well.
I feed them mainly Hikari Algae Wafers and the occasional homemade shrimp cookies from other users. They eat very well and will often "fight" when one interferes with anyone when it is eating. It is fun to watch them eat; they all just pile on top of each other.
Breeding them in very simple: Change the water 25% every week, don't overfeed, and of course don't keep them in a tank with inhabitants that could eat the babies. Please don't forget, shrimps in the wild are a natural food source for almost all fish. It is like seeing a hamburger, you are gonna eat it (replace hamburger with another food you like).
Good luck with these shrimp, they are a lot of fun to keep.
More info: http://www.planetinverts.com/Red%20Cherry%20Shrimp.html
By: Ryan Wood http://www.planetinverts.com http://www.planetinverts.com/store
Friday, January 11, 2008
Acrylic Aquarium - Hobby and Art
By Kathy Ferneau
If you haven't seen an acrylic aquarium, you're in for a pleasant surprise! These aren't your grandma's goldfish bowls! Get ready for breathtaking displays of art and craftsmanship.
No longer restricted to major aquariums hosting exotic sea life, acrylic aquariums are the must-have art pieces for everything from Las Vegas casinos, Beverly Hills hotels, the Statue of Liberty, and, of course, posh private homes.
Why Acrylic? Typically we think of glass for aquariums, but acrylic has quickly become the material of choice for aquariums.
Let's look at the benefits of acrylic materials...
1) Lighter - Acrylic aquariums are about half as light as glass structures, making them easier to move and assemble.
2) Stronger - Acrylic is up to 17 times as strong as glass, particularly in larger aquariums.
3) Clearer - Acrylic allows more light to pass through it with less distortion.
4) More Flexible - Curved surfaces are possible, with nearly unlimited shapes and sizes. Since acrylic has "give" to it, it will not shatter or explode like glass would.
5) Seamless - Acrylic can be bonded to itself to create an invisible connection. Without the need for ugly seams, greater creativity in sculpting the actual aquarium.
6) Insulating - Acrylic protects the animals and plants against outside temperature fluctuation because it doesn't convey heat and cold like glass does. In the event of a power outage, the aquarium would hold its heat longer than one made from glass.
7) Safer - Acrylic won't shatter or crack. Acrylic can be scratched, but these are easily repaired with repair kits sold in aquarium supply stores and on-line.
8) Acrylic is "machinable," meaning that it can be drilled or routed, unlike glass.
9) Acrylic is easier to ship and position at the final site.
But nothing is perfect, so on the down side, acrylics have a higher initial cost, about two to three times the price of glass. It has a greater tendency to develop scratches, although these can be repaired, and glass can certainly be scratched as well. Acrylics have the risks of yellowing over time, but new UV stabilizers resist yellowing. Finally, acrylic structures need increased support because acrylic tanks will bow under pressure, while glass will not.
All things considered, there is a strong case for acrylic aquariums. If you're a beginning hobbyist, glass is still the way to go, but for larger art pieces, commercial office spaces, restaurants, doctors' offices, and huge public spaces, acrylics are here to stay.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out at http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
If you haven't seen an acrylic aquarium, you're in for a pleasant surprise! These aren't your grandma's goldfish bowls! Get ready for breathtaking displays of art and craftsmanship.
No longer restricted to major aquariums hosting exotic sea life, acrylic aquariums are the must-have art pieces for everything from Las Vegas casinos, Beverly Hills hotels, the Statue of Liberty, and, of course, posh private homes.
Why Acrylic? Typically we think of glass for aquariums, but acrylic has quickly become the material of choice for aquariums.
Let's look at the benefits of acrylic materials...
1) Lighter - Acrylic aquariums are about half as light as glass structures, making them easier to move and assemble.
2) Stronger - Acrylic is up to 17 times as strong as glass, particularly in larger aquariums.
3) Clearer - Acrylic allows more light to pass through it with less distortion.
4) More Flexible - Curved surfaces are possible, with nearly unlimited shapes and sizes. Since acrylic has "give" to it, it will not shatter or explode like glass would.
5) Seamless - Acrylic can be bonded to itself to create an invisible connection. Without the need for ugly seams, greater creativity in sculpting the actual aquarium.
6) Insulating - Acrylic protects the animals and plants against outside temperature fluctuation because it doesn't convey heat and cold like glass does. In the event of a power outage, the aquarium would hold its heat longer than one made from glass.
7) Safer - Acrylic won't shatter or crack. Acrylic can be scratched, but these are easily repaired with repair kits sold in aquarium supply stores and on-line.
8) Acrylic is "machinable," meaning that it can be drilled or routed, unlike glass.
9) Acrylic is easier to ship and position at the final site.
But nothing is perfect, so on the down side, acrylics have a higher initial cost, about two to three times the price of glass. It has a greater tendency to develop scratches, although these can be repaired, and glass can certainly be scratched as well. Acrylics have the risks of yellowing over time, but new UV stabilizers resist yellowing. Finally, acrylic structures need increased support because acrylic tanks will bow under pressure, while glass will not.
All things considered, there is a strong case for acrylic aquariums. If you're a beginning hobbyist, glass is still the way to go, but for larger art pieces, commercial office spaces, restaurants, doctors' offices, and huge public spaces, acrylics are here to stay.
What's the key to the perfect aquarium? Find out at http://aquarium-guide-online.blogspot.com/
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
Items Needed for a Successful Reef
By Richard Gilliland
And your fish will need room to swim and to grow. If you get a small tank you will have small fish that aren't happy because they have no room. This may lead to aggression between your fish and that doesn't make for a good situation at all.
Once you have decided on your tank size, you will need to consider your filtration system, which is where bacteria live. You want bacteria because it breaks down waste. While you can go with mechanical filters, you could instead use a sand bed to mimic how it works in the ocean. This will cost less and work better, so it's a wise choice. Use three to four inches of a fine sand grain and then top it off with one to two inches of heavier sand to keep the lighter sand down.
Next are your rock formations. You will want to start off with figi because of its combination of shape and price, then you can select other rocks based on aesthetics. Between the sand bed and the rock formations, you will actually have created a natural filtration system which all of the critters you place in your tank will like and so will the bacteria you need.
Note that if you are starting with a new tank, you want uncured rock to help cycle your tank, but if adding to an established tank, make sure you used cured rock, so that your cycle is not interfered with.
The next thing to consider is your overflow system including your water pump, sump, and return tubing. You want to use an overflow box set, and a mag drive is a quality pump choice and you can use a tote for the sump. For the tubing you can just use PVC pipe, it's effective.
You need to have a water conditioning system to keep the water fresh for your livestock and to help prevent algae. The right ingredients include a protein skimmer, an RO TFC water filter, and an RO float valve kit.
Your lighting system is also important. You want a mix of two kinds of bulb: 10,000K white and 460 Actinic (blue) bulbs, and put them on a timer because you only want to keep your tank lit for ten hours a day in order to avoid rapid algae growth.
Now that you have your setup, you can go ahead and add your coral and fish, and enjoy your reef tank!
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
And your fish will need room to swim and to grow. If you get a small tank you will have small fish that aren't happy because they have no room. This may lead to aggression between your fish and that doesn't make for a good situation at all.
Once you have decided on your tank size, you will need to consider your filtration system, which is where bacteria live. You want bacteria because it breaks down waste. While you can go with mechanical filters, you could instead use a sand bed to mimic how it works in the ocean. This will cost less and work better, so it's a wise choice. Use three to four inches of a fine sand grain and then top it off with one to two inches of heavier sand to keep the lighter sand down.
Next are your rock formations. You will want to start off with figi because of its combination of shape and price, then you can select other rocks based on aesthetics. Between the sand bed and the rock formations, you will actually have created a natural filtration system which all of the critters you place in your tank will like and so will the bacteria you need.
Note that if you are starting with a new tank, you want uncured rock to help cycle your tank, but if adding to an established tank, make sure you used cured rock, so that your cycle is not interfered with.
The next thing to consider is your overflow system including your water pump, sump, and return tubing. You want to use an overflow box set, and a mag drive is a quality pump choice and you can use a tote for the sump. For the tubing you can just use PVC pipe, it's effective.
You need to have a water conditioning system to keep the water fresh for your livestock and to help prevent algae. The right ingredients include a protein skimmer, an RO TFC water filter, and an RO float valve kit.
Your lighting system is also important. You want a mix of two kinds of bulb: 10,000K white and 460 Actinic (blue) bulbs, and put them on a timer because you only want to keep your tank lit for ten hours a day in order to avoid rapid algae growth.
Now that you have your setup, you can go ahead and add your coral and fish, and enjoy your reef tank!
SaltySupply.com offers the most premium aquarium supplies on the net. We offer protein skimmers, powerheads, pumps and more for your saltwater aquarium.
Thursday, January 3, 2008
Why Freshwater Aquarium?
By Logan Heckendorn
Choosing pets, people often omit the possibility of keeping a freshwater aquarium and settle on more common pets like cats, dogs or ant colonies. If you are in a similar phase of wondering now too, let me add another option to your ration and introduce freshwater aquariums.
The first thing my guests would usually notice is... the mess in my room. The second, of course, is my freshwater aquarium. They don't always say that but I can see it in their facial expressions. Often they actually express their interest verbally. Freshwater aquarium looks really great, especially in dark. People notice that. They boast your aquarium. They brag your place. It adds enormously to the interior. Here is the first great thing about the freshwater aquarium.
The second great thing, is, of course, the care. What do you do when you are angry? You go and observe the fish! I guess that wasn't your answer. What do you do when you are even more angry? You go feed the fish... I mean, have you ever considered the possibility that keeping fish can actually be a fun thing? Well, it is. The fish look really great (just look at the bettas, for example). Caring for the fish is probably more than a hobby.
But is it? Here is the third thing about freshwater aquariums - possible lack of care. You can give it hours and hours of time and it gladly takes it. But what if you're just not feeling like that... what if you're into having a holiday? No problem! Here is the thing. People have the idea that it takes an incredible amount of time to care for an aquarium. And while it can (and it should), it doesn't have to!
What do the minimum work requirements of maintain of a freshwater aquarium consist of? Feeding the fish which can be done very fast, occasionally changing the water which is again not so hard and key word here is occasionally and ensuring the temperature is good which is, so to say, not the hardest thing at all.
Let me mention the advantages of having a freshwater aquarium again - admiration of others, great pastime and interesting activity. Of course, that doesn't say it all. There is a lot more to freshwater aquarium but such a small article cannot have it all. In any case, should you be needing a pet, roll this thought in your head too, at least for a moment: "I could get a freshwater aquarium
Choosing pets, people often omit the possibility of keeping a freshwater aquarium and settle on more common pets like cats, dogs or ant colonies. If you are in a similar phase of wondering now too, let me add another option to your ration and introduce freshwater aquariums.
The first thing my guests would usually notice is... the mess in my room. The second, of course, is my freshwater aquarium. They don't always say that but I can see it in their facial expressions. Often they actually express their interest verbally. Freshwater aquarium looks really great, especially in dark. People notice that. They boast your aquarium. They brag your place. It adds enormously to the interior. Here is the first great thing about the freshwater aquarium.
The second great thing, is, of course, the care. What do you do when you are angry? You go and observe the fish! I guess that wasn't your answer. What do you do when you are even more angry? You go feed the fish... I mean, have you ever considered the possibility that keeping fish can actually be a fun thing? Well, it is. The fish look really great (just look at the bettas, for example). Caring for the fish is probably more than a hobby.
But is it? Here is the third thing about freshwater aquariums - possible lack of care. You can give it hours and hours of time and it gladly takes it. But what if you're just not feeling like that... what if you're into having a holiday? No problem! Here is the thing. People have the idea that it takes an incredible amount of time to care for an aquarium. And while it can (and it should), it doesn't have to!
What do the minimum work requirements of maintain of a freshwater aquarium consist of? Feeding the fish which can be done very fast, occasionally changing the water which is again not so hard and key word here is occasionally and ensuring the temperature is good which is, so to say, not the hardest thing at all.
Let me mention the advantages of having a freshwater aquarium again - admiration of others, great pastime and interesting activity. Of course, that doesn't say it all. There is a lot more to freshwater aquarium but such a small article cannot have it all. In any case, should you be needing a pet, roll this thought in your head too, at least for a moment: "I could get a freshwater aquarium
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